Plans and Preparations
John has been working hard this year to complete projects on Nirvana in preparation for a trip to Mexico. The largest project was the construction of a fiberglass hardtop, which was completed in June. Lots of other things were done to prepare the boat including buying a new dinghy, adding canvas to the new hardtop, and installing a life raft at the rail.
In the last weeks before departure from Santa Barbara on October 29th, we are provisioning with food and beverages to last us four weeks which is the duration of the trip down Baja to Cabo San Lucas, then up the Sea of Cortez to La Paz, where we will spend Thanksgiving.
Our departure from San Diego on November 3rd will be with the annual Baja Ha-Ha rally of 138 boats. Stops along the way include Turtle Bay, Bahia Santa Maria, Magdalena Bay, where whales frequent, and then Cabo San Lucas. The rally officially ends in Cabo San Lucas on November 15. We are only 1-2 nights in Cabo, then heading around the peninsula to La Paz with a few stops along the way, arriving one week later on November 20.
Prologue
After years of planning, the day of our departure is here. When John and I met, we promised ourselves that one day we’d buy a sailboat and venture to exotic destinations, following his family’s passion for cruising. As newlyweds, we purchased and faithfully cruised s/v Cherokee through the Channel Islands, raising our sons, Morgan and Dylan, to embrace the life and making our annual migration to Catalina Island. Our sons grew up on Cherokee, and cruising became their passion, causing us to need a larger vessel. We call those “happy troubles.”
John had long admired the Taswell All Season 49’, though most were available only in Europe. In 2019, having recently sold Cherokee, we located and purchased our boat in Fort Pierce, Florida, and trucked her home to Oxnard, where she spent many months hauled out sustaining refits. This project provided John and Dylan with a much-needed break from Covid Zoom calls for work and school. It was a magical time that enabled them to get Nirvana “ship shape,” provided hands-on training for Dylan, and created a bond between father and son that will last a lifetime. Though in school at SDSU, Morgan also assisted remotely with projects, helping to design tank replacements and assisting with other tasks.
With a substantial number of refits and upgrades in place, Nirvana headed back to her new home in Santa Barbara in March 2020. Our family truly felt like she was ours, and we couldn’t imagine life without her. Together, we learned how to cruise her and spent many happy days on the water with family and friends.
Of course, John was not finished with the upgrades. Though Nirvana was a huge improvement from Cherokee, John had bigger plans for our new boat. Knowing that it took us 25 years to upgrade Cherokee, we decided that at this stage in our lives, we needed to move more quickly. And we did. The task was daunting, but when John sets his mind to something, it gets done! Bow thruster, hard dodger, new countertops, underwater lights, washing machine/dryer, ice maker, Starlink, and more were installed.
With the boat shipshape and all our paperwork in order, we are excited to take on this adventure. Join us for our journey!
Day 1 – Wednesday, October 29, 2025
Last night, our family met for a pleasant dinner at Gracie’s, a new restaurant at the harbor. It was our first time dining there, and it was delish! We set the plan in motion that John, Dylan, and I would depart on Nirvana, while Morgan would wrap up things in SB and take the train to San Diego to join us a few days later.
We awoke to a beautiful day in SB Harbor. The sky shone with deep crimson and gold hues, the seas were calm, and a monstrous cruise ship basked in the sunlight. Our journey to Avalon was easy and much warmer than I remembered from our summer trips. We were entertained by distant whales and friendly dolphins who danced playfully. Having recently completed a digital photography class, Dylan applied his new skills, capturing the artistic side of our journey. I received new Apple headphones, a surprise from the “Sailing Santa,” which helped buffer the engine sound while resting. We gratefully snacked on delicious treats gifted by caring friends, and there was a bit of napping as well.
Nirvana charged diligently to her destination, reaching 9 kts at some points and arriving in Avalon at 6 pm, one hour earlier than predicted! Once secure on our friends’ mooring, we popped open another gift — champagne — and celebrated the arrival at the first leg of our journey. We enjoyed dinner at the Lobster Trap, our Avalon favorite, and celebrated with the locals as a fisherman delivered 100 lbs. of live lobster! We headed to bed early, grateful for a perfect first day.
Day 2 – Thursday, October 30, 2025
There is something magical about waking up to the view of the Catalina Island Casino, lit up in all its glory. Before the tower bells could ring, the sun meekly inched her way up, and Dylan treated us to a spicy egg-and-bacon breakfast. Soon we dropped the lines and headed into the glowing sun — a brightness unlike anything we could remember. Once again, the air felt unusually warm. With tranquil seas and a voraciously hungry pod of dolphins on the horizon, Nirvana raced along like a thoroughbred while we waved a distant hello to a couple of fellow BajaHa-Ha boats heading south as well. Dylan treated me to a special gift — one of his exceptional lattes.
At around 9 am, we discovered that our Starlink was disconnected. We heard this occurs at the 12-mile range from land, but we mistakenly thought we could use other means to reconnect. John, our senior engineer, began troubleshooting and resolved the situation within 30 minutes. It seems there is a learning curve with most things these days!
A few hours later, suddenly our engine began to rev down. With terror, we looked at each other until John shared that he had planned to run one of the fuel tanks dry to determine the exact fuel capacity of Nirvana. He switched the tank, and all was well — for a second — before the engine revved down again. Now we were worried! A quick check revealed that he had not actually switched the tanks. A flip of the dial, and we were on our way once more.
Entering San Diego Harbor was a bit like approaching a field of landmines. About 1.5 miles off the harbor entrance, fishermen are allowed to leave traps. We wove in and around them and giant bull kelp while slowly but surely a thick fog enveloped us. Using the radar and our (not so) keen eyesight, we navigated cautiously into the harbor entrance, screaming, “Red buoy, 1 o’clock!” as soon as one came into vision. A small fishing boat trailed us closely, apparently confident that we were his best bet for a safe entrance. It was eerie and scary, but we pressed on until the harbor finally opened into view. Yikes!
We fueled up, then headed into our slip at Kona Kai Marina. We were impressed by the number of boats in SD Harbor — it’s immense! After taking care of some chores, Colleen arrived, and we enjoyed a well-earned dinner at the San Diego YC.
Day 3 – Friday, October 31, 2025
In the morning, John and I took a walk to familiarize ourselves with the harbor. We were somewhat disappointed by the advertised amenities supposedly included with our pricey slip. Following a frustrating process, we finally got our key fobs working, then took the dinghy and walked to West Marine to purchase some necessary items. It was one of the largest stores we had ever seen! We also explored fun places to celebrate Halloween.
In the afternoon, I decorated a bit, and we dressed up in non-committal costumes and played festive Halloween music. Colleen joined us, dressed as a hot dog. We sipped cocktails on Nirvana, then walked over to the Brigantine Seafood and Oyster Bar, where we were well cared for by an entertaining waiter. After dinner, we dinghied over to the USS Midway for an eight-mile tour. It was very quiet, and we were able to drive close to the ship — an exciting experience.
Day 4 – Saturday, November 1, 2025
Dylan and Colleen enjoyed brunch at her dorm at USD, so John and I headed to SDYC for a Bloody Mary (just okay). Today was shopping day. Colleen let us borrow her car, so we made runs to Trader Joe’s and Ralphs for a few missing provisions. San Diego feels immense compared to our little hometown of Santa Barbara. John and I enjoyed some pool and jacuzzi time. We returned to the quiet of Nirvana and dined on chili on the boat.
Day 5 – Sunday, November 2, 2025
We drove to the Opening Meeting for the BajaHa-Ha at West Marine, where we met fellow cruisers and received swag bags and instructions for the cruise. We then ran more errands (CVS and Home Depot), headed back to Nirvana, where Morgan joined us. We prepped for the BajaHa-Ha Opening BBQ by throwing on our “costumes” — more like team clothing (La Vida es Nirvana shirts and happy face trucker hats). Colleen repurposed her hot dog costume, making our group look more festive. We gobbled down some burgers, admired creative costumes, sauntered around the booths, then headed back to the boat for a quiet afternoon.
There always seem to be surprises on a boat — it comes with the territory. Later, we discovered that our brand-new foul-weather gear was stored in a locker we thought had a sewage leak! Fortunately, it was only stagnant water, so we averted disaster, cleaned the gear, and took a deep sigh of relief. The five of us enjoyed another wonderful dinner at SDYC and said goodbye to Colleen until December.
Day 6 – Monday, November 3, 2025
San Diego Departure
Today was the big day we had anticipated — the BajaHa-Ha Start! Our assigned group, the Desperados, was instructed to line up at 9:30 am, then join the fleet of about 100 boats at 10 am for a parade at the harbor entrance.
Soon we were out of the harbor, heading down the coast and anticipating crossing the Mexican border. We admired Isla Coronado from afar and reveled at the expansive Rosarito Beach from the port side. Having visited Rosarito as a child and teenager, I observed that even from afar, it has evolved from a quaint beach town into a bustling city with high-rises.
It was another warm day. The seas were calm, and the wind was almost non-existent as we motored down the coast. A few distant boats were traveling parallel to us, and very little wildlife aside from birds. We noticed a couple of bait balls here and there, but the birds were more successful than we were.
As the brilliant, fire-infused sun sank into the sea, I began preparations for happy hour and dinner. With a full moon beginning to glow and no more sunlight, we savored a meat-and-cheese platter in the cockpit, illuminated by red lights — creating a Vegas nightclub vibe. For dinner, I served chicken pesto pasta with sundried tomatoes and pine nuts, a family favorite. I prepared most of the dish in advance, but still found making the salad, boiling the pasta, and heating the chicken challenging while underway. One casualty was a broken bowl, which I knocked over. Nevertheless, our hungry cruisers gobbled down the meal, and we enjoyed a Trader Joe’s panna cotta for dessert — a victory for our first dinner underway.
Following careful consideration, we determined that one person on a two-hour shift would work best for night watches. John would take 8–10 pm, I would follow from 10–12 pm, Morgan from 12–2 am, and Dylan from 2–4 am. Our navigational equipment is excellent, which is reassuring while sitting alone in the cockpit surrounded by dark seas and skies. We are in the company of five other Ha-Ha boats following the same course within a two-mile radius. The mainsail thrashed in disappointment at the lack of wind, but we kept it up to stabilize our ride.
Day 7 – Tuesday, November 4, 2025
Las Islas de San Bonito
My first watch began at 7 am. It was scheduled for 6 am, but my kind husband allowed me an extra hour of coveted rest. Day shifts are four hours to allow everyone to rest as much as possible. The chart says that we are at Las Islas de San Bonito; however, currently there are no islands in sight. I felt fortunate to be greeted by a dramatic sunrise reminiscent of the cover of a Boston album, which brought to mind the song “More Than a Feeling”. A few Ha-Ha companions remain on the radar: Conejo Blu, Nauti Miss, Mykonos, and s/v Vela. The seas are calm, the wind is light, and the sun is graciously warming this new day.
Morgan cooked breakfast for everyone, a welcome treat. Food provides comfort and entertainment during long crossings. At 11 am, John announced that he needed to shut down the engine to check the oil. It was the first time in 24 hours that we didn’t hear the constant roar. However, within minutes, John assessed that we had used 1 quart of oil, the engine thundered once again, and our journey continued.
Water temp is 69 degrees, air temp is 85 degrees, and there is little wind. Morgan is studying Japanese, and Dylan is determined to catch fish today.
Apparently, today is “discover what you are missing day”. So far, we have misplaced 2 tri-tips and the typhoid medication we began taking two days ago. I am hoping the meat is not a repeat of our 1995 Missing Chicken Breast Mystery on Cherokee when, after thoroughly cleaning the bilge, the engine, and pretty much every area to identify/remove a terrible 2-week stench, ultimately John located the missing chicken in a locker behind our dining settee.
Most of the day was calm, but we did get an afternoon breeze and enjoyed sailing for an hour or so. Dylan had a few false alarm fish strikes, but nothing remarkable until sunset. Suddenly, we heard the words, “FISH ON” and the crew set into action. It turned out that both Dylan and Morgan’s poles had fish on the line – but also the lines were crossed! Morgan released a bit of line, hoping to detangle, but lost his fish. The focus went to Dylan’s pole, and the fight ensued as Morgan and Dylan fought the fish for about 20 minutes. At last, Dylan brought the wahoo in close enough, and John gaffed it like a pro! We cleared the back deck where the boys placed the 56” fish on the deck and filleted it perfectly. Since dinner was already on the stove, we stored the meat in the freezer, anticipating many delicious meals to come. Feeling proud and excited, we enjoyed some snacks, then dined on one of my pre-made frozen meals: coconut chicken with lime and cilantro, served with rice.
The night watch was a bit more exciting this evening. With a full moon above us, the seas became chunkier by the hour. Following the same path as a few other BajaHa-Ha boats, this evening we ran into some new vessels such as the USAV Hobkirk (Military Ops) and the expansive Carnival Radiance.
Day 8 – Wednesday, November 5, 2025
Morning arrives early at sea since one of us is on watch at all times. By 3 am, we were sloshing around vigorously, making this passage uncomfortable. John and Dylan changed our sails to a new direction to create a more comfortable ride, but Mother Nature had other plans. For safety, we doubled up our watch, so John and I stayed up together. At one point, we saw a strange boat (or something with a bright light) about 5 miles away, but it had no AIS signature, so we were unable to ID it. This was a bit disconcerting, but fortunately, it remained in the same spot, so we passed by without incident. Our next challenge occurred with Morgan’s watch at 4 pm. John attempted to switch the diesel tank over to the second tank, yet once again, there was air in the lines, and the RPMs lowered significantly, so we were forced to add fuel to our original tank. This remedy worked temporarily, but John will need to troubleshoot the issue when we are at anchor.
Our ETA at Turtle Bay was 10 am, and despite some significant sea surges, the ride was calmer; we enjoyed the view of Isla de Navidad off our port and forged south to our destination.
Turtle Bay’s entrance is impressive – the bay is expansive, capped by a small peninsula/island on one side and embraced by edgy cliffs on the other. As birds show off their flight formations and sea lions curiously inspect your arrival, the modest little town presents itself, welcoming nautical visitors. After selecting our anchoring spot (there were many choices since only 6 boats were anchored), Dylan prepared sashimi, and we devoured an early, tasty lunch. Engine silence was a welcome addition to our morning. Local panga drivers passed by, checking to see if we wanted to purchase fuel or other necessities.
Next on John’s agenda was boat maintenance. The first project was to repair a leak in the forward head, which he quickly tackled. The second repair, the fuel pump, proved to be more challenging and a lot messier. Since the floorboards needed to be opened, the boys collected their fishing gear and boarded the dinghy for a journey of exploration.
Tonight there was a supermoon known as a Beaver Moon, a full moon at the closest point to the Earth in its orbit. As Dylan served up wahoo sashimi, we admired the biggest, brightest moon of 2025. Appetizers were followed by wahoo ceviche and fish tacos, reminiscent of Bubba Gump’s Shrimp from the movie Forest Gump.
Day 9 – Thursday, November 6, 2025
We awoke this morning in our glassy cove surrounded by more than 100 new Ha-Ha boats, a big departure from the cozy group we started with! A good portion of the fleet arrived in the night following a tough day at sea. Some approached too close to Cedros Island, encountering massive kelp beds and getting tangled. Others further out met their battle with winds of 20-30 knots – sails were damaged, a Starlink blew into the ocean, and there were other issues such as a faulty transmission, radio issues, hydraulic fluid, and broken eyeglasses. Each morning the fleet joins on a radio call with Richard Spindler, the Poohbah, sharing victories and resolving issues, with members generously assisting one another. It’s similar to cruising with our SBYC fleet but on a much larger scale.
Wishing to explore the town a bit, we hailed a panga escort for $3/person. The pier at Turtle Bay is dilapidated and somewhat treacherous, making a panga arrival preferable. You can arrive by dinghy, but it involves climbing straight up a rickety wooden ladder. A beach landing is also an option with groups of children eager to greet and “assist” dinghy arrivals for a small tip. I will clarify that most of the kids are small, unskilled, and provide more entertainment than assistance.
Throughout the day, children run about smiling and offering assistance, but causing one to wonder if they attend the schools we passed on our walkabout. We learned that the BajaHa-Ha cruise is a virtual holiday for this little town, so they close the schools. It was also reported that this fishing community earns half their annual income from our short stay, so the cruisers are mindful of being generous for the services the locals provide.
Strolling on the main drag of the city is eye-opening and provides a glimpse into the simplicity, poverty, quaintness, and beauty of this tiny fishing town. Dust coats everything, and broken windows abound as you pass a disabled washing machine on a porch (the laundromat). There is a sports bar run by a lively gal who speaks English and offers a dance party with your meal. The small grocery store is well stocked (for its size), even offering Kirkland products. The Pemex gas station offers fuel slightly cheaper than El Gordo, the business on the pier, but we assessed the actual savings, given that you must lug the jugs of fuel back to your boat.
Hot and thirsty, we followed suit with other cruisers and ordered beers at the beach bar/restaurant while absorbing the scenery and admiring the local color. We nibbled tasty carne asada tacos and socialized with fellow cruisers. Later, John, Morgan, and I returned to the beach where Morgan competed in a lively beach volleyball game. Dylan opted to go fishing once again and caught a good-sized calico. Unfortunately, while cleaning the fish, the fillet knife ended up in his left foot. The wound wasn’t too severe, so John got him wrapped up.
Initially, we planned to dine onshore; however, visiting the bathroom of our restaurant of choice (with no running water), detoured our decision, so we headed back to Nirvana for Mama TT’s homemade chili. It was another great day, and we slept peacefully on the glassy bay.
Day 10 – Friday, November 7, 2025
We began our day with the usual chores- running the generator to recharge power and make water and some light cleaning. We even tested out our new washer/dryer which is an energy consumer but handy for small loads. Morgan and Dylan did some morning fishing while John assisted fellow cruisers by supplying parts and guidance. Later we rode a panga to shore and tried lunch at the local sports bar, an excellent decision. Diana and her brother Herman were very attentive, the food was exceptional, and best of all, the bathrooms had running water and were clean!
Following lunch, we located the baseball field where the annual Cruisers vs. Locals baseball game was scheduled. The town has a substantial stadium, and the event was well attended by all. The first part of the game involved local children eagerly lined up to bat, and it was endearing to see 4-year-olds muster up their courage. Of course, they always made it to base! Later, the teenagers competed against the Cruisers, showing our group how the game is really played. At the end of the game, the BajaHa-Ha Cruisers donated an assortment of equipment to the local children, always making an effort to give back to this community that embraces us so kindly. Morgan played baseball while I chatted with some little girls donning Indians jerseys, and soon they became his cheerleaders.
It is common for local children to offer to provide services for $1, such as helping people with small tasks; however, others just say, “Give me a dollar,” which is unfortunate. Nevertheless, the locals seem content with life in Bahia Tortugas. They are friendly, helpful, and welcoming to their visitors. Our favorite taxi/panga driver/ATV rental guy named Jesus (and goes by “GetYa”) shared with Morgan that he is very pleased with his life. He fishes, enjoys the beach, and hangs out. Life is simple, and he likes it that way. A good reminder for us all.
Following the baseball game, we returned to Nirvana. Morgan and Dylan took off for another fishing adventure while John and I relaxed a bit. Upon their return, the boys prepared an amazing and very fresh fish taco dinner with the Calico they caught. We cleaned up and then headed to a neighboring catamaran, Nauti Girl, for an impromptu party. Morgan brought his guitar, providing welcome live entertainment for our fellow Cruisers. Slowly, we are meeting people in the group. We definitely are an eclectic mix of characters, hailing from a variety of backgrounds and experiences, which keeps things interesting!
Day 11 – Saturday, November 8, 2025
Today is the scheduled BajaHa-Ha Cruiser beach party. In the morning, we hung out onboard taking care of odds and ends and admiring the dolphins and seals who playfully cruised by Nirvana. John installed wheels on our dinghy, so we felt confident taking it to the beach versus hiring a panga taxi. With Dylan’s foot still injured, we wrapped a trash bag around his foot and sealed it with duct tape. We arrived at the beach and, thanks to the manly muscle power of our crew, were able to haul a very heavy dinghy/engine onshore.
The beach was calm, warm, and a light breeze kept us comfortable. Various concession stands were set up by the Ha-Ha leaders and the local merchants. There were a few bars as well as vendors selling a variety of tacos (fish, shrimp, and even octopus), tamales, and handmade jewelry (John bought a fossil shark tooth necklace). Additionally, locals offered horse rides, ATV treks, and kayak rentals for $20. Morgan and Dylan opted for the ATV rental and sped off on a memorable cruise down the long, breathtaking beachfront.
Meanwhile, the Ha-Ha leaders sold hot dogs with the proceeds going to the town children and set up a volleyball net, which Morgan enjoyed. A lively “tug-of-war” competition of women versus men was held, and the women were victorious (the usual outcome). On a side note, Morgan was instructed that he could not participate in the competition, which explains the results. Ha, ha, ha! We basked in the serenity of the beachfront, swapped tales with fellow cruisers, and continued to be grateful for this amazing journey and the opportunity to share it as a family.
Having been given a live lobster demonstration by Diana at the Sports Bar on Friday, we were eager to order lobster for dinner tonight. We radioed the panga taxi only to learn that none of them were running. Most had worked all afternoon escorting cruisers to and from the beach party, so they were done for the day. Instead, we lowered the dinghy and cautiously took our chances tying up at the pier. This worked well since panga traffic was minimal. In the distance, we heard the thumping music from local parties and worried that perhaps the entire town might be closed down. Thankfully, the Sports Bar was still open, empty, and Herman was eager to serve up four Puerto Nuevo lobster dinners for $32 a head. It was everything we anticipated and more - the perfect ending for our final night in the sweet town of Bahia Tortugas.
Day 12 - Sunday, November 9, 2025
The scheduled departure time for the BajaHa-Ha fleet to leave Bahia Tortugas for Bahia Santa Maria was 9 am. Following the morning all-call with the Poohbah at 8 am, most of the fleet pulled anchor and headed out of the bay. Initially, the sky was overcast as the sun groggily peeked through billowy clouds and the fleet eloquently paraded toward its southern journey. A couple of panga guys sped by, waving, laughing, and indicating that we needed to ride our horse faster—a warmhearted farewell from the locals. Depending on wind and sea conditions, we expect this leg of the journey, 227 miles, to take 30 hours, giving us a 1 pm arrival on Monday. Traveling south, we observed the water temperature increasing to 76 degrees.
On the radio we heard reports that other cruisers were catching fish, but so far, we only hooked a couple of dogfish that we released. An exciting moment came when a couple of thieving seals decided to chase after a fish on Dylan’s line. Fortunately, a determined Dylan outwitted his competitors. Unfortunately, he reeled in another dogfish. Finally, just before the sunset, Dylan’s pole went off, and triumphantly he reeled in a gorgeous 30 lb. dorado. The fish put up a good fight as Morgan attempted to gaff it. The boys cleaned the prize (and the bloody deck) while I heated dinner.
The evening waters were sloshy with following winds of 20 knots on the stern. So, rather than preparing the fresh fish, we opted to dine on bell peppers stuffed with turkey burger and rice; a meal I prepared and froze before departure. We cleaned up, then hunkered down, preparing for similar overnight conditions.
Day 13 – Monday, November 10, 2025
As predicted, Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride was not over yet. With similar conditions, we foraged ahead, wind on the stern and waves hitting us from side to side. This caused the sail to swing abruptly from side to side, creating a thunderous and unsettling crash. At midnight, John changed our heading, a welcome decision that would lengthen our trip a little but provide more comfort. On a happier note, my new friends Luna and Miss Sun did not disappoint, gracing the skies with their dramatic entrances and providing the highlight of night and early morning watch.
We relished another warm day on the water, and fishing provided good entertainment. Although we have Starlink, we must pay an extra fee for priority service when we are more than 12 miles offshore. Suddenly, we hooked a tuna! Morgan was excited to bring in our first yellowtail, while John, our expert gaffer, made sure it made it on board. We celebrated the sashimi in our future.
Our approach to Bahia Santa Maria was accented with plenty of insanity. First, on the radio, another boat reported that they had spotted a pod of whales, as well as lobster pots, in the waters off the entrance of the bay. While conducting a careful watch for both, suddenly both fishing lines went off. Morgan and Dylan ran to the reels while John stood by, and I continued to keep a watchful eye. Our catch was two good-sized bonitas, which put up a good fight but were thrown back to swim for another day. We did not see any whales or lobster pots; however, shimmering flying fish danced at Nirvana’s bow.
Entering the bay, we were overwhelmed by the immense size – 8 miles of expansive beaches and dramatic hillsides. Near the anchorage, tiny colorful buildings dotted the arid hillside. Like Bahia Tortugas, Bahia Santa Maria is a small fishing community, but much less developed.
The BajaHa-Ha description of Bahia Santa Maria is as follows:
“The bay is natural and pristine. No discos, no stores, no restaurants, no telephones, no lights, and only a few weather-beaten fishermen who live in boxes on the banks of the mangroves inside the bar.
The views from the water are great, but from the peaks on the north, the views are spectacular. To the south, the rest of the huge bay could provide protection from the prevailing northwesterlies for 1,000 boats; to the east, the winding mangroves and ever-changing tidal marshes, and the sand dunes. And in the distance, the blue waters of Mag Bay.”
After a 31-hour trip, we joined 8 other boats, dropped anchor, then explored a bit in the dinghy. Yellowfin tuna was on the menu for dinner. Chefs Morgan and Dylan prepared a delectable feast, followed by a spectacular star show that lit up the night. Our new anchorage provided a calm bed as we gratefully drifted off to well-earned slumber.
Day 14 – Tuesday, November 11, 2025
The highlights of today included our first swim in the 76-degree water. This bay seems much cleaner than Bahia Tortuga, so we eagerly dove in. Morgan took the paddleboard to the point where a group of surfers from the fleet were catching waves. It was a 2-mile paddle (each way), quite the workout. The rest of us got in the dinghy and studied the approach to go ashore. A line of uninterrupted surf breaks off the shoreline, guarding the little town from unadventurous visitors. Stories shared include cruisers whose boats were swamped by the waves, causing bodily harm and engine damage. Neither consequence sounds appealing. We timed wave sets and watched in awe as the locals in pangas deftly made their entrances. There is an estuary with mangroves and small fishing camps that we hope to explore. Reluctantly, we decided to postpone this adventure to tomorrow morning. At sunset , Morgan and Dylan played music on the stern, and then we enjoyed another great meal together.
Day 15 – Wednesday, November 12, 2025
Today’s “To Do” list involved the critical process of checking in with Mexican immigration. The officers travelled from La Paz to meet with the BajaHa-Ha Fleet and admit all 120 boats into the country. This chore thwarted our plans of early morning mangrove exploration; instead, we hung out charging batteries and making water. By the way, having a water maker on your boat is a game-changer. We’ve heard reports from other cruisers asking for water donations, and we are still 3 days from Cabo, where they can refill their tanks.
By 11 am we completed our immigration check-in and mustered up the courage to ride the tides in and explore the mangroves. Outside the break, we sat in the dinghy, patiently observing the wave action and calculating the best weight distribution. We waited for a lull, took a deep breath, and Dylan plowed in to shore, following wave after wave until suddenly we found ourselves safely beyond the break. It was exciting, but knowing that the return ride would prove to be even more exhilarating, we held our celebration.
We navigated past the main part of the little town and through shallow depths, gliding our way into the narrow entrance of the mangroves. There is enough space for two pangas to pass. Egrets, herons, and other shorebirds shyly peek out from the vines while silvery fish dart in and out of sight below the dinghy. Eventually, the calm of nature is interrupted by an encampment where fishermen repair their equipment, tend to their catch, and rest after long days of fishing. As we floated by, a few small children played in the sand and the locals offered us a kind wave. John and his family visited here when he was 7 years old and he noted that not much has changed.
As predicted, our trip back to Nirvana was more formidable than our journey to shore. Again, we timed the set of waves, Dylan powered up, and we fiercely forged ahead, this time with waves threatening to break over the bow – a few did, and we got wet! The engine caught air a few times as we pounded through the waves, but Dylan maneuvered with finesse, escorting us safely past the surf line. Morgan’s iWatch detected that his heart rate was elevated and thought he was working out. As you can imagine, our safe passage was followed by great celebration, and Morgan shared the quote, “With great risk comes great reward.”
At noon the BajaHa-Ha fleet hosted a party onshore. Having successfully conquered the surfline challenge, we opted for a panga taxi to shore. The party was staged on the cliffs overlooking the fleet of BajaHa-Ha boats. The best view in the house! Locals set up a bar and a kitchen offering delicious homemade Baja seafood tacos, salad, and rice. A band drove in from La Paz, creating a festive vibe and providing amazing entertainment. We chatted with fellow cruisers, danced a little, and soaked up the magic of another gorgeous day in this special place.
In the evening, we shared dinner with our new friends Mark and Tomo, from the sailboat MamaLu. Dylan and Colleen met them in San Diego Harbor when the prop on their boat was wrapped, and they were struggling to avoid a collision course with a cruise ship. Dylan towed them to safety, and soon we became fast friends. We savored the last of our tuna, with hopes there will be more in our future.
Day 16 – Thursday, November 13, 2025
The 6 am fleet call arrived much too early but compliantly we joined on the radio. This morning the fleet sets sail for Cabo, a 24-hour trip. As we departed the serene Bahia Santa Maria, a shroud of fog gently layered the morning sunrise. There was light wind, and it was somewhat rolly but eventually we had 10 knots of wind, enough to sail slowly. John is frustrated by our sail options, thinking it would have been beneficial to bring our spinnaker for downwind sailing.
In the morning, we caught a couple of good sized bonitas but tossed them back, holding out for the tastier tuna, dorado, or wahoo. Finally, just before noon, Dylan’s reel went off bringing in a very feisty 44” dorado. After a significant struggle, he and John got it onboard, securing yet another meal from the sea. There were more strikes but no significant catches the rest of the day, despite Morgan’s hopes of catching another tuna. We heard radio reports that there were turtle and whale sightings. Dylan spotted whale and by the time Morgan and I made it up top, we only saw it spout once then dive back down to the depths of its ocean playground.
At dusk the sea became rougher, so we pulled out another batch of my pre-made meals. Having consumed a lot of tacos, we dined on pasta with marinara meat sauce and salad, the last of our fresh vegetables. In addition to running out of such provisions, there was a more pressing concern, fuel. In Turtle Bay we filled supplemental jugs with diesel just in case the wind didn’t cooperate on our journey. With the wind behind us, a sloshy sea state, and no spinnaker, we were forced to run the engine more than we anticipated. John added the reserve jugs to the tank, then to conserve fuel, we slowed our speed, collectively hoping for the best as we ventured into another long night at sea, surfing the southbound waves. The air was uncomfortably hot and humid, hovering around 83 degrees; the first time I’ve stood night watch in shorts and a t-shirt. Meanwhile, tonight’s live entertainment consisted of a spectacular star show featuring the Milky Way, the Little and Big Dipper, and more constellations than imaginable. Likely feeling upstaged by the star show, Luna failed to make her nightly appearance until Morgan took watch at 1 pm. John was up half the night tending to the many issues on the boat – adjusting sails, keeping an eye on the crazy seas and the gusty 20 knot winds. At times Nirvana rode waves and reached speeds of up to 10 knots. John was also monitoring the alternator because it wasn’t charging the batteries. He’s an amazing captain and able to resolve just about any issue we have!
Day 17 – Friday, November 14, 2025
Morning brought little relief from the confused sea conditions, and the captain and crew were feeling fatigued. There were more boats around us than usual, so we were continuously monitoring their locations, trying to keep a distance of at least 1 ½ miles from one another. Observing a glorious sunrise near the point of our destination provided relief, comfort, and exhilaration.
We were welcomed to Cabo by the famous arch as well as a cluster of buzzing tourist boats and two huge cruise ships, foreshadowing the insanity to come. Since we assumed our engine was running on fumes, our first stop was the fuel dock. Navigating in the harbor was mayhem. It appears there is no enforced speed limit; boats pass one another and cut each other off without concern for collision. Fortunately, Dylan was at the helm and decided that the best plan was to “drive like a local”, a technique that worked very well. Tony at the dock was incredibly helpful, getting us fueled up and disposing of 8 bags of trash. After calculating how much diesel we purchased, John determined that we had more fuel than he thought, so the worry was for naught.
We cruised over to Hotel Row, the recommended location for anchoring, dropped the bow hook, joining a group of other anchored HaHa boats. The Office, one of our favorite Cabo restaurants, was located directly on the beach in front of us, so we hailed a panga taxi and quickly found ourselves relaxing on the sand with delicious beverages and breakfast. We felt proud of ourselves and toasted our success.
It is VERY hot here – 90-degree air temperature, and 82-degree water temperature. Just to be clear, we are not complaining about this, especially since there are brutal storms slamming Santa Barbara. Swimming is refreshing, and the water is clear, but we stay close to Nirvana to avoid being run over by fanatical pangas, powerboats, and jet skis.
In the evening, we headed to Baja Cantina to reunite with the BajaHa-Ha group. We sat with Chris Jester; a cruiser we met in Turtle Bay, and enjoyed a tasty meal. Next, we walked to Squid Row Nightclub for the Ha-Ha “Cheated Death” party, which provided excellent people watching and insanely loud music – Cabo style. Every establishment perceives that tourists seek loud music, whistle blowing, and continuous microphone chatter. John and I lasted about an hour, then ventured back to Nirvana for some much-needed sleep.
Day 18 – Saturday, November 15, 2025
We slept in a little this morning – a luxury we had not enjoyed for many days. Our first chore was laundry, which dries at lightning speed in this heat. Next, we ordered an Uber and headed to Costco (with an ocean view) for provisioning. We purchased tons of supplies and somehow managed to get everything loaded into the dinghy and back to the boat in under 1 ½ hours. For lunch, we discovered a great restaurant called Las Guacamayas and savored tasty, fresh fruit margaritas, guacamole, and tacos.
Returning to the boat, we prepared for our friends from Sigada (Bruce, Garred, Kat, and Erica) to join us for happy hour on Nirvana. Dylan wowed our guests with his legendary espresso martinis, and we enjoyed their company. Later, the final event of the BajaHa-Ha, the awards ceremony, was held at the Mango Deck Restaurant, located directly in front of our boat. The organizers called up each division of sailors (we were the Desperados), and I am pretty certain that everyone placed third or better. We were grateful to have completed the rally. John, Dylan, and I returned to The Office for dinner and had another spectacular meal. As a fellow cruiser stated, “It’s nice to have something other than boat food.” We finished the evening reuniting with the Sigada crew on Nirvana and enjoyed some late-night fun.
Day 19 – Sunday, November 16, 2025
Since it was our final day in Cabo, we decided it was time to head over and check out the famous Cabo Arch. It was good to do our sightseeing in the morning before the masses of tourists arrived in pangas, sporting their industrial orange life vests. Indeed, the arch is majestic, making it the crown jewel of Cabo’s harbor.
Feeling the effects of the previous night, we walked groggily into town searching for a restaurant John had seen reviewed. It turned out to be quite far, and regretfully we trudged through the heat only to find the menu to be unappealing. Remembering our delicious meal the day prior, we hiked back to Las Guacamayas, joined up with Mark and Tomo (from MaMaLu), and gratefully enjoyed lunch.
Today Morgan was scheduled to depart from Cabo and return to work. So, following lunch, John shuttled him to the dinghy dock, and he took an Uber. That afternoon, we napped, and John spent time troubleshooting an alternator/regulator issue that began on our trip from Bahia Santa Maria. It was a frustrating job, but his repair seemed to work.
Collectively, we chose to dine on something other than Mexican food. We were chip, salsa, and taco’ed out, so we selected El Peregrino, a lovely little place that served international cuisine. Our server, Romeo, served up a fabulous surf and turf dinner - the highlight was bacon-wrapped, stuffed shrimp. We took home doggy bags – lunch for our 6-hour passage tomorrow!
Day 20 - Monday, November 17, 2025
We awoke at 6 am in preparation for our passage to Los Frailes (The Monks), another large anchorage offering a pristine beach, good snorkeling, abundant marine life, and fishing. As the sunrise welcomed us, we bid farewell to the natural beauty and rowdy beach life – the dichotomy that is Cabo San Lucas.
Initially, there was no wind, so we motored. Overwhelmed by the early morning heat, we installed our new sunshades. A bathing suit and a water squirt bottle helped drop the temperature a bit but it’s hot and humid. John spied a whale on our tranquil journey.
Time passed and soon the winds and seas picked up with headwinds that crashed waves over the boat, creating good onboard entertainment. Nirvana bravely charged through the waves at 8 knots, breaking through each one with greater enthusiasm. Her spectators were impressed. Then, about an hour from our destination, I went below to make some popcorn. By chance, I happened to check the cabins and discovered that the bunk room floor was sloshing with water. It turns out that when we checked the hatches, that one was not completely locked down. Needless to say, it was an unfortunate oversight. Both beds and linens were thoroughly soaked, creating additional boat chores in our future.
We motor-sailed into Bahía Los Frailes anchorage alongside our SB boat neighbors, Ed and Martha Kaufman, and joined about 8 other boats. The expansive turquoise bay is embraced by an expansive sandy beach and crowned with green hillsides, very different flora from Turtle Bay, and indicative of the humidity we experience. Once anchored, we were immediately drawn to the water for a refreshing swim. We were impressed by the clarity of the water as we saw shells on the bottom and colorful fish swimming below. This wondrous preserve is known as Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park has one of North America’s oldest coral reefs, described by Jacques Cousteau as the “aquarium of the world”. There is exceptional marine biodiversity with sea turtles, sea lions, and colorful fish.
Despite our intense desire to explore our new watery abode, following our swim and some lunch, fatigue set in so we napped. We continue to struggle with acclimating to the heat and humidity, which is very unusual for us. Dylan flew his drone while John and I took a quick dinghy cruise and said hello to some fellow cruising friends. Dylan prepared his dorado for dinner, and by 8:30 am, everyone was ready for bed. Initially, we planned to spend one night here, but clearly that won’t be long enough to appreciate this beautiful, unspoiled treasure.
Day 21 – Tuesday, November 18, 2025
With no wind and high heat, sleeping is a challenge that is comforted by the amazing night sky. Last night the constellations showed off their vast, brilliant beauty – causing me to wish I could identify every one of them.
Dylan did some remote work while John and I took the stand-up paddleboards over to check out the coral preserve and the beach. The crystal water enabled us to observe many fish from the surface. Next, we walked along the beach and visited a sea turtle release area that appeared to have been abandoned at the moment. Seashells and colorful rocks, but thankfully no trash, littered the sand, and I even stumbled upon one treasured piece of green sea glass.
After lunch we geared up to snorkel in the marine preserve, located just off our boat. We anchored the dinghy outside the protected area then swam in to enjoy the show. Witnessing a healthy coral reef and a diverse variety of fish, I soon understood why Jacque Cousteau embraced this location. We regretted not bringing the Go-Pro on this dive as it would have been amazing to capture the beautiful fish we spied – large colorful parrot fish (in many colors), cowfish, needle fish, spotted pufferfish, Moorish idols, surgeonfish, damselfish – there are more than 300 types of fish on the reef!
Following our dive, we swam, attended to boat projects (including cleaning and addressing additional alternator/regulator issues), and relaxed for a bit. At sunset, we hopped in the dinghy and toured the vast shoreline of the bay, observing a fish camp, some beach campers, a villa rental ($7500 per person for 3 nights), and a small collection of elaborate beachfront homes. Dylan took some spectacular drone footage of the bay. Dinner was simple, my premade coconut-cilantro chicken dish, garden salad, and tiramisu. Again, we headed to bed early, in preparation for the next day’s journey to Bahía Los Muertos (aka Bahía del los Sueños).
Day 22 – Tuesday, November 19, 2025
Following another balmy and sleepless night, at 6 am we awoke to a glorious sunrise and departed for our 5 ½ hour journey to Bahía Los Muertos (aka Bahía de los Sueños). There was no wind, so we didn’t bother hoisting the main sail until later in the day. We have heard that this leg of the trip can be rough, but once we passed Punta Arena, the sea was like glass. There was cloud coverage, and it was not as hot – a welcome change.
Like Bahía Los Frailes, Los Muertos is low-key and has a long expansive beach, clear water, a sandy bottom, and home to about 300 locals. Although still underdeveloped, there is a hotel/resort (Hotel Gran Sueño) at the north end and a palapa restaurant (Restaurant 1535) at the southern end of the bay.
The origin of name “Bahía Los Muertos” or Bay of the Dead seems to vary. One tale indicates that mutinous pirates were buried here. There is also a tale of a fierce battle on the beach. Another story hails back to 1862 when the El Triunfo mining company struck silver and gold, and it became a home base for 10,000 miners from Mexico and the United States. El Triunfo buried six 2,000 lb. train car axles (or dead man anchors) to create moorings for inactive loading barges. The third, and more recent explanation is attributed to excavations that uncovered an ancient indigenous burial site. Subsequently, the development company renamed the location “Bahía de los Sueños”, Bay of Dreams, but it doesn’t seem to be helping their marketing. Viewing the vision map in the sales office, it appears they are not selling many homes for 1.8 million each. Nevertheless, it is a lovely little town, and we are eager to explore everything it has to offer.
We proceeded to shore, however, there was no place to tie up the dinghy. Identifying a small slice of sandy beach, we hauled the boat ashore and took a stroll down the long beach toward Restaurant 1835, named after the arrival of conquistador Hernán Cortés. We gazed at the 8 boats anchored in the bay while on the beach, vultures sensed our presence and cautiously picked at fish carcasses. We sipped cold beverages along with a few tourists who arrived by car. Waiting more than 20 minutes to place our order, we came to the realization that life moves slowly here – a good lesson to heed. Following happy hour on Nirvana with friends Mark and Tomo (MaMaLu), we all returned to the restaurant and enjoyed a memorable evening, punctuated by scrumptious cuisine, plenty of laughter, and a good dose of Japanese dialogue (that we couldn’t understand).
Returning to Nirvana, the weather changed, and we sensed an impending squall, the first we’ve experienced on this trip. John and Dylan secured the boat, while we watched hundreds of mid-sized fish (maybe bigeye trevally/jackfish?) circle Nirvana, simulating a dance party in our underwater lights. The overnight squall brought light winds, a bit of rain, and cooler temps (much to our relief).
