October 11, 2025
Plans and Preparations
John has been working hard this year to complete projects on Nirvana in preparation for a trip to Mexico. The largest project was the construction of a fiberglass hardtop, which was completed in June. Lots of other things were done to prepare the boat including buying a new dinghy, adding canvas to the new hardtop, and installing a life raft at the rail.
In the last weeks before departure from Santa Barbara on October 29th, we are provisioning with food and beverages to last us four weeks which is the duration of the trip down Baja to Cabo San Lucas, then up the Sea of Cortez to La Paz, where we will spend Thanksgiving.
Our departure from San Diego on November 3rd will be with the annual Baja Ha-Ha rally of 138 boats. Stops along the way include Turtle Bay, Bahia Santa Maria, Magdalena Bay, where whales frequent, and then Cabo San Lucas. The rally officially ends in Cabo San Lucas on November 15. We are only 1-2 nights in Cabo, then heading around the peninsula to La Paz with a few stops along the way, arriving one week later on November 20.
Prologue
After years of planning, the day of our departure is here. When John and I met, we promised ourselves that one day we’d buy a sailboat and venture to exotic destinations, following his family’s passion for cruising. As newlyweds, we purchased and faithfully cruised s/v Cherokee through the Channel Islands, raising our sons, Morgan and Dylan, to embrace the life and making our annual migration to Catalina Island. Our sons grew up on Cherokee, and cruising became their passion, causing us to need a larger vessel. We call those “happy troubles.”
John had long admired the Taswell All Season 49’, though most were available only in Europe. In 2019, having recently sold Cherokee, we located and purchased our boat in Fort Pierce, Florida, and trucked her home to Oxnard, where she spent many months hauled out sustaining refits. This project provided John and Dylan with a much-needed break from Covid Zoom calls for work and school. It was a magical time that enabled them to get Nirvana “ship shape,” provided hands-on training for Dylan, and created a bond between father and son that will last a lifetime. Though in school at SDSU, Morgan also assisted remotely with projects, helping to design tank replacements and assisting with other tasks.
With a substantial number of refits and upgrades in place, Nirvana headed back to her new home in Santa Barbara in March 2020. Our family truly felt like she was ours, and we couldn’t imagine life without her. Together, we learned how to cruise her and spent many happy days on the water with family and friends.
Of course, John was not finished with the upgrades. Though Nirvana was a huge improvement from Cherokee, John had bigger plans for our new boat. Knowing that it took us 25 years to upgrade Cherokee, we decided that at this stage in our lives, we needed to move more quickly. And we did. The task was daunting, but when John sets his mind to something, it gets done! Bow thruster, hard dodger, new countertops, underwater lights, washing machine/dryer, ice maker, Starlink, and more were installed.
With the boat shipshape and all our paperwork in order, we are excited to take on this adventure. Join us for our journey!
Day 1 - Wednesday, October 29, 2025
Departure
Last night, our family met for a pleasant dinner at Gracie’s, a new restaurant at the harbor. It was our first time dining there, and it was delish! We set the plan in motion that John, Dylan, and I would depart on Nirvana, while Morgan would wrap up things in SB and take the train to San Diego to join us a few days later.
We awoke to a beautiful day in SB Harbor. The sky shone with deep crimson and gold hues, the seas were calm, and a monstrous cruise ship basked in the sunlight. Our journey to Avalon was easy and much warmer than I remembered from our summer trips. We were entertained by distant whales and friendly dolphins who danced playfully. Having recently completed a digital photography class, Dylan applied his new skills, capturing the artistic side of our journey. I received new Apple headphones, a surprise from the “Sailing Santa,” which helped buffer the engine sound while resting. We gratefully snacked on delicious treats gifted by caring friends, and there was a bit of napping as well.
Nirvana charged diligently to her destination, reaching 9 kts at some points and arriving in Avalon at 6 pm, one hour earlier than predicted! Once secure on our friends’ mooring, we popped open another gift — champagne — and celebrated the arrival at the first leg of our journey. We enjoyed dinner at the Lobster Trap, our Avalon favorite, and celebrated with the locals as a fisherman delivered 100 lbs. of live lobster! We headed to bed early, grateful for a perfect first day.
Day 2 – Thursday, October 30, 2025
Catalina to San Diego
There is something magical about waking up to the view of the Catalina Island Casino, lit up in all its glory. Before the tower bells could ring, the sun meekly inched her way up, and Dylan treated us to a spicy egg-and-bacon breakfast. Soon we dropped the lines and headed into the glowing sun — a brightness unlike anything we could remember. Once again, the air felt unusually warm. With tranquil seas and a voraciously hungry pod of dolphins on the horizon, Nirvana raced along like a thoroughbred while we waved a distant hello to a couple of fellow BajaHa-Ha boats heading south as well. Dylan treated me to a special gift — one of his exceptional lattes.
At around 9 am, we discovered that our Starlink was disconnected. We heard this occurs at the 12-mile range from land, but we mistakenly thought we could use other means to reconnect. John, our senior engineer, began troubleshooting and resolved the situation within 30 minutes. It seems there is a learning curve with most things these days!
A few hours later, suddenly our engine began to rev down. With terror, we looked at each other until John shared that he had planned to run one of the fuel tanks dry to determine the exact fuel capacity of Nirvana. He switched the tank, and all was well — for a second — before the engine revved down again. Now we were worried! A quick check revealed that he had not actually switched the tanks. A flip of the dial, and we were on our way once more.
Entering San Diego Harbor was a bit like approaching a field of landmines. About 1.5 miles off the harbor entrance, fishermen are allowed to leave traps. We wove in and around them and giant bull kelp while slowly but surely a thick fog enveloped us. Using the radar and our (not so) keen eyesight, we navigated cautiously into the harbor entrance, screaming, “Red buoy, 1 o’clock!” as soon as one came into vision. A small fishing boat trailed us closely, apparently confident that we were his best bet for a safe entrance. It was eerie and scary, but we pressed on until the harbor finally opened into view. Yikes!
We fueled up, then headed into our slip at Kona Kai Marina. We were impressed by the number of boats in SD Harbor — it’s immense! After taking care of some chores, Colleen arrived, and we enjoyed a well-earned dinner at the San Diego YC.
Day 3 – Friday, October 31, 2025
Halloween
In the morning, John and I took a walk to familiarize ourselves with the harbor. We were somewhat disappointed by the advertised amenities supposedly included with our pricey slip. Following a frustrating process, we finally got our key fobs working, then took the dinghy and walked to West Marine to purchase some necessary items. It was one of the largest stores we had ever seen! We also explored fun places to celebrate Halloween.
In the afternoon, I decorated a bit, and we dressed up in non-committal costumes and played festive Halloween music. Colleen joined us, dressed as a hot dog. We sipped cocktails on Nirvana, then walked over to the Brigantine Seafood and Oyster Bar, where we were well cared for by an entertaining waiter. After dinner, we dinghied over to the USS Midway for an eight-mile tour. It was very quiet, and we were able to drive close to the ship — an exciting experience.
Day 4 – Saturday, November 1, 2025
San Diego
Dylan and Colleen enjoyed brunch at her dorm at USD, so John and I headed to SDYC for a Bloody Mary (just okay). Today was shopping day. Colleen let us borrow her car, so we made runs to Trader Joe’s and Ralphs for a few missing provisions. San Diego feels immense compared to our little hometown of Santa Barbara. John and I enjoyed some pool and jacuzzi time. We returned to the quiet of Nirvana and dined on chili on the boat.
Day 5 – Sunday, November 2, 2025
Baja Ha-Ha Party
We drove to the Opening Meeting for the Baja Ha-Ha at West Marine, where we met fellow cruisers and received swag bags and instructions for the cruise. We then ran more errands (CVS and Home Depot), headed back to Nirvana, where Morgan joined us. We prepped for the BajaHa-Ha Opening BBQ by throwing on our “costumes” — more like team clothing (La Vida es Nirvana shirts and happy face trucker hats). Colleen repurposed her hot dog costume, making our group look more festive. We gobbled down some burgers, admired creative costumes, sauntered around the booths, then headed back to the boat for a quiet afternoon.
There always seem to be surprises on a boat — it comes with the territory. Later, we discovered that our brand-new foul-weather gear was stored in a locker we thought had a sewage leak! Fortunately, it was only stagnant water, so we averted disaster, cleaned the gear, and took a deep sigh of relief. The five of us enjoyed another wonderful dinner at SDYC and said goodbye to Colleen until December.
Day 6 – Monday, November 3, 2025
San Diego Departure
Today was the big day we had anticipated — the BajaHa-Ha Start! Our assigned group, the Desperados, was instructed to line up at 9:30 am, then join the fleet of about 100 boats at 10 am for a parade at the harbor entrance.
Soon we were out of the harbor, heading down the coast and anticipating crossing the Mexican border. We admired Isla Coronado from afar and reveled at the expansive Rosarito Beach from the port side. Having visited Rosarito as a child and teenager, I observed that even from afar, it has evolved from a quaint beach town into a bustling city with high-rises.
It was another warm day. The seas were calm, and the wind was almost non-existent as we motored down the coast. A few distant boats were traveling parallel to us, and very little wildlife aside from birds. We noticed a couple of bait balls here and there, but the birds were more successful than we were.
As the brilliant, fire-infused sun sank into the sea, I began preparations for happy hour and dinner. With a full moon beginning to glow and no more sunlight, we savored a meat-and-cheese platter in the cockpit, illuminated by red lights — creating a Vegas nightclub vibe. For dinner, I served chicken pesto pasta with sundried tomatoes and pine nuts, a family favorite. I prepared most of the dish in advance, but still found making the salad, boiling the pasta, and heating the chicken challenging while underway. One casualty was a broken bowl, which I knocked over. Nevertheless, our hungry cruisers gobbled down the meal, and we enjoyed a Trader Joe’s panna cotta for dessert — a victory for our first dinner underway.
Following careful consideration, we determined that one person on a two-hour shift would work best for night watches. John would take 8–10 pm, I would follow from 10–12 pm, Morgan from 12–2 am, and Dylan from 2–4 am. Our navigational equipment is excellent, which is reassuring while sitting alone in the cockpit surrounded by dark seas and skies. We are in the company of five other Ha-Ha boats following the same course within a two-mile radius. The mainsail thrashed in disappointment at the lack of wind, but we kept it up to stabilize our ride.
Day 7 – Tuesday, November 4, 2025
Las Islas de San Bonito
My first watch began at 7 am. It was scheduled for 6 am, but my kind husband allowed me an extra hour of coveted rest. Day shifts are four hours to allow everyone to rest as much as possible. The chart says that we are at Las Islas de San Bonito; however, currently there are no islands in sight. I felt fortunate to be greeted by a dramatic sunrise reminiscent of the cover of a Boston album, which brought to mind the song “More Than a Feeling”. A few Ha-Ha companions remain on the radar: Conejo Blu, Nauti Miss, Mykonos, and s/v Vela. The seas are calm, the wind is light, and the sun is graciously warming this new day.
Morgan cooked breakfast for everyone, a welcome treat. Food provides comfort and entertainment during long crossings. At 11 am, John announced that he needed to shut down the engine to check the oil. It was the first time in 24 hours that we didn’t hear the constant roar. However, within minutes, John assessed that we had used 1 quart of oil, the engine thundered once again, and our journey continued.
Water temp is 69 degrees, air temp is 85 degrees, and there is little wind. Morgan is studying Japanese, and Dylan is determined to catch fish today.
Apparently, today is “discover what you are missing day”. So far, we have misplaced 2 tri-tips and the typhoid medication we began taking two days ago. I am hoping the meat is not a repeat of our 1995 Missing Chicken Breast Mystery on Cherokee when, after thoroughly cleaning the bilge, the engine, and pretty much every area to identify/remove a terrible 2-week stench, ultimately John located the missing chicken in a locker behind our dining settee.
Most of the day was calm, but we did get an afternoon breeze and enjoyed sailing for an hour or so. Dylan had a few false alarm fish strikes, but nothing remarkable until sunset. Suddenly, we heard the words, “FISH ON” and the crew set into action. It turned out that both Dylan and Morgan’s poles had fish on the line – but also the lines were crossed! Morgan released a bit of line, hoping to detangle, but lost his fish. The focus went to Dylan’s pole, and the fight ensued as Morgan and Dylan fought the fish for about 20 minutes. At last, Dylan brought the wahoo in close enough, and John gaffed it like a pro! We cleared the back deck where the boys placed the 56” fish on the deck and filleted it perfectly. Since dinner was already on the stove, we stored the meat in the freezer, anticipating many delicious meals to come. Feeling proud and excited, we enjoyed some snacks, then dined on one of my pre-made frozen meals: coconut chicken with lime and cilantro, served with rice.
The night watch was a bit more exciting this evening. With a full moon above us, the seas became chunkier by the hour. Following the same path as a few other BajaHa-Ha boats, this evening we ran into some new vessels such as the USAV Hobkirk (Military Ops) and the expansive Carnival Radiance.
Day 8 – Wednesday, November 5, 2025
Morning arrives early at sea since one of us is on watch at all times. By 3 am, we were sloshing around vigorously, making this passage uncomfortable. John and Dylan changed our sails to a new direction to create a more comfortable ride, but Mother Nature had other plans. For safety, we doubled up our watch, so John and I stayed up together. At one point, we saw a strange boat (or something with a bright light) about 5 miles away, but it had no AIS signature, so we were unable to ID it. This was a bit disconcerting, but fortunately, it remained in the same spot, so we passed by without incident. Our next challenge occurred with Morgan’s watch at 4 pm. John attempted to switch the diesel tank over to the second tank, yet once again, there was air in the lines, and the RPMs lowered significantly, so we were forced to add fuel to our original tank. This remedy worked temporarily, but John will need to troubleshoot the issue when we are at anchor.
Our ETA at Turtle Bay was 10 am, and despite some significant sea surges, the ride was calmer; we enjoyed the view of Isla de Navidad off our port and forged south to our destination.
Turtle Bay’s entrance is impressive – the bay is expansive, capped by a small peninsula/island on one side and embraced by edgy cliffs on the other. As birds show off their flight formations and sea lions curiously inspect your arrival, the modest little town presents itself, welcoming nautical visitors. After selecting our anchoring spot (there were many choices since only 6 boats were anchored), Dylan prepared sashimi, and we devoured an early, tasty lunch. Engine silence was a welcome addition to our morning. Local panga drivers passed by, checking to see if we wanted to purchase fuel or other necessities.
Next on John’s agenda was boat maintenance. The first project was to repair a leak in the forward head, which he quickly tackled. The second repair, the fuel pump, proved to be more challenging and a lot messier. Since the floorboards needed to be opened, the boys collected their fishing gear and boarded the dinghy for a journey of exploration.
Tonight there was a supermoon known as a Beaver Moon, a full moon at the closest point to the Earth in its orbit. As Dylan served up wahoo sashimi, we admired the biggest, brightest moon of 2025. Appetizers were followed by wahoo ceviche and fish tacos, reminiscent of Bubba Gump’s Shrimp from the movie Forest Gump.
Day 9 – Thursday, November 6, 2025
We awoke this morning in our glassy cove surrounded by more than 100 new Ha-Ha boats, a big departure from the cozy group we started with! A good portion of the fleet arrived in the night following a tough day at sea. Some approached too close to Cedros Island, encountering massive kelp beds and getting tangled. Others further out met their battle with winds of 20-30 knots – sails were damaged, a Starlink blew into the ocean, and there were other issues such as a faulty transmission, radio issues, hydraulic fluid, and broken eyeglasses. Each morning the fleet joins on a radio call with Richard Spindler, the Poohbah, sharing victories and resolving issues, with members generously assisting one another. It’s similar to cruising with our SBYC fleet but on a much larger scale.
Wishing to explore the town a bit, we hailed a panga escort for $3/person. The pier at Turtle Bay is dilapidated and somewhat treacherous, making a panga arrival preferable. You can arrive by dinghy, but it involves climbing straight up a rickety wooden ladder. A beach landing is also an option with groups of children eager to greet and “assist” dinghy arrivals for a small tip. I will clarify that most of the kids are small, unskilled, and provide more entertainment than assistance.
Throughout the day, children run about smiling and offering assistance, but causing one to wonder if they attend the schools we passed on our walkabout. We learned that the BajaHa-Ha cruise is a virtual holiday for this little town, so they close the schools. It was also reported that this fishing community earns half their annual income from our short stay, so the cruisers are mindful of being generous for the services the locals provide.
Strolling on the main drag of the city is eye-opening and provides a glimpse into the simplicity, poverty, quaintness, and beauty of this tiny fishing town. Dust coats everything, and broken windows abound as you pass a disabled washing machine on a porch (the laundromat). There is a sports bar run by a lively gal who speaks English and offers a dance party with your meal. The small grocery store is well stocked (for its size), even offering Kirkland products. The Pemex gas station offers fuel slightly cheaper than El Gordo, the business on the pier, but we assessed the actual savings, given that you must lug the jugs of fuel back to your boat.
Hot and thirsty, we followed suit with other cruisers and ordered beers at the beach bar/restaurant while absorbing the scenery and admiring the local color. We nibbled tasty carne asada tacos and socialized with fellow cruisers. Later, John, Morgan, and I returned to the beach where Morgan competed in a lively beach volleyball game. Dylan opted to go fishing once again and caught a good-sized calico. Unfortunately, while cleaning the fish, the fillet knife ended up in his left foot. The wound wasn’t too severe, so John got him wrapped up.
Initially, we planned to dine onshore; however, visiting the bathroom of our restaurant of choice (with no running water), detoured our decision, so we headed back to Nirvana for Mama TT’s homemade chili. It was another great day, and we slept peacefully on the glassy bay.
Day 10 – Friday, November 7, 2025
We began our day with the usual chores- running the generator to recharge power and make water and some light cleaning. We even tested out our new washer/dryer which is an energy consumer but handy for small loads. Morgan and Dylan did some morning fishing while John assisted fellow cruisers by supplying parts and guidance. Later we rode a panga to shore and tried lunch at the local sports bar, an excellent decision. Diana and her brother Herman were very attentive, the food was exceptional, and best of all, the bathrooms had running water and were clean!
Following lunch, we located the baseball field where the annual Cruisers vs. Locals baseball game was scheduled. The town has a substantial stadium, and the event was well attended by all. The first part of the game involved local children eagerly lined up to bat, and it was endearing to see 4-year-olds muster up their courage. Of course, they always made it to base! Later, the teenagers competed against the Cruisers, showing our group how the game is really played. At the end of the game, the BajaHa-Ha Cruisers donated an assortment of equipment to the local children, always making an effort to give back to this community that embraces us so kindly. Morgan played baseball while I chatted with some little girls donning Indians jerseys, and soon they became his cheerleaders.
It is common for local children to offer to provide services for $1, such as helping people with small tasks; however, others just say, “Give me a dollar,” which is unfortunate. Nevertheless, the locals seem content with life in Bahia Tortugas. They are friendly, helpful, and welcoming to their visitors. Our favorite taxi/panga driver/ATV rental guy named Jesus (and goes by “GetYa”) shared with Morgan that he is very pleased with his life. He fishes, enjoys the beach, and hangs out. Life is simple, and he likes it that way. A good reminder for us all.
Following the baseball game, we returned to Nirvana. Morgan and Dylan took off for another fishing adventure while John and I relaxed a bit. Upon their return, the boys prepared an amazing and very fresh fish taco dinner with the Calico they caught. We cleaned up and then headed to a neighboring catamaran, Nauti Girl, for an impromptu party. Morgan brought his guitar, providing welcome live entertainment for our fellow Cruisers. Slowly, we are meeting people in the group. We definitely are an eclectic mix of characters, hailing from a variety of backgrounds and experiences, which keeps things interesting!
Day 11 – Saturday, November 8, 2025
Today is the scheduled BajaHa-Ha Cruiser beach party. In the morning, we hung out onboard taking care of odds and ends and admiring the dolphins and seals who playfully cruised by Nirvana. John installed wheels on our dinghy, so we felt confident taking it to the beach versus hiring a panga taxi. With Dylan’s foot still injured, we wrapped a trash bag around his foot and sealed it with duct tape. We arrived at the beach and, thanks to the manly muscle power of our crew, were able to haul a very heavy dinghy/engine onshore.
The beach was calm, warm, and a light breeze kept us comfortable. Various concession stands were set up by the Ha-Ha leaders and the local merchants. There were a few bars as well as vendors selling a variety of tacos (fish, shrimp, and even octopus), tamales, and handmade jewelry (John bought a fossil shark tooth necklace). Additionally, locals offered horse rides, ATV treks, and kayak rentals for $20. Morgan and Dylan opted for the ATV rental and sped off on a memorable cruise down the long, breathtaking beachfront.
Meanwhile, the Ha-Ha leaders sold hot dogs with the proceeds going to the town children and set up a volleyball net, which Morgan enjoyed. A lively “tug-of-war” competition of women versus men was held, and the women were victorious (the usual outcome). On a side note, Morgan was instructed that he could not participate in the competition, which explains the results. Ha, ha, ha! We basked in the serenity of the beachfront, swapped tales with fellow cruisers, and continued to be grateful for this amazing journey and the opportunity to share it as a family.
Having been given a live lobster demonstration by Diana at the Sports Bar on Friday, we were eager to order lobster for dinner tonight. We radioed the panga taxi only to learn that none of them were running. Most had worked all afternoon escorting cruisers to and from the beach party, so they were done for the day. Instead, we lowered the dinghy and cautiously took our chances tying up at the pier. This worked well since panga traffic was minimal. In the distance, we heard the thumping music from local parties and worried that perhaps the entire town might be closed down. Thankfully, the Sports Bar was still open, empty, and Herman was eager to serve up four Puerto Nuevo lobster dinners for $32 a head. It was everything we anticipated and more - the perfect ending for our final night in the sweet town of Bahia Tortugas.
Day 12 - Sunday, November 9, 2025
The scheduled departure time for the BajaHa-Ha fleet to leave Bahia Tortugas for Bahia Santa Maria was 9 am. Following the morning all-call with the Poohbah at 8 am, most of the fleet pulled anchor and headed out of the bay. Initially, the sky was overcast as the sun groggily peeked through billowy clouds and the fleet eloquently paraded toward its southern journey. A couple of panga guys sped by, waving, laughing, and indicating that we needed to ride our horse faster—a warmhearted farewell from the locals. Depending on wind and sea conditions, we expect this leg of the journey, 227 miles, to take 30 hours, giving us a 1 pm arrival on Monday. Traveling south, we observed the water temperature increasing to 76 degrees.
On the radio we heard reports that other cruisers were catching fish, but so far, we only hooked a couple of dogfish that we released. An exciting moment came when a couple of thieving seals decided to chase after a fish on Dylan’s line. Fortunately, a determined Dylan outwitted his competitors. Unfortunately, he reeled in another dogfish. Finally, just before the sunset, Dylan’s pole went off, and triumphantly he reeled in a gorgeous 30 lb. dorado. The fish put up a good fight as Morgan attempted to gaff it. The boys cleaned the prize (and the bloody deck) while I heated dinner.
The evening waters were sloshy with following winds of 20 knots on the stern. So, rather than preparing the fresh fish, we opted to dine on bell peppers stuffed with turkey burger and rice; a meal I prepared and froze before departure. We cleaned up, then hunkered down, preparing for similar overnight conditions.
Day 13 – Monday, November 10, 2025
As predicted, Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride was not over yet. With similar conditions, we foraged ahead, wind on the stern and waves hitting us from side to side. This caused the sail to swing abruptly from side to side, creating a thunderous and unsettling crash. At midnight, John changed our heading, a welcome decision that would lengthen our trip a little but provide more comfort. On a happier note, my new friends Luna and Miss Sun did not disappoint, gracing the skies with their dramatic entrances and providing the highlight of night and early morning watch.
We relished another warm day on the water, and fishing provided good entertainment. Although we have Starlink, we must pay an extra fee for priority service when we are more than 12 miles offshore. Suddenly, we hooked a tuna! Morgan was excited to bring in our first yellowtail, while John, our expert gaffer, made sure it made it on board. We celebrated the sashimi in our future.
Our approach to Bahia Santa Maria was accented with plenty of insanity. First, on the radio, another boat reported that they had spotted a pod of whales, as well as lobster pots, in the waters off the entrance of the bay. While conducting a careful watch for both, suddenly both fishing lines went off. Morgan and Dylan ran to the reels while John stood by, and I continued to keep a watchful eye. Our catch was two good-sized bonitas, which put up a good fight but were thrown back to swim for another day. We did not see any whales or lobster pots; however, shimmering flying fish danced at Nirvana’s bow.
Entering the bay, we were overwhelmed by the immense size – 8 miles of expansive beaches and dramatic hillsides. Near the anchorage, tiny colorful buildings dotted the arid hillside. Like Bahia Tortugas, Bahia Santa Maria is a small fishing community, but much less developed.
The BajaHa-Ha description of Bahia Santa Maria is as follows:
“The bay is natural and pristine. No discos, no stores, no restaurants, no telephones, no lights, and only a few weather-beaten fishermen who live in boxes on the banks of the mangroves inside the bar.
The views from the water are great, but from the peaks on the north, the views are spectacular. To the south, the rest of the huge bay could provide protection from the prevailing northwesterlies for 1,000 boats; to the east, the winding mangroves and ever-changing tidal marshes, and the sand dunes. And in the distance, the blue waters of Mag Bay.”
After a 31-hour trip, we joined 8 other boats, dropped anchor, then explored a bit in the dinghy. Yellowfin tuna was on the menu for dinner. Chefs Morgan and Dylan prepared a delectable feast, followed by a spectacular star show that lit up the night. Our new anchorage provided a calm bed as we gratefully drifted off to well-earned slumber.
Day 14 – Tuesday, November 11, 2025
The highlights of today included our first swim in the 76-degree water. This bay seems much cleaner than Bahia Tortuga, so we eagerly dove in. Morgan took the paddleboard to the point where a group of surfers from the fleet were catching waves. It was a 2-mile paddle (each way), quite the workout. The rest of us got in the dinghy and studied the approach to go ashore. A line of uninterrupted surf breaks off the shoreline, guarding the little town from unadventurous visitors. Stories shared include cruisers whose boats were swamped by the waves, causing bodily harm and engine damage. Neither consequence sounds appealing. We timed wave sets and watched in awe as the locals in pangas deftly made their entrances. There is an estuary with mangroves and small fishing camps that we hope to explore. Reluctantly, we decided to postpone this adventure to tomorrow morning. At sunset , Morgan and Dylan played music on the stern, and then we enjoyed another great meal together.
Day 15 – Wednesday, November 12, 2025
Today’s “To Do” list involved the critical process of checking in with Mexican immigration. The officers travelled from La Paz to meet with the BajaHa-Ha Fleet and admit all 120 boats into the country. This chore thwarted our plans of early morning mangrove exploration; instead, we hung out charging batteries and making water. By the way, having a water maker on your boat is a game-changer. We’ve heard reports from other cruisers asking for water donations, and we are still 3 days from Cabo, where they can refill their tanks.
By 11 am we completed our immigration check-in and mustered up the courage to ride the tides in and explore the mangroves. Outside the break, we sat in the dinghy, patiently observing the wave action and calculating the best weight distribution. We waited for a lull, took a deep breath, and Dylan plowed in to shore, following wave after wave until suddenly we found ourselves safely beyond the break. It was exciting, but knowing that the return ride would prove to be even more exhilarating, we held our celebration.
We navigated past the main part of the little town and through shallow depths, gliding our way into the narrow entrance of the mangroves. There is enough space for two pangas to pass. Egrets, herons, and other shorebirds shyly peek out from the vines while silvery fish dart in and out of sight below the dinghy. Eventually, the calm of nature is interrupted by an encampment where fishermen repair their equipment, tend to their catch, and rest after long days of fishing. As we floated by, a few small children played in the sand and the locals offered us a kind wave. John and his family visited here when he was 7 years old and he noted that not much has changed.
As predicted, our trip back to Nirvana was more formidable than our journey to shore. Again, we timed the set of waves, Dylan powered up, and we fiercely forged ahead, this time with waves threatening to break over the bow – a few did, and we got wet! The engine caught air a few times as we pounded through the waves, but Dylan maneuvered with finesse, escorting us safely past the surf line. Morgan’s iWatch detected that his heart rate was elevated and thought he was working out. As you can imagine, our safe passage was followed by great celebration, and Morgan shared the quote, “With great risk comes great reward.”
At noon the BajaHa-Ha fleet hosted a party onshore. Having successfully conquered the surfline challenge, we opted for a panga taxi to shore. The party was staged on the cliffs overlooking the fleet of BajaHa-Ha boats. The best view in the house! Locals set up a bar and a kitchen offering delicious homemade Baja seafood tacos, salad, and rice. A band drove in from La Paz, creating a festive vibe and providing amazing entertainment. We chatted with fellow cruisers, danced a little, and soaked up the magic of another gorgeous day in this special place.
In the evening, we shared dinner with our new friends Mark and Tomo, from the sailboat MamaLu. Dylan and Colleen met them in San Diego Harbor when the prop on their boat was wrapped, and they were struggling to avoid a collision course with a cruise ship. Dylan towed them to safety, and soon we became fast friends. We savored the last of our tuna, with hopes there will be more in our future.
Day 16 – Thursday, November 13, 2025
The 6 am fleet call arrived much too early but compliantly we joined on the radio. This morning the fleet sets sail for Cabo, a 24-hour trip. As we departed the serene Bahia Santa Maria, a shroud of fog gently layered the morning sunrise. There was light wind, and it was somewhat rolly but eventually we had 10 knots of wind, enough to sail slowly. John is frustrated by our sail options, thinking it would have been beneficial to bring our spinnaker for downwind sailing.
In the morning, we caught a couple of good sized bonitas but tossed them back, holding out for the tastier tuna, dorado, or wahoo. Finally, just before noon, Dylan’s reel went off bringing in a very feisty 44” dorado. After a significant struggle, he and John got it onboard, securing yet another meal from the sea. There were more strikes but no significant catches the rest of the day, despite Morgan’s hopes of catching another tuna. We heard radio reports that there were turtle and whale sightings. Dylan spotted whale and by the time Morgan and I made it up top, we only saw it spout once then dive back down to the depths of its ocean playground.
At dusk the sea became rougher, so we pulled out another batch of my pre-made meals. Having consumed a lot of tacos, we dined on pasta with marinara meat sauce and salad, the last of our fresh vegetables. In addition to running out of such provisions, there was a more pressing concern, fuel. In Turtle Bay we filled supplemental jugs with diesel just in case the wind didn’t cooperate on our journey. With the wind behind us, a sloshy sea state, and no spinnaker, we were forced to run the engine more than we anticipated. John added the reserve jugs to the tank, then to conserve fuel, we slowed our speed, collectively hoping for the best as we ventured into another long night at sea, surfing the southbound waves. The air was uncomfortably hot and humid, hovering around 83 degrees; the first time I’ve stood night watch in shorts and a t-shirt. Meanwhile, tonight’s live entertainment consisted of a spectacular star show featuring the Milky Way, the Little and Big Dipper, and more constellations than imaginable. Likely feeling upstaged by the star show, Luna failed to make her nightly appearance until Morgan took watch at 1 pm. John was up half the night tending to the many issues on the boat – adjusting sails, keeping an eye on the crazy seas and the gusty 20 knot winds. At times Nirvana rode waves and reached speeds of up to 10 knots. John was also monitoring the alternator because it wasn’t charging the batteries. He’s an amazing captain and able to resolve just about any issue we have!
Day 17 – Friday, November 14, 2025
Morning brought little relief from the confused sea conditions, and the captain and crew were feeling fatigued. There were more boats around us than usual, so we were continuously monitoring their locations, trying to keep a distance of at least 1 ½ miles from one another. Observing a glorious sunrise near the point of our destination provided relief, comfort, and exhilaration.
We were welcomed to Cabo by the famous arch as well as a cluster of buzzing tourist boats and two huge cruise ships, foreshadowing the insanity to come. Since we assumed our engine was running on fumes, our first stop was the fuel dock. Navigating in the harbor was mayhem. It appears there is no enforced speed limit; boats pass one another and cut each other off without concern for collision. Fortunately, Dylan was at the helm and decided that the best plan was to “drive like a local”, a technique that worked very well. Tony at the dock was incredibly helpful, getting us fueled up and disposing of 8 bags of trash. After calculating how much diesel we purchased, John determined that we had more fuel than he thought, so the worry was for naught.
We cruised over to Hotel Row, the recommended location for anchoring, dropped the bow hook, joining a group of other anchored HaHa boats. The Office, one of our favorite Cabo restaurants, was located directly on the beach in front of us, so we hailed a panga taxi and quickly found ourselves relaxing on the sand with delicious beverages and breakfast. We felt proud of ourselves and toasted our success.
It is VERY hot here – 90-degree air temperature, and 82-degree water temperature. Just to be clear, we are not complaining about this, especially since there are brutal storms slamming Santa Barbara. Swimming is refreshing, and the water is clear, but we stay close to Nirvana to avoid being run over by fanatical pangas, powerboats, and jet skis.
In the evening, we headed to Baja Cantina to reunite with the BajaHa-Ha group. We sat with Chris Jester; a cruiser we met in Turtle Bay, and enjoyed a tasty meal. Next, we walked to Squid Row Nightclub for the Ha-Ha “Cheated Death” party, which provided excellent people watching and insanely loud music – Cabo style. Every establishment perceives that tourists seek loud music, whistle blowing, and continuous microphone chatter. John and I lasted about an hour, then ventured back to Nirvana for some much-needed sleep.
Day 18 – Saturday, November 15, 2025
We slept in a little this morning – a luxury we had not enjoyed for many days. Our first chore was laundry, which dries at lightning speed in this heat. Next, we ordered an Uber and headed to Costco (with an ocean view) for provisioning. We purchased tons of supplies and somehow managed to get everything loaded into the dinghy and back to the boat in under 1 ½ hours. For lunch, we discovered a great restaurant called Las Guacamayas and savored tasty, fresh fruit margaritas, guacamole, and tacos.
Returning to the boat, we prepared for our friends from Sigada (Bruce, Garred, Kat, and Erica) to join us for happy hour on Nirvana. Dylan wowed our guests with his legendary espresso martinis, and we enjoyed their company. Later, the final event of the BajaHa-Ha, the awards ceremony, was held at the Mango Deck Restaurant, located directly in front of our boat. The organizers called up each division of sailors (we were the Desperados), and I am pretty certain that everyone placed third or better. We were grateful to have completed the rally. John, Dylan, and I returned to The Office for dinner and had another spectacular meal. As a fellow cruiser stated, “It’s nice to have something other than boat food.” We finished the evening reuniting with the Sigada crew on Nirvana and enjoyed some late-night fun.
Day 19 – Sunday, November 16, 2025
Since it was our final day in Cabo, we decided it was time to head over and check out the famous Cabo Arch. It was good to do our sightseeing in the morning before the masses of tourists arrived in pangas, sporting their industrial orange life vests. Indeed, the arch is majestic, making it the crown jewel of Cabo’s harbor.
Feeling the effects of the previous night, we walked groggily into town searching for a restaurant John had seen reviewed. It turned out to be quite far, and regretfully we trudged through the heat only to find the menu to be unappealing. Remembering our delicious meal the day prior, we hiked back to Las Guacamayas, joined up with Mark and Tomo (from MaMaLu), and gratefully enjoyed lunch.
Today Morgan was scheduled to depart from Cabo and return to work. So, following lunch, John shuttled him to the dinghy dock, and he took an Uber. That afternoon, we napped, and John spent time troubleshooting an alternator/regulator issue that began on our trip from Bahia Santa Maria. It was a frustrating job, but his repair seemed to work.
Collectively, we chose to dine on something other than Mexican food. We were chip, salsa, and taco’ed out, so we selected El Peregrino, a lovely little place that served international cuisine. Our server, Romeo, served up a fabulous surf and turf dinner - the highlight was bacon-wrapped, stuffed shrimp. We took home doggy bags – lunch for our 6-hour passage tomorrow!
Day 20 - Monday, November 17, 2025
We awoke at 6 am in preparation for our passage to Los Frailes (The Monks), another large anchorage offering a pristine beach, good snorkeling, abundant marine life, and fishing. As the sunrise welcomed us, we bid farewell to the natural beauty and rowdy beach life – the dichotomy that is Cabo San Lucas.
Initially, there was no wind, so we motored. Overwhelmed by the early morning heat, we installed our new sunshades. A bathing suit and a water squirt bottle helped drop the temperature a bit but it’s hot and humid. John spied a whale on our tranquil journey.
Time passed and soon the winds and seas picked up with headwinds that crashed waves over the boat, creating good onboard entertainment. Nirvana bravely charged through the waves at 8 knots, breaking through each one with greater enthusiasm. Her spectators were impressed. Then, about an hour from our destination, I went below to make some popcorn. By chance, I happened to check the cabins and discovered that the bunk room floor was sloshing with water. It turns out that when we checked the hatches, that one was not completely locked down. Needless to say, it was an unfortunate oversight. Both beds and linens were thoroughly soaked, creating additional boat chores in our future.
We motor-sailed into Bahía Los Frailes anchorage alongside our SB boat neighbors, Ed and Martha Kaufman, and joined about 8 other boats. The expansive turquoise bay is embraced by an expansive sandy beach and crowned with green hillsides, very different flora from Turtle Bay, and indicative of the humidity we experience. Once anchored, we were immediately drawn to the water for a refreshing swim. We were impressed by the clarity of the water as we saw shells on the bottom and colorful fish swimming below. This wondrous preserve is known as Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park has one of North America’s oldest coral reefs, described by Jacques Cousteau as the “aquarium of the world”. There is exceptional marine biodiversity with sea turtles, sea lions, and colorful fish.
Despite our intense desire to explore our new watery abode, following our swim and some lunch, fatigue set in so we napped. We continue to struggle with acclimating to the heat and humidity, which is very unusual for us. Dylan flew his drone while John and I took a quick dinghy cruise and said hello to some fellow cruising friends. Dylan prepared his dorado for dinner, and by 8:30 am, everyone was ready for bed. Initially, we planned to spend one night here, but clearly that won’t be long enough to appreciate this beautiful, unspoiled treasure.
Day 21 – Tuesday, November 18, 2025
With no wind and high heat, sleeping is a challenge that is comforted by the amazing night sky. Last night the constellations showed off their vast, brilliant beauty – causing me to wish I could identify every one of them.
Dylan did some remote work while John and I took the stand-up paddleboards over to check out the coral preserve and the beach. The crystal water enabled us to observe many fish from the surface. Next, we walked along the beach and visited a sea turtle release area that appeared to have been abandoned at the moment. Seashells and colorful rocks, but thankfully no trash, littered the sand, and I even stumbled upon one treasured piece of green sea glass.
After lunch we geared up to snorkel in the marine preserve, located just off our boat. We anchored the dinghy outside the protected area then swam in to enjoy the show. Witnessing a healthy coral reef and a diverse variety of fish, I soon understood why Jacque Cousteau embraced this location. We regretted not bringing the Go-Pro on this dive as it would have been amazing to capture the beautiful fish we spied – large colorful parrot fish (in many colors), cowfish, needle fish, spotted pufferfish, Moorish idols, surgeonfish, damselfish – there are more than 300 types of fish on the reef!
Following our dive, we swam, attended to boat projects (including cleaning and addressing additional alternator/regulator issues), and relaxed for a bit. At sunset, we hopped in the dinghy and toured the vast shoreline of the bay, observing a fish camp, some beach campers, a villa rental ($7500 per person for 3 nights), and a small collection of elaborate beachfront homes. Dylan took some spectacular drone footage of the bay. Dinner was simple, my premade coconut-cilantro chicken dish, garden salad, and tiramisu. Again, we headed to bed early, in preparation for the next day’s journey to Bahía Los Muertos (aka Bahía del los Sueños).
Day 21 – Tuesday, November 19, 2025
Following another balmy and sleepless night, at 6 am we awoke to a glorious sunrise and departed for our 5 ½ hour journey to Bahía Los Muertos (aka Bahía de los Sueños). There was no wind, so we didn’t bother hoisting the main sail until later in the day. We have heard that this leg of the trip can be rough, but once we passed Punta Arena, the sea was like glass. There was cloud coverage, and it was not as hot – a welcome change.
Like Bahía Los Frailes, Los Muertos is low-key and has a long expansive beach, clear water, a sandy bottom, and home to about 300 locals. Although still underdeveloped, there is a hotel/resort (Hotel Gran Sueño) at the north end and a palapa restaurant (Restaurant 1535) at the southern end of the bay.
The origin of name “Bahía Los Muertos” or Bay of the Dead seems to vary. One tale indicates that mutinous pirates were buried here. There is also a tale of a fierce battle on the beach. Another story hails back to 1862 when the El Triunfo mining company struck silver and gold, and it became a home base for 10,000 miners from Mexico and the United States. El Triunfo buried six 2,000 lb. train car axles (or dead man anchors) to create moorings for inactive loading barges. The third, and more recent explanation is attributed to excavations that uncovered an ancient indigenous burial site. Subsequently, the development company renamed the location “Bahía de los Sueños”, Bay of Dreams, but it doesn’t seem to be helping their marketing. Viewing the vision map in the sales office, it appears they are not selling many homes for 1.8 million each. Nevertheless, it is a lovely little town, and we are eager to explore everything it has to offer.
We proceeded to shore, however, there was no place to tie up the dinghy. Identifying a small slice of sandy beach, we hauled the boat ashore and took a stroll down the long beach toward Restaurant 1835, named after the arrival of conquistador Hernán Cortés. We gazed at the 8 boats anchored in the bay while on the beach, vultures sensed our presence and cautiously picked at fish carcasses. We sipped cold beverages along with a few tourists who arrived by car. Waiting more than 20 minutes to place our order, we came to the realization that life moves slowly here – a good lesson to heed. Following happy hour on Nirvana with friends Mark and Tomo (MaMaLu), we all returned to the restaurant and enjoyed a memorable evening, punctuated by scrumptious cuisine, plenty of laughter, and a good dose of Japanese dialogue (that we couldn’t understand).
Returning to Nirvana, the weather changed, and we sensed an impending squall, the first we’ve experienced on this trip. John and Dylan secured the boat, while we watched hundreds of mid-sized fish (maybe bigeye trevally/jackfish?) circle Nirvana, simulating a dance party in our underwater lights. The overnight squall brought light winds, a bit of rain, and cooler temps (much to our relief).
Day 22 – Thursday, November 20, 2025
After breakfast, we packed our snorkel gear and headed to the reef off the resort. There was only one boat anchored there, giving us our choice of dive locations in the shallow waters. Much like Bahía Los Frailes, the water was comfortably warm, incredibly clear, and teeming with a variety of fish. Highlights included seeing a 4-foot needlefish and three of my favorite spotted pufferfish.
Next, we ventured to the resort restaurant, Centro de Trenes, which did not disappoint. The venue offers both outdoor and indoor dining in an expansive ballroom setting. The mezzanine is adorned with a large model train setup and a variety of pinball machines and arcade games—every child’s dream! We savored delicious tacos and craft margaritas while Latte and Gordita, the resident cats, kept watch. I’m quite certain they run the place! Outside, there’s a tiered pool with a waterslide, which Dylan eagerly tried out.
After a quick rest, we prepared for our happy hour guests from Sagata and MaMaLu. Dylan’s dorado was on the dinner menu at Restaurant 1535, where they will prepare and serve your catch for about $10 per person. Our final evening at Bahía Los Muertos was truly memorable.
Day 23 – Friday, November 21, 2025
We weighed anchor by 7 am, bidding farewell to the quaint village of Bahía Los Muertos as we began our 7-hour journey to La Paz. We were blessed with light winds, calm seas, and puffy clouds, drifting past the scenic islands of Jacques Cousteau (Isla Cerralvo) and Espíritu Santo. Isla Jacques Cousteau, 18 miles long, is the ninth largest island in Mexico, while the smaller Espíritu Santo stretches 16 miles. Both islands are protected and home to whale sharks, leatherback turtles, hammerhead sharks, sea lions, and numerous exotic fish—a diver’s paradise!
The journey was peaceful, though the fishing was spotty, and Dylan only managed to hook one bonita. By 2:30 pm, we entered La Paz Harbor. Navigating the entrance was tricky due to sandbars, and boats must follow buoys as they traverse past the cliff walls. The process took about 30 minutes until we finally arrived at the marinas (there are 4). Dylan did an exceptional job navigating Nirvana into La Paz Marina, where we had a reserved slip. Our arrival marked another milestone for our family.
Today was our 33rd wedding anniversary, and John thoughtfully made reservations at Las Tres Virgines, a highly recommended restaurant on Yelp. The three of us were excited to celebrate together. The food was exceptional, but our waiter was somewhat robotic, which cast a negative shadow over our dining experience. After dinner, we strolled from the restaurant to the Malecón, where we unexpectedly encountered an event. Hundreds of Baja buggies lined the main drag, with owners proudly showcasing their vehicles to local spectators. Meanwhile, the fancier vehicles paraded down Paseo Álvaro Obregón amid the roar of revving engines and enthusiastic commentators. We surmised this was likely a follow-up to the recent Baja 1000 rally in Ensenada. Intrigued, we slipped into a bar/café to sip piña coladas and further soak in the local color.
Having just arrived in La Paz, my perception of the town is still limited. With a population of 160,000, it’s slightly smaller than Cabo but equally bustling and lively. The difference lies in the fact that most patrons here are locals rather than tourists. It was heartwarming to see many families, often spanning three generations, enjoying their Friday night together. The people seem genuinely friendly—not merely trying to hustle you.
Day 24 – Saturday, November 22, 2025
Travel brings immense wonderment, accompanied by intermittent distraction which in some cases can be problematic. This morning was laundry day. Following the unfortunate “bunkroom flood”, we hired a laundry service to tackle this chore. Curiously, a woman arrived by car, picked up 8 bags of laundry, and drove off without leaving a receipt or any evidence of the transaction. And ironically, we went along with it! As I mentioned earlier, there is a feeling of trust in the people we have met, so far.
We took a leisurely stroll down the Malecón then took seats at a high-top table near the helado store. Watching families and friends enjoy their ice cream was delightful, especially with exotic flavors like maracuya (passion fruit), mango, and guava that we rarely find back home.
With many provisions depleted, we found a cab and headed to Soriana, one of the larger grocery stores, to restock. We asked the driver to wait for us, then scrambled through the store ineffectively gathering our items – and forgetting many. Ugh. We returned to the Marina and eagerly reunited with Morgan. Carelessly, I jumped out of the car to greet Morgan, inadvertently leaving my backpack in the taxi. As I became aware of my error, our driver vanished. Fortunately, a group of employees from the Marina café was taking a break and available to help. The host explained that there are only 2 taxi companies in La Paz and provided us with both phone numbers – no answer. He then suggested that I return to the location where we hailed the cab and so began my mad Malecón marathon (ok, that’s an exaggeration – it was only 6 blocks, but I did sprint). Approaching my targeted destination, the roundabout, my hope waned as there were no taxis. Then, in the distance, a small yellow taxi emerged. In a blurred and hyperventilative state, I shared my story in Spanish with the driver. He asked all the obvious questions which I could not answer – What was the number on the cab, the name of the driver, the type of car, what did the driver look like (I could answer that). As fortune had it, the taxi drivers use a private messaging service to communicate with one another. My new driver friend sent out the taxi version of an all-points bulletin (APB), and within 5 minutes, Aaron, our driver, returned with my backpack in hand. I continue to be impressed with the helpfulness and kindness of the people of La Paz.
Exhausted but relieved, I returned to Nirvana for a nap while the boys went up to the Marina Café to get lunch for Morgan. Upon a recommendation from our friends on MaMaLu, we later dined at Hana Sushi, where we indulged in many delightful dishes, including wagyu sushi topped with gold flakes.
After dinner, we found a perch at a rooftop bar to soak in the Saturday night vibe. The locals slowly cruised down the Malecón, and I estimated it took about an hour for cars to complete the loop. John and I returned to the boat while the boys ventured out to enjoy more of the nightlife.
Day 25 – Sunday, November 23, 2025
After twenty-six days aboard Nirvana, docked and ready for a good clean, we faced a long list of chores. While it was hard to muster up enthusiasm for the work ahead, we knew that it needed to be done. The exterior of Nirvana was covered in salt and remnants from our fishing adventures. Inside, the boat required a thorough disinfection, and the engine begged for some TLC. We designated today as our chore day.
The morning was slow-paced, with nobody particularly eager to dive into our tasks. However, at 11 am, we acquiesced and tackled the critical workload. By 12:30 pm, after much effort, Nirvana was sparkling, and we felt accomplished. To celebrate our hard work, we treated ourselves to a delicious brunch at our new favorite spot, the Dock Café.
In the afternoon, we joined fellow BajaHa-Ha cruisers in La Paz for a festive gathering hosted by the local marina owners and city and state officials. This event highlighted the significance of the BajaHa-Ha presence to the local economy and offered us a sense of community among fellow sailors.
For only a $10 cover charge, we enjoyed an incredible evening filled with entertainment. A local rock band set the tone while we marveled at the talented baile folklórico dancers. The evening was topped off by a memorable performance from a 10-piece mariachi band—one of the best I’ve had the pleasure of hearing! As if that wasn’t enough, a traditional Mexican dinner was served, allowing us to savor the flavors of the region and celebrate our journey together.
Day 26– Monday, November 24, 2025
We started our morning with a brisk, wind-swept five-mile walk along the Malecón. For the first time since arriving, the weather felt cooler, and the breeze was invigorating. As we followed the art walk, we lingered at each statue placed at the plaza intersections—beautiful pieces depicting the spirit of La Paz: a mermaid gliding alongside a dolphin, a soaring manta ray, whale sharks, the dove of peace, the Old Man and the Sea, Jacques Cousteau, and the famous pearl oyster. This sculpture is a local treasure because of its unique history. Here’s the story:
“Relatively new to the malecón, added in 2014 by sculptor Octavio González, this sculpture represents La Paz's once-famous pearl industry. In 1883, an astounding pearl was found inside a gigantic mother pearl oyster. The size and shape of a lemon fruit, the pearl was originally named "La Perla de La Paz," but later changed to the "Great Lemon." This incredible pearl went on to find a home in the Queen of England's crown and continues to reside there today.
La Paz and its famous pearl industry were the inspiration and setting for John Steinbeck's 1947 novel, "The Pearl." Steinbeck also references the region in his famous "The Log from the Sea of Cortez" which chronicles his travels through La Paz and the Sea of Cortez in 1940 while on a six-week boating trip around the Gulf of California collecting and examining specimens with his friend, marine biologist Ed Ricketts.”
Each sculpture seems like a love letter from the city to the sea. Naturally, we couldn’t resist stopping for the classic tourist photo in front of the La Paz sign.
Back aboard Nirvana, we were thrilled to discover that our laundry had arrived—neatly pressed, wonderfully clean, and carrying a fresh, delicate fragrance. Sometimes the simplest comforts feel the most luxurious.
The rest of the day moved at an easy pace: lunch, naps, and a windy dinghy ride to explore the anchorage beyond our marina. Touring the area made us especially grateful for our slip—with its power, water, bathrooms, and even a café. Back in May, John had the foresight to reserve this coveted spot in La Paz Marina, and today it felt like an absolute win.
Dinner took us to Bismarkcito Restaurant, where lobster was the star of the menu. We began with sensational non-alcoholic scallop “shots,” followed by an indulgent spread of lobster pizza, lobster chile rellenos, and lobster burritos. The lobsters may not have been thrilled, but we certainly were.
Day 27 – Tuesday, November 25, 2025
Today was a shopping day that began with a trip to Chedraui, our local grocery store. Hoping to combine exercise with our errands, John and I laced up our workout shoes and headed down the dusty main highway. As we walked, we realized the temperature was higher than we had expected. Nonetheless, we made it to our destination, bought our groceries, and prepared to call an Uber for our ride home. However, we quickly discovered that there were no Ubers or taxis available, making for an uncomfortable walk back. Thankfully, we had brought our new Hulken bag, which glided effortlessly over the surfaces despite being packed with groceries.
After lunch and a short rest, we ventured out again with the boys, this time for a tequila run to a store called Cayetana. The shopkeeper was a cheerful woman, and her assistant was a cat named Damian. Apparently, Damian enjoys sleeping to 70s music videos. We sampled various tequilas and left with some new treasures.
As we strolled along the Malecon, we reminisced about the delicious scallop shots we had enjoyed the night before, prompting us to pop back into Bismarkcita for a little snack. For dinner, Morgan chose a chic restaurant called NIM, which offered an exciting mix of Asian and Italian flavors. The cuisine was spectacular, matched only by our attentive and friendly servers, Marco Antonio and Karin. The perfect evening was made even better when Morgan treated the family to the meal.
Day 29 – November 27, 2025
Thanksgiving Day
Our day of thanksgiving began with a thorough boat cleaning, a necessary task that set the tone for the day ahead. Afterward, John and I enjoyed a pleasant walk along the Malecon, where the vibrant spirit of celebration mingled in the air. Although it wasn't a traditional Mexican holiday, locals and tourists alike strolled joyfully, soaking in the sunshine, while craft vendors showcased their unique wares.
A highlight of the morning was a rare and special gift—a fleeting sighting of a sea turtle. Though brief, I was elated to finally encounter one on this trip, a moment that felt both magical and significant on this special day.
The day progressed in relaxation mode at the beautiful Jardín Escondido Beach Club, nestled within La Concha Resort. We luxuriated in the clear water and warm air, as we basked in the tranquility of our surroundings. Our waterfront lunch was delightful, with fresh ingredients and local flavors; Jorge, our waiter, quickly warmed up to us, adding a personal touch to our dining experience. His attentive service and playful personality made our time there even more enjoyable. We also learned that we could bring our dinghy to the club, making a return visit inevitable.
As the sun began to set, we prepared for our Thanksgiving dinner, scheduled for 5 PM at the Dock Café. The owners had advertised a comprehensive four-course feast, and we gathered with new cruising friends from MaMaLu (Mark and Tomo), Orca (Pat), and Ondina (Liz and John). A spectacular sunset blazed through the window, casting a warm glow across the dining room as our waiters delivered our meals. The food was an innovative twist on traditional Thanksgiving flavors, and many of us happily took home leftovers.
While we missed our family back home, the laughter and camaraderie shared with our fellow cruisers reminded us of the true spirit of Thanksgiving. In that moment, we felt profoundly grateful for the experiences, friendships, and the beauty surrounding us.
Day 30 – November 28, 2025
Today, we were excitedly looking forward to a snorkel tour with whale sharks. Unfortunately, we learned that this is considered the "low season" for such adventures, as the number of sharks in the area is limited at this time of year. Consequently, tour companies hold a daily lottery to decide which boats will be allowed to run their excursions. Regrettably, our company was not selected, leaving us with no choice but to reschedule for another day. This was particularly disappointing since Morgan is leaving for home tomorrow.
Determined to make our final day with Morgan unforgettable, we hopped into a cab and headed to the Costa Baja Beach Resort for more sun-soaked fun. That morning, our friend Mark had moved his boat to the Costa Baja Marina, so he joined us for the day. We settled into a cozy beach lounge area, with the clear ocean water on one side and a refreshing infinity pool on the other. Our new favorite waiter, Patricio, ensured we were well-fed and never thirsty!
Despite the posted stingray warnings, we were fortunate not to encounter any. I took a refreshing swim out to a relaxation float, where I had the delightful experience of meeting a cute little pufferfish. It swam up to my hand, seemingly hoping for a snack! As the sun began to set, we noticed some commotion in the water where two girls were paddleboarding. To our surprise, a group of juvenile thresher sharks had gathered in the shallow water to nibble on a school of fish, creating an unexpected spectacle. The girls seemed quite at ease interacting with the sharks. So, we ended up seeing sharks after all!
Upon our return to Nirvana, we invited the crew from Sagata—Cat, Jared, and Erica—to join us for happy hour, which seamlessly transformed into dinner. We enjoyed leftover turkey and premade coconut cilantro chicken, sharing lots of stories and laughter, making it another memorable evening.
Day 31 - November 29, 2025
Our day began slowly. John and I caught up on various online tasks while Morgan and Dylan enjoyed some well-earned rest. By the time everyone had rallied, it was already 1:00 p.m.
Since Morgan was scheduled to depart at 1:30 for his flight home, we grabbed a quick lunch at the Dock Café before he called for a taxi. Just as we were finishing our last bites, he received a notification that his flight had been delayed. After monitoring the changing status, it became clear he’d be better off rebooking. He secured a seat on the next flight—tomorrow—giving him one more unexpected day in La Paz.
In the afternoon, John, Dylan, and I took a cab into the heart of the historic downtown to visit the bank, the art museum, and the cathedral. It was a perfect outing. We loved touring the Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur (MUABCS), which is beautifully curated and features works by prominent local artists that highlight the cultural heritage of La Paz and the greater Baja region. As usual, I was immediately drawn to the ocean-themed pieces, their colors and movement echoing the sea. The building itself is also noteworthy. Originally constructed in 1861 as a government building, it eventually deteriorated and was razed in 1963. Portions of it were reconstructed in 1981 for cultural rather than governmental use. Construction of the current museum began in 2018, and the MUABCS officially opened its doors in 2020.
Next, we meandered through the neighboring plaza and Jardín Velasco toward the Cathedral. Along the way, we admired the festive Christmas decorations already on display and paused to listen to a choir rehearsing on the outdoor stage. Crossing the plaza to the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Paz, we were moved to witness a traditional wedding taking place inside.
We’d heard that the nearby Hotel Catedral had a scenic rooftop bar and pool, so we rode the elevator up to take a look. It did not disappoint—stunning panoramic views of the city paired with beautifully crafted drinks made for a lovely stop.
Afterward, we continued on to the Malecón for a bit more shopping and wrapped up the evening with a return visit to Sushi Hana for another delicious dinner. On the way back, I finally sampled the helado—a Ferrero hazelnut-chocolate candy flavor—from La Fuente del Malecón, and it was superb. As we strolled home, we even spotted a cute pufferfish basking near the shoreline, the perfect little surprise to end the night.
Day 32 – Sunday, November 30, 2025
We awoke to overcast skies that soon softened into steady rain showers, marking our first official rainy day in paradise. Fortunately, the rain was gentle—more of a persistent mist than a true storm. By noon, Morgan had packed his bags and begun his journey home, flying through LA and then driving to SB, leaving the three of us to readjust to a new rhythm.
Unsure how one is supposed to navigate life in the rain in a place where sunshine feels like a guarantee, John, Dylan, and I set out to explore. I’ll admit, it was the first day since San Diego that I pulled on long pants, and the feeling was oddly foreign. We aimed for the Malecón but veered off into new territory, wandering through the Marina Cortez area. That’s where we stumbled upon a great spot for a late lunch called Anzuelo.
I especially loved trying a new drink—the Chandon Maracuyá Spritz—similar to an Aperol Spritz but brightened with passionfruit. It was a treat for both the eyes and the palate. After sharing ceviche and a few delicious tacos, and seeing a dolphin swim by, we continued our walk into the center of town, hoping to finally find a classic “Baja hoodie” for Dylan.
Sundays here are lively and full of local families strolling, shopping, and dining, and the light rain did nothing to deter them. Curiously, we’ve noticed we are among the very few tourists in La Paz, which makes every outing feel a bit more local and authentic. Our hoodie quest was unsuccessful, but we did find Waldo (a mega department store). For nostalgia’s sake we ducked into Sears and made a beeline for the toy department, feeling that childhood flutter of Christmas excitement as Spanish holiday jingles played loudly overhead.
On the walk back, I paused to admire a few more of the statues along the Malecón. With all our exploration, we’ve been averaging about 13,000 steps a day. Today, El viejo y el mar (The Old Man and the Sea) caught my attention—along with the accompanying poem by Guillermo Gómez Mac:
The Old Man and the Sea
I have a paper boat…
It’s made from a page on which I wrote more dreams.
It has no anchors and no moorings.
I want to sail in it across the seven seas; into the eighth,
where I know I will run aground in the long-awaited harbor.
…Has anyone seen the light of its lighthouse shining?
In the evening, we headed to an Italian restaurant called Oliva al Mare, which turned out to be our favorite spot so far. Perched on the quieter end of the Malecón, the restaurant sits on a second floor bathed in colonial Mexican architecture infused with a modern twist. A boutique hotel, Posada de las Flores, shares the building—lush with greenery, flowers, and warm ambiance.
Our waiter, Josue, was wonderfully friendly and attentive, serving a lineup of delicious shareable dishes: Caesar salad, beet salad, pillowy gnocchi, and shrimp pesto pasta. It was the perfect finale to a rainy day.
Day 33 – Monday, December 1, 2025
This morning brought the news we’d been waiting for—our whale shark tour was confirmed for 1 pm! Although thick clouds still lingered from yesterday, the rain had passed and the sea lay glassy and calm. Today became a lesson in how negotiations seem to unfold in Mexico: through patience, trust, and a touch of serendipity.
We walked to the Cantamar dive shop where we had left our deposit last week, only to find the door locked. Moments later, a man wearing a tour shirt—though from a completely different company—appeared out of nowhere and asked us to pay the remaining balance in cash. Then another man in another company’s shirt arrived, and together they guided us to the meeting point. Just when the situation felt most confusing, a bubbly gal named Gabi popped up with a big smile, announcing that she would be our guide. Somehow, despite the patchwork of people and logos, everything fell seamlessly into place.
We boarded the panga with the other passengers and sped out of the harbor, pausing briefly in front of the Port Captain’s office to check in with officials. Whale shark tours are tightly regulated—only a limited number are permitted each day, and every operator must formally check in before beginning. Gabi and our captain were both warm and confident, and their professionalism put us at ease as we headed toward the feeding zone.
About 30 minutes later we reached the designated area, joining two other pangas. Only one boat may enter with one whale shark at a time, so we waited… and waited. The sun beat down as we sat sweating inside our wetsuits, while our captain serenaded us with dramatic Mexican love ballads - belting them out with such passion that it was impossible not to laugh. After nearly an hour since leaving shore, the mood had grown quietly restless.
Then came a flicker of hope - first one fin, then two, then three. Suddenly, it felt as though we had stumbled into a whale shark jackpot. As we approached a shark, the real adventure began. Following Gabi’s lead, our group slid into the water. From the surface, these gentle giants appear to move slowly and effortlessly, but swimming alongside them, it's astonishing how quickly they glide. During our first dive, everyone fumbled through the excitement, clumsily scrambling around one another for a closer look. It was awe-inspiring to swim beside such an immense yet peaceful creature. Its spotted skin resembled modern art, shimmering patterns of light and shadow, with remora clinging on like tiny, determined hitchhikers.
The second dive was calmer; our shark moved more slowly, allowing us to stay near it with far less effort. We learned that these were all juveniles—easily spooked—so perhaps this one had warmed up to us… or maybe it was simply tired. At one point, I found myself near its head, captivated by its eye and wide, elongated mouth. Then, without warning, it turned and swam directly at me. My heart leapt. I carefully moved out of its path, trying not to touch or kick it. Whale shark skin is surprisingly rough and can injure humans, and conversely, their protective coating is delicate, so contact can compromise their defense against sun and bacteria. This moment certainly spiked my adrenaline.
By the end of the tour, we were deeply grateful to Gabi and our captain for their knowledge, patience, and hospitality—and elated to have had such an extraordinary encounter with such rare and beautiful creatures. It was a day we will never forget.
Day 34 – Tuesday, December 2, 2025
It was another slow morning aboard Nirvana but determined to get off the boat for a bit, we set out for the Mercado Público, imagining we’d browse the stalls and find a casual lunch. The moment we stepped inside, however, we were greeted by a powerful wall of scent—a heady blend of meat, fish, frying oil, and a few unidentifiable notes best left unnamed.
Winding our way through the maze of vendors, we passed bright juice bars blending exotic fruit combinations, taco counters crowded with locals perched on narrow stools, a sprawling produce stand, fishmongers displaying every imaginable creature from the sea, and butchers cleaving enormous cuts with oversized knives. It was lively, authentic… and completely overwhelming. With vendors calling out “¿Qué quieren?” from every direction, we realized—honestly—we didn’t know what we wanted. But we did know one thing: we wanted out.
Once we escaped back into fresh air, our appetites miraculously returned. We headed toward the Malecón and made our way to Claro Fish Jr., an outdoor seafood spot we’d been eager to try. The reviews did not disappoint—the food was excellent. My favorite was the coconut shrimp taco, crisp and sweet and exactly what I needed after the mercado chaos.
The day turned warm, and a beach swim sounded like the perfect next chapter. We lowered the dinghy and zipped down the harbor fairway toward The Cortez Club at Playa La Concha, the beach resort we’d visited last week. Dylan took the helm and flew across the glassy water—hitting 20 knots at times—looking every bit the seasoned dinghy driver he is. Along the way an inquisitive sea turtle poked his head above the surface, gave us a quick inspection, and slipped back beneath the water.
As we neared the club, we realized the tide was far too low to tie up at their pier. Undeterred, we shifted plans and tried Marina CostaBaja, hoping to find a dinghy dock, but their famously tight security shut that idea down immediately. So back we went to The Cortez Club, scanning for alternatives. After studying the shoreline and the surf, we decided the simplest solution was best: run the dinghy up onto the beach. It worked perfectly. A few sandy steps later, we were settled under a shady palapa, sipping cold drinks and watching the blue water shimmer in front of us. Mission accomplished!
On the dinghy ride back toward La Paz Marina, I noticed something new—some of the waterfront buildings are designed with sweeping curves that mimic the open mouth of a whale shark. Once you see it, you can’t unsee it, and it feels like yet another reminder of how deeply this city embraces the sea.
Back aboard Nirvana, we kept the evening simple: leftovers for dinner followed by a cozy movie night. After a full day of wandering by land and by sea, it was the perfect quiet ending.
Day 35 – Wednesday, December 3, 2025
We have been eagerly awaiting the arrival of our friends Barbara and Chris, and today was the day! They will be our first visitors on this trip, so we feel a bit nostalgic.
We spent the morning cleaning and organizing—one of those reset days that always feels surprisingly satisfying. We also decided it was time for a little self-maintenance. John booked a massage while I treated myself to a pedicure at our local spa, Azul.
Back aboard Nirvana, John needed to replace the batteries on our mast camera, so he and Dylan took turns hoisting each other up and down the mast. I, meanwhile, did my best not to watch; that activity always ties my stomach in knots. Fortunately, they made quick work of it. Dangling from a mast is a normal day’s activity on a sailboat.
We met up with Chris and Barbara for dinner at the Bismark-cito Restaurant. They greeted us with smiles, hugs, and a bag of necessities from home, such as gluten-free soy sauce, medications, and mail. We shared a delicious dinner and relished our time together exchanging stories from life at home and sea.
Day 36 – Thursday, December 4, 2025
The alarm rang far too early for our liking, but that’s just how fishing days begin. Chris had arranged a local fishing service to take the five of us out, and his excitement was contagious—his dream was to finally fish El Bajo, a coveted spot. Coincidentally, John had been diving with hammerhead sharks at that same location back in the ’80s with the Cal Poly Dive Club, adding a fun thread of nostalgia to the day.
Our captain, Roberto, and his assistant, Junior, were friendly and confident, and soon we motored out of the harbor beneath an overcast but comfortable sky. The seas were calm and the air warm. We made our first stop at Bahía Pichelingua to pick up live bait before zipping across the channel toward Isla Espíritu Santo. At 21 knots, the trip took less than an hour.
Our early attempts didn’t yield much—mostly nibbles and stolen bait courtesy of the pesky triggerfish. Following the charts, we tried a few more spots until Dylan finally hooked into something substantial: a sizable Pargo Mulato, a common yet highly prized snapper in La Paz. Spirits lifted, and soon John reeled in a beautiful yellowtail, confirming our hope that today might be a “catching” day rather than merely a “fishing” one.
With no more action, we continued another ten miles toward El Bajo, where Chris eagerly anticipated fishing this bucket list location.
El Bajo is one of La Paz’s most legendary sites for both diving and fishing—a submerged seamount in the Espíritu Santo National Park, its underwater peaks rising from the deep up to just 50–80 feet below the surface. Invisible from above, this underwater mountain range interrupts ocean currents, creating rich upwellings that draw in pelagic life: scalloped hammerhead sharks, giant mantas, tuna, jacks, and more. It is a place that feels alive even before you drop a line.
But just as we prepared to fish, we noticed an issue—the bait tank wasn’t circulating water properly. Roberto tried to troubleshoot, but the pump refused to cooperate. Even so, we pressed on, fishing rail-to-rail, hopeful but not particularly lucky. At one point, an excited flock of seagulls led us to a violent boil of tiny triggerfish being chased by enormous Cubera Snappers, but even that frenzy didn’t translate into hits for us. It looks like Chris will be returning to La Paz to fulfill his dream.
As the afternoon winds increased and the day began to wind down, we unanimously voted to find a beach and relax with some ceviche. We headed for Playa Bonanza, a stunning two-mile stretch of pristine white sand. The sun shone as we arrived, illuminating the turquoise water while we savored our snack and soaked in the beauty of this special place.
On the return trip, light sprinkles began to fall—soon becoming legitimate rain. Once back in the harbor, we made our way to the Heimlichs’ condo at Costa Baja for glorious hot showers and a little downtime. Chris then treated Dylan to a hands-on master class in ceviche preparation, and we happily enjoyed the delicious results.
As evening settled in, the rain intensified, so we opted for dinner at the nearby Barco Restaurant, along with seemingly everyone else in the area. Fortunately, we were seated quickly under a dry patio awning, and Alejandro, our waiter, provided us with friendly, impeccable service.
Our taxi ride home added one final burst of adventure as we splashed through the newly flooded streets of the Malecón. We were grateful to be in a sturdy van and not a tiny sedan. By the time we reached Nirvana, we were a bit soggy but filled with gratitude—for the laughter, the scenery, the stories shared, and the special day spent on the sea with dear friends.
Day 37 – Friday, December 5, 2025
We awoke to the soft pitter-patter of raindrops on Nirvana’s hull—a sound that made it all too tempting to linger in bed. Still, with Chris and Barbara in town, we didn’t want to waste a single day. We pulled on our rain slickers and ventured out to meet them in the center of La Paz for a trip to the bank, a bit of shopping, and lunch.
Just like the night before, the streets were severely flooded—so much so that crossing them guaranteed soaked feet. The guys charged ahead without hesitation while Barb and I paced up and down the sidewalk like two indecisive cats, searching for any dry route across. When it became clear there was no such thing, we finally tiptoed our way through the water, much to the amusement of a group of police officers watching from the curb.
After a round of browsing for curios and tequila, we settled on La Paz Fish Tacos for lunch- a spot that had come highly recommended. As we sampled a wide array of seafood tacos, the rain began to ease, softening the edges of the day and making our outing feel even more enjoyable.
From there we wandered over to Chedraui, the grocery store, to gather ingredients for dinner aboard Nirvana and to provision for our upcoming departure. We were eager to share the yellowtail tuna John caught on our recent fishing trip. The treasure of the day was a jug of fresh maracuyá juice—perfect for the homemade passionfruit margaritas we had in mind.
Back on the boat, we rested briefly before diving into preparations for our onboard dinner party. Chris arrived with his usual enthusiasm, ready to orchestrate another culinary masterpiece. Dylan took his role as sous chef seriously, staying close by to learn the techniques and secrets passed down from his newly appointed “Codfather.” The feast did not disappoint—tuna sashimi, pan-fried tuna, garlic broccoli, and coconut rice filled the cabin with irresistible aromas. As Barb wisely shared, “Nothing tastes better than catching and eating your own fish.”
Day 38 – Saturday, December 6, 2025
Following last night’s feast and a blissfully deep sleep, we awoke praying for sunshine and a proper beach day—and that is exactly what we received. Chris and Barbara had managed to secure us entrance into the Costabaja Beach Resort, arguably the best in town, and we were eager for one final day of fun and relaxation together.
Armed with sun gear and already dreaming of poolside drinks, we summoned “Didi,” La Paz’s Uber-esque ride service. It didn’t take long to understand the primary distinction between Didi and its competitors: vehicle maintenance. Our driver, Adalberto, was friendly and capable, but the moment we lurched forward, we realized his suspension was on life support. By the time we arrived, we felt like human milkshakes. The soundtrack didn’t help-an alternating blast of hyper-energetic Mexican commercials and painfully loud American pop. Still, none of it dampened our excitement for this final sunny outing with the Heimlichs.
Costabaja did not disappoint. The day was radiant, with sunny skies, a gentle breeze, and unusually low tides caused by the King Tide phenomenon, leaving vast stretches of sand exposed. We spent the afternoon drifting between plush couches and the inviting pool, savoring a delicious lunch, sipping cool drinks, and enjoying our conversations. Each of us seemed quietly aware of how special these moments were.
Our return journey, however, proved just as adventurous as our morning ride. Out of nowhere, the Policía closed our side of the Malecón, forcing all traffic into a slow-motion tangle of detours. We sat. And sat. And sat. Eventually, once we were allowed to turn, our driver skillfully navigated us through a maze of side streets and delivered us back to Nirvana with admirable efficiency.
For our final dinner in La Paz, we chose to return to NIM Restaurant- a favorite from the week before and one we felt confident Chris and Barbara would love. Once again, the cuisine, ambiance, and service were outstanding. Afterward, we took a brief stroll past the cathedral and plaza, both alive with Christmas lights, music, and families soaking in the season’s joy.
At the end of the evening, we bid a heartfelt farewell to our dear friends and made our way back to the boat, ready to prepare for tomorrow’s passage to Bahía Muertos.
Day 39 – Sunday, December 7, 2025
We were underway by 8 a.m., hearts full and tinged with some sadness as we bid farewell to the La Paz Port Captain and the city that had become our temporary home. As we motored past Chris and Barb’s condo, we saw them out on their deck where they captured a video of our departure. A perfect sendoff.
Retracing the familiar route north, we once again delighted in the sight of the beaches we had explored, the rugged cliffs of Espíritu Santo, and the unmistakable silhouette of Jacques Cousteau Island.
Today belonged to Dylan—the undisputed fish slayer. Not long after we cleared the harbor, he reeled in a vibrant Sierra, ideal for ceviche. A couple of Skipjack followed, small and large, all of which he kindly released. But as we passed Jacques Cousteau Island, his moment of triumph arrived. His reel screamed, and with calm determination he began to work the line. Suddenly, a flash of gold burst from the water - a massive dorado, leaping on the surface. With John by his side and the seas rolling, the two worked flawlessly as a team. When John finally gaffed the shimmering beauty, we measured an impressive 43 inches. Dylan beamed, energized by the thrill, and unfazed by the rough sea state.
By 2:30 p.m., we rounded the point into Bahía Los Muertos, joining a small gathering of boats already at anchor. As we settled in, a dark shape broke the surface in the distance—then again, even higher. A giant manta ray, launching itself into the air, as if offering us a spectacular “welcome back.”
With so much fresh fish aboard, we decided to skip the dinghy ride to the beach restaurant and instead embraced an afternoon of leisure. We swam in the clear, cool water while kiteboarders zipped past Nirvana, their colorful sails streaking across the bay.
That evening, Dylan mixed his new signature cocktail—the La Paz Maracuyá Margarita—while preparing tuna sashimi and dorado steaks. Paired with garlic broccoli and coconut rice, it was the perfect finale to a day at sea that had given us beauty, bounty, and joy.
Day 40 – Monday, December 8, 2025
Early mornings will never be our specialty, but we’re improving with practice. After just one night in Bahía Muertos, we felt a bit reluctant to leave, yet this was always meant to be a simple stopover. As we raised anchor, we paused to appreciate the gifts the bay had offered: a full moon, a sky blanketed in stars, and a stunning sunrise illuminating the water as we set our course for Bahía Los Frailes.
The seas, however, had other plans. Confused waves and persistent winds made for a tiring, uncomfortable journey. Bottles and dishes clattered in the cabinets below—luckily surviving the chaos—as John worked through a series of course changes to steady Nirvana’s motion. In the end, it was simply one of those passages you endure with a grin, a sigh, and a strong hand on the rail.
Despite the chop and steady 20-knot winds, Nirvana handled the conditions with grace. Ever hopeful, Dylan continued trolling, refusing to let the sea’s mood discourage him. He briefly hooked another large dorado, but it slipped away. The only fish brought to the boat was a small Skipjack, which earned its freedom.
As we approached Los Frailes, the winds intensified, giving us a dramatic grand finale before we slipped behind the protective curve of the bay. Inside, we found five boats anchored serenely in calm, glassy water - exactly the reassurance we needed after six hours at sea.
Frailes welcomed us with warm air, steady breezes, and the stunning landscape we remembered. Thanks to the recent rains, the mountains appeared greener and more alive than on our previous visit. We rewarded ourselves with a refreshing swim in the crystalline water before turning to dinner preparations.
Once again, Chef Dylan led the charge, plating beautiful sashimi and crafting yellowtail tacos—a collaborative delicious effort. The only casualty of the day was the discovery that our microwave was no longer working. Other than that, we felt full, content, and grateful to be still as we drifted into a peaceful sleep in the quiet anchorage of Los Frailes.
Day 41 – Tuesday, December 9, 2025
Knowing we’d gain an hour when crossing into Puerto Vallarta’s time zone, we sleepily departed Los Frailes at 6:15 a.m. - a full hour earlier than planned. Our reward for the groggy start was magnificent: a brilliant vermilion sky, cirrostratus clouds painted like watercolors, and an awe-inspiring sunrise. Dylan received an extra gift when he spotted a whale breaching in the distance, its silhouette briefly etched against the glowing morning sky.
We anticipated two full days at sea—about 34 hours—with an expected arrival at Marina La Cruz around 4:30 p.m. tomorrow. John had studied the weather models carefully and warned that the early part of the trip would mimic yesterday’s conditions: “washing-machine” seas, 18–22 knots of wind chop, and a whole lot of rolling. He was, unfortunately, correct. For the first six hours we bashed into the waves, hanging on and counting the minutes. Thankfully, by noon the sea state eased, and the ride became far more tolerable. Another bonus: Nirvana was flying, averaging 9.6 knots—well above our usual 8.2.
Dylan was eager to fish, but given the rough conditions we collectively decided it was wiser to postpone. Instead, we traded off nap shifts, held out as long as we could for a noon lunch, caught up on messages, scrolled some social media, and did our best to stay comfortable and hydrated.
A hundred miles offshore, the scenery is minimal: a distant sailboat, a lumbering tug, and endless waves—one after another after another. But then, a splash of unexpected life arrived. A curious brown seabird soared overhead, circled us with purpose, and chose our railing as its personal landing perch. He wobbled awkwardly on the bow, gazing serenely at the sea while vigorously preening his feathers.
A little research revealed our hitchhiker was a juvenile Brown-footed Booby, native to these waters. His clumsy bobbing stance inspired the name Bobby the Booby. Within minutes, he was joined by a companion—Bobette—and over the next two hours three more boobies joined the party. Apparently, this is common: boobies are social creatures who love hitchhiking on boats traveling at steady speeds, where they feel safe.
Boobies spend a tremendous amount of time preening. Their feathers are essential for both flight and hunting, and a gland near the tail produces oils they spread meticulously over their plumage. Watching the five of them lined up along our rail—stretching, fluffing, grooming, and striking dramatic poses—they resembled beauty-pageant contestants prepping for the catwalk.
By 3 p.m., conditions had mellowed enough for Dylan to drop in the fishing lines, though no action followed. As the afternoon faded, we began preparing our “travel meal”—a comforting pot of chili, while the juvenile boobies provided us with “TV entertainment” as they played an enthusiastic game of king of the hill. After a flurry of jostling, squawking, and downright dirtiness, the alpha male claimed the prime rail space, inviting only a couple of his chosen companions to remain for the overnight passage.
With just the three of us aboard, our night-watch rotation shifted to three hours on, six hours off, a surprisingly manageable pattern. After finishing my shift at 2 a.m., I headed to our cabin, stopping at the head along the way. In the dim light, I noticed something on the floor, a shape about the size of my toothbrush. I reached down, only to grab something soft, gooey, and distinctly not a toothbrush. A startled little squid had launched itself through the porthole and, true to squid nature, released a generous spray of ink across the bathroom rug. Ugh!
Day 42 – December 10, 2025
The alarm rang at 7:45 am and I was scheduled to relieve Dylan from watch. My first impression of the morning was that the seas were calmer, and it was balmy and sunny – much warmer than La Paz. Dylan greeted me with, “Well, we survived the night!” Apparently so did the Booby clan, who were still happily perched on the bow.
Today we passed a series of small islands, Las Islas Marías, which are an archipelago off the Pacific coast of Mexico and belong to the state of Nayarit.
They include four main islands:
Isla María Madre (the largest)
Isla María Magdalena
Isla María Cleofas
Isla San Juanito
From 1905 to 2019, Isla María Madre housed a federal penitentiary, the Islas Marías Penal Colony. It was one of the most isolated prisons in Mexico. The government closed the prison in 2019 and soon after, the islands became a destination for environmental education, cultural preservation, and sustainable tourism. Additionally, because of their ecological importance, in 2010, islands were designated as the Islas Marías Biosphere Reserve, meaning that fishing and boating are highly regulated.
Employing the tuna spreaders Chris loaned him, Dylan continues his ongoing quest to reel in a big tuna.
Approaching Punta Mita with the Islands of San Benicio off our beam filled us with a deep sense of gratitude and excitement. Despite the overcast skies, our spirits were lifted knowing we were nearing the end of our 34-hour passage. As if to welcome us home, a pod of dolphins gleefully zipped past the bow — a fitting sight, considering that Puerto Vallarta and Santa Barbara are sister cities, linked by Bud Bottoms and Octavio González’s beautiful dolphin fountain, Fuente de la Amistad (Friendship Fountain).
Our next greeting came from a pair of whales, each lifting and flipping its tail like a friendly wave. One final sign of “home” followed when, after so many hours at sea, Dylan’s reel suddenly began screaming, “Fish on!” Our excitement dimmed slightly when he pulled in a small Skipjack, but the moment was still celebratory — a classic arrival ritual at sea.
Entering a new harbor can be nerve-wracking, especially after such a long passage. Armed with a printed harbor map and our assigned slip number, we cautiously made our way through the entrance. Our first stop was meant to be the fuel dock, which posted hours until 7:00 pm — except it was closed.
With no choice but to proceed, we turned toward our slip. On high alert, we scanned dock numbers until we finally found our new home. Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite what we had imagined. The slip was narrow for our beamy girl, made even tighter by a large powerboat next door, and the dock itself was in disrepair, complicating line handling. To add to the tension, the wind pushed our stern sideways, sending stress levels soaring for all three of us.
Thankfully, a helpful security guard and a kind neighbor stepped in to assist. Everyone stayed calm as we carefully coaxed our water horse into her stall. Just when we thought we were settled, another challenge emerged — no shore power. We soon learned this was a common issue on the dock. Hot, exhausted, and slightly irritated, we fired up the generator and radioed for maintenance. To our surprise, Sergio the electrician arrived at 7:00 pm, confirmed that parts were needed, and plugged us into our neighbor’s power in the meantime. I’m not sure how the neighbor felt about that since there is a charge for electricity.
Dinner that evening felt well earned. We were grateful to discover Peska, a delicious harbor-view restaurant just steps from our dock. There, we toasted our successful arrival, savored our meals, and finally enjoyed deep, restful sleep — thankful to be safe in our new home.
Day 43 – Thursday, December 11, 2025
After morning coffee, John and I walked to the Marina Main Office to check in and address several issues we’d been having with our slip—its size, power, and neighboring boats. Switching between Spanish and English, we worked with Monserat to complete the check in paperwork and were reassigned to a new slip in Marina 3. From there, we walked over to inspect it and consulted with Aaron, a friendly and knowledgeable maintenance worker, who confirmed that this dock would be a much better fit. On our way, I was happily distracted by two cute iguanas basking in the sun along the dock.
Our next task was fueling and then relocating Nirvana to her new home. As we’ve learned, nothing here is simple—and nearly all coordination happens over the radio. Fuel was no exception. We called in and were told to arrive in 30 minutes, only to find two large yachts already fueling when we got there, which meant more waiting. To make use of the time, we motored over to our new slip to confirm that the power worked. As we approached, a group of teenagers cleaning a neighboring boat rushed over to help with our lines, for which we were truly grateful. We soon learned they were Aaron’s sons and employees—further proof of the genuine kindness we’ve consistently encountered from the local people.
Returning to the fuel dock reinforced the theme of the day: nothing is easy. Two small sailboats with inexperienced captains attempted to cut in front of us, and just moments later a sailboat was launched from a hoist, creating both collision concerns and a noisy backdrop of chaos. Through it all, Dylan remained calm and steady at the helm, guiding us safely through the mess. At last, we were settled in our new home - Slip B13, Marina 3.
Ready for some fun, we walked over to Cata de la Mar Bistro in the marina and were seated waterside for a fabulous seafood lunch, enthusiastically served by Osvaldo. “Cata” means “taste” or “flavor,” and the restaurant—connected to the local Catalina Fish Market—is named after the owner’s wife, Catalina. The meal lived up to its name in every way.
Satisfied and relaxed, we strolled up the road to visit the Tequila Museum and Tasting Room. The walk along the main highway was hot and dusty, with vehicles roaring past, but eventually we arrived and began our tour with Miguel, paloma in hand. While the tequila was quite tasty and the presentation interesting, the museum itself was modest, with little to see.
That evening, we cooled off with a swim in the marina pool—small but refreshing—while being obligatorily serenaded by a flock of zanates (great-tailed grackles). These loud, black birds make a daily sport of dominating the trees at dusk.
For dinner, Dylan struck gold once again, discovering a wonderful restaurant. We hopped in a cab and headed to Karen in Bucerías for gourmet, beachside dining—and it was absolutely perfect. As we departed from the restaurant, we passed a lively group of local teachers celebrating the holidays. I immediately bonded with them, swapping teacher stories and laughter, before we made our way back to Nirvana, grateful for another full and memorable day.
Day 44 – December 12, 2025
Now that we were finally settled—or so we thought—we decided it was time to get things in order. We scheduled Aaron’s sons to give Nirvana a well-deserved cleaning while Dylan busily packed his belongings, as this would be his final day with us in La Cruz. His departure was scheduled a couple of days ahead of ours so he could return to Santa Barbara in time for his work holiday party.
True to the ongoing theme that nothing is easy, John and I made a decision that a downwind slip would be easier to manage once we were operating the boat with just the two of us. So, once again, we moved Nirvana to a slip directly across from our bow.
With bags mostly packed, the boat relocated, and the cleaning underway, we headed to the Márquez Fish Market to retrieve Dylan’s fish, which we had left to be frozen and carefully packed for his trip home. The harbor boasts an impressive fresh fish market, with roughly fifteen vendors selling their daily catch. With Dylan’s departure time quickly approaching, we opted for one last leisurely lunch at Cata Del Mar Bistro, enjoying another delicious meal and warm conversation with our new friend, Oswaldo.
Dylan’s departure was far from ideal. The heat was intense, and he had multiple bags to manage, including a cooler filled with fish. Still, after 44 unforgettable days together, we shared hurried goodbyes and watched as Dylan closed his chapter of this journey. He has been instrumental to our success on this trip, and we know that operating Nirvana will be more challenging for John and me without his capable help.
After regrouping, John and I took a 30-minute cab ride to Nuevo Vallarta to explore Paradise Marina and attend a cruiser party at the Vallarta Yacht Club. Neither destination turned out to be what we expected. Nuevo Vallarta was wall-to-wall massive beachfront resorts and American businesses, giving it a distinctly Vegas-like feel. As we approached the marina entrance, we saw buildings but no water. While we had considered docking Nirvana there during our time in Puerto Vallarta, a friendly guard explained that we would need to return in the morning and be assigned a guide to tour the marina—something we’d never encountered before.
Next, we ventured to the Vallarta Yacht Club, only to discover it tucked into a strip mall with no ocean view at all. The manager was welcoming, so we enjoyed a cold drink and a brief tour of the club before quickly retreating back to the quiet charm of our village in La Cruz.
That evening, we took a leisurely stroll through the town plaza, admiring the colorful Christmas lights and nativity scene while watching exuberant children race about. Eventually, hunger led us to Ballena Blanca, where we savored a traditional Mexican seafood dinner—including lobster. It was another long, full, and productive day.
Day 45 – Saturday, December 13, 2025
With one less crew member onboard, Nirvana felt noticeably more spacious, and getting organized suddenly seemed easier. John and I spent the morning packing items to take home—most of them Dylan’s, along with tackling some much-needed cleaning.
By noon, we had things well under control, so we packed a beach bag and walked over to Beach Club Eva, conveniently located near the marina. While not as fancy as some of the clubs we’ve visited, Eva delivered exactly what we needed: beach chairs, towels, food, cold drinks, sunshine, and, most importantly, pure relaxation. We were more than happy to pay the 1,500-peso cover charge.
Not long after settling in, our friend Mark from Carpe Diem joined us, which was apparently part of his daily routine. When he heard that we were being charged the day rate, he spoke with the waiter and explained that we were his friends and should only be charged for the food and beverages we ordered. The staff happily obliged, recognizing that, like Mark, we would be returning customers.
A handful of vendors wandered the beach throughout the afternoon. A young boy, Iban, was selling woven bracelets and quickly became our friend after we hired him to make several gifts for people back home. Though he worked quickly, the project took nearly an hour. He shared that business had been slow due to the celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe, a day when families attend church and gather for an early meal. Later, we had a visit from a daring iguana, which was both surprising and entertaining.
After the beach, we wandered over to the marina pool, where we encountered an energetic group of cruisers playing water volleyball. They explained it was a weekly tradition—Saturdays at 4:30 p.m.—and invited us to join them in an already packed pool. We declined but stayed to watch, cheer, and socialize with fellow cruisers.
In the evening, we strolled through the Christmas Plaza and nativity scene in La Cruz, glowing warmly with colorful lights and echoing with the laughter of children. It truly felt like Christmas was in the air.
Hungry for a great meal, we stumbled upon Cueva, a traditional Mexican restaurant set inside an impressive cave. The interior was filled with rustic wood-trunk tables and decorated with every Mexican artifact imaginable—calaveras, sarapes, jarras, tequila bottles, guitars, and more. It was a visual feast, yet surprisingly, we were the only diners, aside from the owners’ family. The waiter explained that they had been busy earlier in the day due to the holiday.
We were treated like royalty, ordering a giant fishbowl-sized margarita and a combination plate so we could sample a bit of everything. The food was delicious, and we were pleasantly surprised by how inexpensive the entire meal was, an unforgettable end to a relaxed and festive day.
Day 46 – Sunday, December 14, 2025
With our flight home scheduled for Monday, we spent the morning tending to practical matters—checking email, packing bags, and preparing Nirvana to remain safely tucked into her slip at La Cruz Marina. Once our chores were complete, we walked over to the La Cruz Farmer’s Market, an expansive maze of pop-up vendors that began at the plaza and wound its way along the marina breakwater.
The sheer variety and number of vendors were impressive: clothing, handcrafted gifts, musicians, food stalls, and drink stands filled every available space. It reminded me of a smaller, seaside version of the Rose Bowl Swap Meet I frequented as a teenager. With Christmas just around the corner, I found myself overwhelmed by the abundance of choices—and the crowds. I managed to pick up a few gifts before we retreated gratefully back to Nirvana for some peace and quiet.
Since it was our final day in La Cruz, we decided to treat ourselves, once more to the Beach Club. A few more hours of swimming and relaxation felt like the perfect way to savor our last moments. We joined Mark at the beach and met another friendly vendor, José, who pushed a cart brimming with tempting nuts and sweet candies.
That evening, we took a taxi north along the coast to Punta Mita for dinner at La Pescadora, a spot highly recommended by Mark. The drive took about 25 minutes, during which our driver, Ismael, shared stories about his life in Mexico and his time living in Pomona, California. The waterfront, open-air restaurant was stunning, and we arrived just as the sun dipped low, casting its final golden glow across the bay.
Our meal was beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. As if the evening couldn’t get any better, mariachi musicians serenaded us with “Cuando Calienta el Sol,” my favorite traditional song. A silky flan followed, providing a sweet and satisfying finale to an unforgettable journey through Mexico.
Day 47 – Monday, December 15, 2025
Thankfully, our flight wasn’t scheduled until 2:00 p.m., giving us plenty of time to properly close up Nirvana and make our way to the airport. Our driver, Ismael, was unavailable but thoughtfully sent a friend in his place. Even on a Monday, traffic through Puerto Vallarta was heavy, a final reminder that we were leaving a lively, bustling place.
Check-in proved memorable. The American Airlines agent studied our reservation and passports with curiosity, clearly trying to determine how we had arrived in Mexico—he could see we hadn’t flown in. We chuckled and explained that we’d come by boat. With that mystery solved, we breezed through security, wandered the duty-free shops, and grabbed a decidedly underwhelming bite to eat.
The flight home passed quickly as we watched a slightly unsettling documentary about actor Charlie Sheen, whose family John knew growing up. We landed on time in Los Angeles, picked up a rental car, and made a beeline for Lovi’s Delicatessen in Calabasas. There, we hungrily devoured a gluten-free Reuben and warm matzo ball soup, a comforting and delicious homecoming.
Before we knew it, we were home, savoring the luxury of a king-sized mattress and drifting off while replaying memories of our unforgettable adventure. In the blink of an eye, we had departed paradise and landed squarely in the midst of Christmas.
