Adventures in Mexico
2026
April - June
Tuesday, March 7, 2026
Today was another low-key day as we prepared for our departure. The boat cleaners left Nirvana spic and span, John officially checked us out of the marina, and we spent time doing meal prep for our overnight passage at sea.
Our social calendar was light but enjoyable, an hour of relaxation by the pool in the afternoon, followed by an El Cid Marina potluck with fellow cruisers. We were grateful to Ange from Destiny for organizing such a fun gathering. It was especially nice to meet the crew from Aurora, John, Inga, Tim, and Will, who will be heading toward Los Muertos and La Paz around the same time we will. It always feels good to put faces to boats you’ll likely cross paths with again down the line.
Monday, April 6, 2026
Preparing for our departure on Wednesday, today was a workday. Computer tasks, a provisioning run to La Soriana, tidying up Nirvana—nothing glamorous, just the necessary rhythms of cruising life. It was largely uneventful… until it wasn’t.
At one point, I made a horrible discovery—the center stone from my wedding ring was missing.
I retraced my steps, searched every surface, every corner of the boat - nothing. I came up empty-handed… literally. It was one of those sinking moments that’s hard to shake, and I found myself feeling pretty despondent.
Sensing I needed a change of scenery, John gently nudged me out of my funk and back into the world. We ordered an Uber and headed to the Zona Histórica de Mazatlán for a return visit to El Presidio. Thankfully, the Semana Santa crowds had finally cleared, and what had recently been a chaotic trek turned into a quick, easy 15-minute drive.
Dinner, as always, was lovely, and a leisurely stroll through Plaza Machado began to lift my spirits. At one point, we even joked about replacing my ring with something from one of the street vendors - an idea that felt both ridiculous and oddly comforting.
A couple was performing nearby, so we settled into a café to listen. As the music drifted through the plaza, a balloon artist made his rounds, crafting colorful creations for delighted children. John waved him over and asked for something special - a mermaid balloon for me. When he handed it over, I couldn’t help but smile. It was perfect, resembling the tuba-playing mermaid statue in the plaza, a whimsical nod to Mazatlán’s spirit.
It was a gentle reminder that even difficult days can soften, especially when you’re surrounded by the right person and just the right amount of magic.
Sunday, April 5, 2026 - HAPPY EASTER!
Easter morning looked very different from our usual celebration. Before departing Santa Barbara, I had “hidden” Easter baskets in my closet for Morgan and Dylan. Typically, we would all enjoy a festive brunch together, but this year the holiday unfolded in separate places. Morgan joined the Thurmans in South Pasadena, visiting DD at her rehabilitation facility before gathering for brunch with the family at Mike and Michelle’s. Meanwhile, Dylan went home to SB for the weekend and celebrated with Colleen’s family.
From our research, it seemed that Easter brunch is not really a big tradition here in Mazatlán, so we opted instead for a beachside lunch at Diego’s.
It was a beautiful day, and the beach was alive with families gathered both at the restaurant and along the sand. There was no shortage of colorful entertainment as parasailers launched and landed overhead and traditional bandas sinaloenses filled the air with music. Mazatlán is considered the birthplace of this lively style, whose roots reflect a blend of Spanish military bands, German and Eastern European influences, and local Mexican traditions. Brass-heavy and driven by a strong drumbeat, the music is meant to be played outdoors and played loudly. Some tourists may feel it interrupts the peaceful beach atmosphere, but the bottom line is that bandas are an enduring and beloved Mazatlán tradition.
There was so much to take in as we sat at our table, enjoying our drinks, lunch, and the vibrant scene all around us. Afterward, we strolled back to the resort as hundreds of people continued pouring into town and onto the beaches. Naturally, all that activity wore us out, so we returned to Nirvana for a nap.
Just before sunset, our new acquaintances, Ron and Annie Hood of Steadfast, from Redondo Beach, joined us for a sundowner. They have cruised extensively, both here in Mexico and throughout the Caribbean, so there were plenty of stories to share. As it turned out, Ron even knew one of my sorority sisters from Oxy. A small world on the water!
Saturday, April 4, 2026
With my back finally feeling better, we set our sights on visiting El Faro de Mazatlán - the world-famous working lighthouse perched high on Crestón Island. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a sea of cars, swarming tourists, and a fair amount of confusion, as the area also serves as a hub for charter tours. Eventually, we were funneled into a line for group admission, since the number of visitors allowed up the hill is carefully monitored.
The ascent begins as a winding paved road, reminiscent of switchbacks, before giving way to a staircase of roughly 360 steps. Every 60 steps, your progress is painted directly onto the stairs. I’m still undecided whether this is motivational…or mildly discouraging! What surprised us most was the crowd: primarily Mexican families, many accompanied by both elders and tiny children, all making the climb together. Despite the heat, the mood was upbeat, almost like a marathon, with those descending offering encouraging smiles and silent “you’ve got this” support.
By the time we reached the top of the 515-foot hill, we were hot, sweaty, and definitely ready for water - but the reward was immediate. The panoramic views were spectacular: the harbor, the city, and the vast Pacific stretching in every direction. Being a Saturday, the line for the Glass Bridge was long, but we decided to stick it out. After removing our shoes, we cautiously stepped out onto the glass extension, taking in the dizzying views above, below, and beyond. Los Dos Hermanos, the tiny islands in the distance, were enchanting. Nearby, zipliners launched themselves into the air, soaring across the water in a mix of thrill and bravery.
From there, we made our way to Plaza Machado and settled in for a well-earned lunch at El Cielo, a charming, garden-like café draped in vines and tropical greenery. The jamaica juice with grapefruit was especially refreshing, and the meal hit the spot perfectly. We also rewarded ourselves with ice cream from a cute little pink stand. We savored this tasty treat in front of Teatro Ángela Peralta, while listening to an accomplished pianist rehearsing behind closed doors.
After an afternoon nap, we headed out for a late dinner at Yoko, a sushi spot near El Cid Marina. Sushi in Mexico can be…an adventure, and this experience was no exception. Our first clue? About 95% of the rolls featured cream cheese. While we have nothing against cream cheese, it’s not exactly traditional sushi fare! We managed to find two rolls without it and added some nigiri to the order, including marlin, which turned out to be surprisingly delicious.
The meal itself was excellent, but the atmosphere added an unexpected twist. Scattered around the restaurant were a few burly, “bodyguard-type” individuals wearing headsets, quietly observing the room. Curious, we wondered who, or what, they were there for. As we finished dinner, one of them approached our table, cleared the dishes, and then presented the check. Um…okay! Just another reminder that la vida es diferente aquí en México.
Friday, April 3, 2026
Still moving gingerly from my back injury, we kept things close to home (boat) today. Not exactly our preferred pace, especially with so many incredible sights to explore and limited time here in Mazatlán, but sometimes health sets the itinerary whether you like it or not.
John went to the gym for a workout, then we took the water taxi over to the El Cid Beach Club for a dose of relaxation, lunch, and a very brief (and cautious) swim. We greeted Lorenzo, our “hat man”, and settled in under a palapa for a delicious seafood lunch. Afterwards, we relocated to lounge chairs perched along the cliffs, where the views stretched endlessly across the ocean. It was picturesque, with tour boats cruising in and out of the harbor below while the nearby helicopter operation added a steady hum of activity overhead.
Back at Nirvana, we assumed our now-favorite cockpit seats just in time for the evening’s entertainment, the post-sunset tour boat parade. Like clockwork, the boats streamed back into the harbor: engines roaring, music pumping, and passengers singing (or enthusiastically shouting) at full volume – running lights optional. With the holiday crowds, there were more boats than usual, turning the scene into a lively, floating fiesta - free entertainment for those of us happily watching from the sidelines.
For dinner, we opted for a nearby Pancho’s Restaurant - a smaller, quieter offshoot of the beachside spot we visited last week with Mark and Dylan. It was a welcome change from the bustle of the Malecón, offering a more intimate setting without sacrificing ambiance. As before, the space was beautifully appointed, and the food and service were spot on.
Even though life handed us a few lemons with this back injury, we did what any seasoned cruisers would do - added salt and tequila, sat back, and enjoyed the margarita. Slower pace or not, we’re still grateful for every moment of the journey.
Thursday, April 2, 2026 - Mazatlan
Another visit with Dr. Backman was on the agenda this morning, and I’m so thankful we found him—my back is finally beginning to feel stronger. After the appointment, John and I set out for a long walk along the Malecón, stretching our legs for at least an hour. The heat was intense, but the ocean breeze offered just enough relief, and the lively sights and sounds along the waterfront kept us happily distracted.
As fatigue began to set in, we flagged down a pulmonía and zipped our way to the Centro Histórico for lunch at Totem, a spot both Mark and ChatGPT had recommended. It did not disappoint. The food was heavenly, and the shaded patio made for a wonderfully relaxed dining experience.
From our table, I caught sight of two striking yellow towers rising above the nearby buildings. Curious, we made our way over after lunch to visit the Catedral Basílica de la Inmaculada Concepción, built between 1856 and 1899. The cathedral is a stunning blend of Baroque, Gothic, and neoclassical styles, and stepping inside, even briefly, revealed intricate details and a peaceful grandeur that left a lasting impression.
We continued our afternoon with a bit of shopping and another stroll through Plaza Machado, soaking in the charm of the historic district.
By the end of our six-hour outing, we were thoroughly spent and ready to return to Nirvana. Unfortunately, Semana Santa was in full swing, and it seemed the entire city had the same idea. What is normally a quick 15-minute ride turned into a 40-minute crawl along the Malecón - but even that felt like part of the experience in this vibrant, bustling place.
Returning to the peaceful calm of El Cid Marina was a welcome change of pace. John spent the next few hours tackling the unpleasant task of scrubbing harbor sludge from the bottom of the dinghy - the inevitable price we paid for leaving it in the water for six straight days.
With no desire to venture back into the Semana Santa crowds, I prepared dinner. We ended the day exactly as we needed, quietly enjoying a relaxing evening onboard Nirvana.
Wednesday, April 1, 2026
Since it was April Fool’s Day, I decided it was time to stop fooling around with my strained back. We did a little research and found a local chiropractor, Dr. Steven Backman (yes, that’s really his name), and quickly booked an appointment. His approach wasn’t quite what I was used to, but I must admit, it made a noticeable difference. Encouraged by the improvement, I even scheduled a follow-up visit.
Feeling much better, we made a quick run (or hobble) to Fresh Market to pick up a few necessities before heading back to the marina for some much-needed beach time. As luck would have it, we arrived just as a wave of 300 cruise ship guests were loading onto buses - perfect timing for a little peace and quiet.
That evening, we made dinner plans with Mark, as it was his final night in Mazatlán. We returned to our very first dining spot upon arrival, Diego’s, one of his favorites. It turned into a celebratory sunset dinner, with the staff - especially our server, Nabor - making sure our guest of honor felt well taken care of. As the evening stretched later than expected, we found ourselves reflecting on how we met, the memorable time we’d shared, and what adventures might lie ahead—grateful for a friendship that had grown along the way.
