ADVENTURES IN MEXICO
JUNE 2026
June 26, 2026 Nirvana’s Homecoming!
By 3:00 a.m., we dropped the mooring and quietly cruised out of Avalon Harbor, guided by the glow of the Casino and the lights of the town. With the moon hidden behind a blanket of clouds, we relied primarily on our navigation instruments to lead the way. John took the first watch as Nirvana slipped silently across the calm sea. It wasn't until we rounded the east end of Catalina that we encountered the familiar bumpiness of the open ocean.
At 5:00 a.m., I relieved John at the helm. As dawn slowly brightened the horizon, hundreds of juvenile dolphins appeared around the boat, feeding, playing, and leaping through the water. It was a joy to once again be surrounded by our gregarious California dolphins - a fitting welcome home. Later, John and Dylan spotted another pod of dolphins, followed by three large whales surfacing and sending misty spouts into the morning air.
As we passed Anacapa Island, the ocean settled into a sheet of glass. We carefully navigated around two massive tanker ships while Nirvana glided effortlessly through the water at eight knots, allowing us to move our estimated arrival in Santa Barbara up to 3 p.m.
It seemed that, like the rest of us, Nirvana was eager to return home. After eight months of extraordinary adventure, unexpected challenges, unforgettable wildlife encounters, new friendships, and memories that will last a lifetime, it was hard to believe that today she would finally return to her slip in Santa Barbara. As the harbor drew nearer, we realized this wasn't simply the end of a voyage - it was the closing of a remarkable chapter that will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
Thursday, June 25, 2026 Catalina Birthday Bash!
Today I was treated to quite a birthday bash—one far more enjoyable than the infamous Baja Bash!
We began the morning with a delicious breakfast at Jack's Country Kitchen, savoring both the meal and a bit of nostalgia from past Catalina visits. From there, we wandered over to Descanso Beach Club, where we were lucky enough to rent lounge chairs for the day. Before settling in, I even managed to sneak away for a quick hike up the hill to Hamilton Cove, soaking in the beautiful views.
Our afternoon at the beach club was everything I could have hoped for - friendly, attentive servers, delicious food and drinks, no crowds, and a picture-perfect Southern California day. After the many challenges we encountered during our journey through Baja, we found ourselves especially grateful for the simple pleasures of effortless service, familiar comforts, and the ease of being back in the United States.
After returning to Nirvana for a relaxing afternoon nap, we took a leisurely dinghy ride around the harbor before heading ashore for dinner at the Bluewater Grill. The guys indulged my birthday wishes by ordering me my very own plate of ponzu scallops - absolutely delicious!
For our final celebration, we stopped by the Marlin Club for a carajillo. Celeste greeted us with a big smile and surprised me with a complimentary birthday drink. We spent time chatting with locals before enjoying one last peaceful cruise across Avalon Harbor back to Nirvana.
With a few final preparations completed for our 3:00 a.m. departure, we climbed into our bunks, reflecting on what had been the perfect birthday and a wonderful final day of our journey.
Wednesday, June 24, 2026 Santa Catalina is Awaitin’ for Me!
In true Catalina fashion, the sun greeted us early, creating the perfect start to a day of relaxation and rejuvenation. After days of schedules and passages, we all appreciated the luxury of waking up without an alarm clock.
Following breakfast, John tackled an unglamorous but necessary chore - hanging out the towels and gear that had been thoroughly drenched during the journey north. While the collection of damp items made Nirvana look a bit derelict, it was a welcome reminder that we had made it safely to our destination.
Later, John and I enjoyed a leisurely walk up to Mt. Ada, where we paused to soak in the spectacular harbor views. From that vantage point, Avalon looked as picturesque as ever, with colorful boats and American flags dotting the bay beneath a brilliant blue sky.
By lunchtime, Dylan joined us ashore for a little shopping followed by a delicious pizza lunch at Little Antonio’s. Pizza was one of the foods we missed most during our travels in Mexico, making the meal especially satisfying. We couldn't help but think of Morgan, who usually joins us for this traditional Catalina celebration meal.
After lunch, we wandered over to Descanso Beach Club to inquire about lounge chair rentals for tomorrow - my birthday. While there, we enjoyed the club’s signature Buffalo Milk cocktails on the deck, watching sunbathers relax and swimmers splash in the water. We also noticed patches of white foam drifting near the shoreline. Curious, we learned it was biogenic foam, a natural byproduct of decomposing kelp that can appear when warmer water temperatures accelerate the breakdown process.
By 2 p.m., we returned to Nirvana for an afternoon rest, which was followed by a ceviche happy hour with fresh calico that Dylan caught. Dinner was at Steve’s Steakhouse where we enjoyed a nice ribeye – something we had not eaten in a while. We went to bed grateful for a day filled with sunshine, family, and the simple pleasures that make Catalina such a special place.
Tuesday, June 23, 2026 – Passage: San Diego Harbor to Avalon
The 7:00 a.m. departure from San Diego was calm and relatively easy under cloudy skies, except for dodging a surprising amount of bull kelp on the way out of the harbor. Dylan, John, and I were excited to be returning to Catalina and spending a few nights on our friends' mooring, conveniently located next to the Casino.
Along the way, we passed a pod of slow-moving, sleepy dolphins that seemed in no hurry to start their day. By early afternoon, the marine layer gave way to sunshine, making for a beautiful crossing. As we entered Avalon Harbor, we were welcomed by an old friend-the iconic Catalina Casino, proudly adorned with American flags. Sharing the harbor was the cruise ship Firenze, preparing to depart after a day of delivering tourists to Catalina's shops, restaurants, and beaches.
By 5:00 p.m., the three of us were gathered in Nirvana's cockpit with a bottle of champagne in hand, ready to celebrate the famous Avalon 5 o'clock horn. This day's celebration felt especially meaningful given everything it had taken to bring Nirvana safely home from Mexico.
Dinner ashore was enjoyed at our family favorite, The Lobster Trap. We shared delicious bacon-wrapped scallops to start, while John enjoyed the sea bass and Dylan and I happily devoured lobster rolls. After dinner, we strolled along the waterfront, made a stop at Vons, and returned to Nirvana. As darkness settled over Avalon Harbor, we were grateful for a peaceful evening and the simple luxury of being able to leave the dinghy in the water overnight.
Monday, June 22, 2026 – California, Here I Come!
This morning, after months of adventure, countless anchorages, new friendships, memorable fishing stories, and the inevitable challenges that accompany life at sea, Nirvana was steadily making tracks north toward California.
Departing Ensenada at 7:00 a.m., she enjoyed a calm exit with no wind and overcast skies. The trip progressed smoothly, and at 2:45 p.m. the crew received their CBP ROAM trip approval, officially clearing their return to the United States. Whew!
By 4:00 p.m., Nirvana was in San Diego Harbor, fueling up before gliding safely into a reserved slip at Southwestern Yacht Club - thanks to fellow cruisers aboard Gr8 Escape and Dulcinea for the recommendation. With great relief, Teresa greeted them on the dock with a warm welcome.
Soon afterward, our family said our goodbyes and heartfelt thanks to Tee and Kevin, whose support, good humor, and endurance helped carry Nirvana through the rugged passage north from Cabo to San Diego. They then began the drive back to Santa Barbara while the family met Morgan in downtown San Diego for a tour of his new high-rise apartment.
Wow! We were impressed by both the amenities and the million-dollar views overlooking San Diego Harbor. The tour was followed by a delicious seafood dinner and a belated Father's Day celebration for John at the Fish Market. Later, John, Dylan and Teresa returned to Nirvana for a comfortable night's rest, grateful to be back in California and reflecting on an unforgettable Baja adventure.
Saturday, June 20, 2026 – Port Logistics
The day began with a visit to the harbor office, where the staff prepared the document package required by the Port Captain. The process took about two and a half hours, including the all-crew visit to the port captain, but John was grateful for their assistance in navigating the paperwork. While there, they also spoke with a local contact who agreed to take the laundry to a wash-and-fold service and gathered information about fueling options.
Unfortunately, the only fuel dock was located outside the harbor and across the bay, approximately 2.5 miles away at Coral Marina, making it an impractical solution. Fortunately, Octavio from the office came to the rescue, offering to drive the crew to a nearby Pemex station so they could fill their fuel jugs a couple of times until they had 50 gallons.
Beforehand, they made a necessary stop at an ATM to replenish their supply of pesos. Between the Port Captain's fees, the driver's services, the office assistance, and the laundry arrangements, their cash reserves had dwindled quickly.
By midday, the crew still had not managed to squeeze in breakfast. Once the paperwork was completed, they began the fuel runs-hauling the first load back to the boat, transferring it into the tanks, and then repeating the process with a second load. Cruising life may be full of adventure, but some days are devoted entirely to logistics.
Thursday/Friday June 18 - 19, 2026 Adios, Tortuga – Hola Baja Bash and Ensenada!
Midnight departures always carry a certain sense of purpose. While most people were asleep, Nirvana quietly slipped from Bahía Tortuga at 0000 and pointed her bow north toward Ensenada. Conditions in the anchorage were calm and windless, a welcome contrast to what they had experienced earlier on the voyage. As they cleared the protection of Turtle Bay and passed East of Cedros Island, however, the wind still made its presence known, blowing around 15 knots.
The long passage had begun. After prolonged bashing, the bow-mounted red and green running lights failed from flooding, requiring use of the tri-color masthead light. Fortunately, the stern and steaming lights remained operational. More importantly, the wind had finally eased from the relentless 22–24 knots they had endured earlier to 13 knots, then further to 11–12 knots by 1:40 a.m. the second night at sea.
The reduction in wind was more than just a comfort issue. For nearly twelve hours, Nirvana had been pounding into difficult conditions. Water continuously sheeted across the decks, flushing everything in its path. The constant slamming was exhausting for both crew and boat. In conditions like that, equipment can break loose, lines can foul a propeller, and crew movement on deck becomes hazardous. Even heavy items such as anchors or dinghies suspended in davits must be monitored carefully. The calmer conditions also allowed them to make good speed. Nirvana was moving along comfortably at 7.5 knots.
Of course, every offshore passage seems to provide a fresh list of maintenance challenges, and this leg was no exception. Water continued to find creative ways into the boat, including through the port forward dorade, the galley floor near the snack cabinet, the galley ceiling, the upper cockpit window seam, and even a cockpit line slot. Several alarms also demanded attention. A small bilge alarm refused to silence itself, while a temperature alarm on the secondary charger/inverter repeatedly sounded despite showing no actual fault. After careful assessment, it was disabled as an apparent false alarm and later determined to have suffered water damage, making it a total loss for the dump after getting home.
The sea claimed a few more casualties as well. One windshield wiper blade and a SUP paddle simply disappeared, likely carried away by the relentless spray. More dramatically, the pair of deck-bed cushions on the bow broke free and ended up hanging over the side of the boat, completely saturated with seawater. John turned Nirvana downwind and carefully retrieved them, dragging the waterlogged cushions back aboard and onto the aft deck.
Additional challenges included the forward head overflowing, leaving unpleasant brown water on the floor. The likely culprit was a failing duckbill valve, which will need replacement. The anchor also worked itself loose and required tightening with the windlass. Meanwhile, the air-conditioning units could not be operated because air entering the water intake lines caused cavitation issues.
Not every disappointment was mechanical, however. The crew unanimously agreed that the carne asada purchased at Walmart was chewy and terrible, earning a place on the growing list of things not to buy again.
The final challenge occurred as Nirvana approached Ensenada harbor. Suddenly, the engine began to sputter, indicating that the starboard fuel tank was nearly empty. The rough conditions had increased fuel consumption beyond what was originally calculated, leaving John uncertain how much fuel remained. He switched to the port tank, despite believing it was already empty. Once again, Nirvana came through and delivered her crew safely to the slip.
Finally, docked in Ensenada at 7:45 pm, Nirvana’s exhausted crew enjoyed a celebratory beer and tequila followed by a well-deserved dinner in town, then a late night at Hussong’s Cantina. The place was packed with locals enjoying mariachi music, singing, and dancing. The locals were welcoming, so much so that Nirvana’s crew stayed until 2:30 am!
Wednesday, June 17, 2026 – Bahía Tortuga – Final Day!
With most of the chores finally behind them, even the captain allowed himself the luxury of sleeping in on this overcast morning - Nirvana’s final day in Bahía Tortuga. Once everyone was up and moving, there were a few last items on the agenda, the most important being a trip into town for delicious tacos (and a burger), followed by ice cream. They also stocked up on a few final provisions, including a bag of Baja coffee beans purchased purely for nostalgia. After all, it was the first Mexican coffee of the trip, and it seemed only fitting to bring a little piece of Baja home.
Back aboard Nirvana, John contacted the marina in Ensenada to let them know the crew expected to arrive a day earlier than originally planned. Fortunately, the marina is able to accommodate the change, one more encouraging sign that their long-awaited weather window was finally coming together.
By 8 p.m., everyone had turned in for the night, hoping to catch a few hours of sleep before their 11:30 p.m. wake-up call and departure. Excitement is building aboard Nirvana as the crew prepares for the final leg of their Baja adventure. With Ensenada ahead and San Diego drawing ever closer, they are eager to make tracks north and begin the home stretch of the journey.
Tuesday, June 16, 2026 Tortuga Bay – Hurry Up and Wait!
It was a slow morning aboard Nirvana. With little to do but wait for a favorable weather window, most of the crew enjoyed the rare luxury of sleeping in. As captain, however, John is never one to sit idle. His morning was filled with the endless list of tasks required to keep a boat running smoothly - operating the water maker, swapping out the aft enclosure for the plastic windows, cleaning the head, stowing gear, doing laundry, and tackling countless other jobs. It takes a great deal of effort to keep everything shipshape aboard Nirvana, and John always approaches the challenge with enthusiasm.
At 1 p.m., the crew loaded into Ernesto’s panga for a ride ashore, lured by the promise of Puerto Nuevo lobster at the Sports Bar. Their servers, Herman and Lupita, did not disappoint the crew. The meal was so good that the guys immediately began planning a return visit tomorrow. During lunch, John also discovered that Herman’s sister is Maria, the owner of the oceanfront restaurant perched on the cliffs overlooking Tortuga Bay. It truly is a small world in a small town.
Still feeling pleasantly full from lunch, the crew kept dinner simple with chicken nachos. The evening was spent sharing cigars, playing another round of dominoes, and enjoying one final carefree night in Tortuga Bay. Wednesday evening will call for an early bedtime in preparation for Thursday’s midnight departure. Excitement is building as the crew looks forward to continuing north toward Ensenada. John estimates the passage could take approximately 46 hours if Nirvana maintains an average speed of 6.2 knots.
Monday, June 15, 2026 Bahia Tortuga – Onshore Adventure
Today, Nirvana’s crew enjoyed an onshore adventure.
Two days earlier, they had been told that the Sports Bar in town opened at 1 p.m. Arriving a bit early, they decided to stop at another restaurant perched atop the hill near the baseball field. The establishment felt a little sketchy, to say the least. Inside, there were no diners—only a line of locals waiting to pick up packages that appeared to have been shipped there for delivery.
Johana, the owner, paused her package distribution service and asked the guys, in Spanish, what they wanted. They requested drinks, cerveza, and food. She promptly delivered ice-cold Tecates, and the crew settled in. Sixteen minutes later, however, they were still waiting to order. More customers arrived for packages, but no menus appeared, no staff emerged, and no food seemed forthcoming. Deciding the odds of lunch were slim, Nirvana’s crew abandoned ship. Johana, however, seemed perfectly happy to collect the pesos for the beers.
Their next stop was the Sports Bar, where at least there were signs of life. A game played on the television while a group of men occupied one table, though the chairs at all the other tables remained upside down. The crew was informed that the restaurant would actually open at 2 p.m. So, they purchased a six-pack of beer from the neighboring mini-mart for 120 pesos - less than they had paid for the beers at the first restaurant - found a spot on the steps, and enjoyed a cold one. To pass the time, they wandered over to the baseball field, which now includes a soccer field, and leisurely worked their way through the rest of the six-pack.
Returning to the Sports Bar at 2 p.m., the guys were finally seated and greeted by Herman, the brother of Diana, who had taken such good care of our family during our visit in November. The wait for food was lengthy, but the meal proved well worth it. At one point, Kevin overheard a man at a neighboring table ask Herman, “How do you know these people?” Herman explained that he recognized Dylan and John from our previous visit and even showed them a photo of our family that Diana had posted on Google.
Meanwhile, Ernesto, the panga driver, displayed remarkable patience, waiting an hour and a half longer than originally planned before safely ferrying the crew back to Nirvana. Before leaving, they arranged for him to pick them up again tomorrow at 1 p.m., lured back by Herman’s promise to serve the house specialty, Puerto Nuevo lobster.
In the afternoon, Dylan and Tee continued their fishing success, landing several respectable calico bass that were quickly transformed into a delicious ceviche for dinner. The evening concluded with another spirited domino match between Kevin and Dylan.
Life in Bahía Tortuga is simple and, at times, a little crazy by our standards. Yet it is also wrapped in the beauty of its rugged natural surroundings and enriched by the kindness of its people, making it a place that leaves a lasting impression on those fortunate enough to visit.
Sunday, June 14, 2026 Bahía Tortuga
The first item on today’s agenda was troubleshooting the water maker issue. Although Nirvana still had a full tank plus another quarter tank of water, and additional water was available ashore, it was important to get the system operating properly before continuing north.
At 11 a.m., a great celebration erupted aboard when John finally identified and repaired the problem. The culprit turned out to be an air lock created when dock water had been run through the water maker as part of the purification process. Once the trapped air was cleared, the system sprang back to life and began producing water normally. Collective sigh of relief!
From there, the day seemed to fly by. Nirvana's fuel tanks were topped off, and a load of laundry was washed - the first spoils of the water maker victory. Lunch aboard was followed by a short dinghy ride ashore, where the afternoon wind made its usual appearance.
Later in the day, Dylan and Tee headed out fishing, or more accurately, catching. They returned with five calico bass, which were happily transformed into a delicious dinner of fish tacos. The crew has certainly been eating well.
Now all eyes are on the weather, with John hoping for a favorable window that will allow a 1 a.m. departure on Thursday.
Saturday, June 13, 2026 – Turtle Bay Arrival
By morning, the crew was encouraged by a calmer sea state, a hull speed of 8.2 knots, and an estimated arrival time of 11 a.m. in Turtle Bay. The prospect of stretching their legs, refueling, restocking provisions, and enjoying a few meals ashore was a welcome reward after several days at sea. Checking in with their boat buddies aboard GR8 Escape and Dulcinea, they learned that both crews opted to seek shelter in Magdalena Bay rather than continue bashing into the uncomfortable conditions.
Right on schedule, Nirvana arrived in Bahía Tortuga at 11 a.m. under warm, calm conditions and partly cloudy skies. The anchorage was nearly empty, occupied by only a single small sloop-a clear reminder that this was the low season. Once the anchor was securely set, they hailed panga driver Ernesto, who ferried them ashore to the wharf.
Their first stop was the Sports Bar, where they hoped to reconnect with Diana and Herman, the brother-and-sister team who had taken such good care of us during our visit last November. Unfortunately, neither was there. Given the slow season and the sparse number of boats visiting, it seemed likely they had moved on to other opportunities.
Later in the day, two new concerns emerged. The first was the weather. Forecasts suggested that the next favorable window for Nirvana's departure toward Ensenada might not arrive until Thursday, potentially extending their stay in Turtle Bay by several days. The second issue was also troubling: the water maker had stopped working. John spent time troubleshooting the system over the phone with the manufacturer, who suggested that a repair was unlikely. But anyone who knows John knows that "unlikely" is not the same as "impossible." Determined to solve the problem, he began formulating a plan and intended to continue working on it on Sunday.
After a day of travel, errands, and problem-solving, the crew enjoyed a quiet dinner aboard Nirvana before settling in for a peaceful evening at anchor, a few games of Dominos and some well-earned rest.
Friday, June 12, 2026 Passing Bahía Santa María
Captain's Log: A beautiful morning on our 415-mile passage from Cabo to Turtle Bay. We have been underway for 25 hours in ideal—and quite rare—June conditions. Yesterday's excitement included some outstanding fishing, with catches ranging from a mako shark and dorado to bonito and five yellowfin tuna. At 6:30 a.m. today, we were visited by a large pod of dolphins. As boaters often say, it never grows old watching these magnificent animals play around the boat."
Later in the day, Dylan hooked a fish that proved to be the catch of a lifetime-a marlin. The powerful fish put on a spectacular display, launching itself from the water and gyrating beneath the boat as Dylan battled to bring it closer. Given its enormous size, the crew decided to release it, allowing the majestic creature to continue its journey through the Pacific. Unfortunately, with the excitement of the moment, no one managed to capture a photograph, but the memory will undoubtedly endure far longer than any image.
Dinner that evening featured the pre-made stuffed bell peppers prepared before departure, a welcome and hearty meal after another successful day at sea. As darkness settled in, conditions remained pleasant until about 8 p.m., when the sea state began to deteriorate. While the wind itself was manageable, a series of short, steep waves developed, causing Nirvana's bow to slam uncomfortably as she pressed northward. John later described it as the first true "bashing" of the trip. Fortunately, the rough conditions proved temporary, easing around 2 a.m. and allowing the crew to settle back into a more comfortable rhythm for the remainder of the night.
Thursday, June 11, 2026 – Passage: Baja Bash - Cabo San Lucas to Bahia Santa Maria
By 5:30 a.m., Nirvana’s crew was geared up for the long day ahead and ready for whatever conditions lay in store. Departing in a light breeze, they soon encountered winds gusting to 24 knots after passing the iconic Cabo Arch at Cabo Falso.
Captain John explained, “The Cape draws wind that accelerates around the peninsula, the lowest land mass along the entire California coast.” Fortunately, the rough conditions were relatively short-lived. After about an hour and a half underway, the seas began to settle. “I’ve never seen so much water come over the bow,” John reported. “But Nirvana handles it like a champ with her 110-horsepower Yanmar and 20-inch three-blade prop. We’re currently making 6.5 knots over the ground. Our normal flat-water speed is 8.3 knots.”
The first fish of the day provided plenty of excitement when a 4- to 5-foot mako shark grabbed the lure. Fortunately for the shark, both his size and species spared him from being recruited as crew. Soon afterward, they hooked a small dorado and a large bonito, but both were released to fight another day.
As the weather moderated, the passage became increasingly comfortable, and the fishing improved dramatically. By late afternoon, Dylan and Tee landed five yellowfin tuna, keeping three for the freezer. With calm seas, favorable winds, and fresh fish aboard, the crew agreed that the conditions could not have been much better.
Wednesday, June 10, 2026 – Farewell Cabo!
Waking later than usual, I scrambled to pack my luggage while the guys slipped out for breakfast. The quiet time alone proved beneficial, allowing me to think clearly as I organized my belongings and decided which items to leave aboard for my return to Nirvana in San Diego.
Soon, John ordered an Uber, I said my goodbyes to the crew, and just like that, Marco whisked me off to the airport. Meanwhile, in a bit of maritime symmetry, Tee arrived in Cabo and made his way to Nirvana to join the crew for the passage north.
Back at the boat, John hosted our group, the “Baha Bashers”, the collective crews from Nirvana, G8T Escape (Erik and Amy) and Dulcinea (Ken and Monica), for sundowners, final weather discussions, and passage planning before the early-morning departure.
My trip home ran like clockwork, for which I was grateful - Cabo to Phoenix to Santa Barbara without a hitch. As I flew over the Wet Wednesday race in the harbor, it felt as if I’d never left Santa Barbara.
However, arriving home felt strangely surreal. The house seemed enormous, the quiet almost deafening, and being alone was a sensation I had nearly forgotten. Life aboard Nirvana is such a stark contrast - filled with constant motion, close quarters, shared routines, and the constant presence of crew and family. As wonderful as it was to be home, surprisingly enough, I already found myself missing life at sea.
Tuesday, June 9, 2026 – Cabo-ing
John awoke feeling much better, which was fortunate because this morning was something of a workday as we tackled a variety of tasks in preparation for our early Thursday departure. First, we hauled loads of laundry uptown to a wash-and-fold service that promised to have everything ready by evening. After a satisfying breakfast at Captain Tony’s, Kevin and I headed to Chedraui Select, conveniently located near the marina, to pick up a few final provisions.
Returning to Nirvana, we found Dylan and John putting the finishing touches on a thorough boat cleaning. She was sparkling from bow to stern, ready for her next journey. Knowing that I would be departing tomorrow, I spent part of the afternoon doing final meal planning and preparation, cooking a few more items to help keep the crew well fed on their voyage north.
In the evening, we ventured over to The Office for a delicious waterfront dinner. With the wind still howling, we were pleased to secure a table on the deck where we enjoyed both the lively atmosphere and beautiful views. The food was excellent, and the service was equally impressive. From there, we took a taxi to Slim’s Elbow Room - The World's Smallest Bar, which truly lives up to its name-just four seats inside and two outside. Fortunately, we managed to claim all four indoor seats, making it the perfect spot for a nightcap. Carmela took wonderful care of us, adding to the charm of the experience.
Back aboard Nirvana, we ended the evening with another spirited round of dominoes before settling in for a restful night's sleep. It was the perfect finale to my time in Mexico. While I look forward to returning home, I know I will miss the wild beauty of this country, its rich traditions, and the warmth of its people. Most of all, I will treasure the memories we've made aboard Nirvana and the friendships forged along the way.
Monday, June 8, 2026 Passage: Bahia Los Frailes to Cabo San Lucas
Some mornings arrive early by design, and others by accident.
Around 3 a.m., John was fully awake and sprinting to the head, terribly ill with what we suspected was food poisoning. Reminiscent of the infamous “oyster rebellion,” he was purging from every possible direction while battling chills and a pounding headache. It was a rough night—made even more concerning by the fact that we planned to weigh anchor at 8 a.m. for what would likely be the most challenging leg of our journey to Cabo.
Being the trooper he is, John was up before 7 a.m., doing his best to prepare Nirvana for departure despite his weakened state. As we left the anchorage, the wind and seas quickly became more aggressive, just as forecast. Of course, Dylan immediately dropped the fishing lines in, eager to repeat the success he had enjoyed the day before.
Thinking conditions would improve, I postponed making breakfast, but the sea state only worsened. Nevertheless, despite the hobby-horsing motion and intense cabin heat, I managed to throw together eggs and bacon, which we carefully consumed in hopes of keeping seasickness at bay.
As we approached San José del Cabo, the wind and seas continued to build. We forged ahead feeling as though we were trapped inside a giant washing machine. Spray crashed against the windows while Nirvana rose and plunged through the waves, reminding us once again that she was built for exactly this kind of journey.
A glimpse of the iconic Cabo Arch brought a sense of relief, but our challenges were not over. In addition to the boisterous conditions, we found ourselves surrounded by an armada of charter boats whose captains seemed to have little regard for the rules of the road. They charged directly toward us, stopped abruptly, spun in circles, and generally created chaos while their bikini-clad passengers focused on acquiring expensive suntans.
Amid the madness, Dylan’s reel suddenly screamed to life. He brought in a small skipjack while a pair of curious sharks circled nearby, investigating the commotion.
Entering the harbor provided little respite. Strong gusts continued to push us around as we maneuvered to the fuel dock before proceeding to our assigned slip. We took on 512 liters of diesel, including six jerry jugs stored on deck. With Turtle Bay, approximately 450 nautical miles away, being our next fueling opportunity, it was important to leave Cabo fully prepared.
After securing Nirvana, we headed to the marina office to check in. Walking through the crowded marina felt like running a gauntlet of vendors. Restaurant promoters, fishing charters, arch tours, jewelry sellers, taxi drivers, hat vendors - you name it, someone was trying to sell it. An additional irritant is that our boat is docked near the Nashvilla Bar where they blast loud country music all day and night. These are some of the less appealing aspects of visiting Cabo.
Back aboard, John was exhausted. Hunger and fatigue finally caught up with him, and he took a physical dive. After a much-needed nap, he awoke with chills and a fever of 101 degrees. While Dylan and Kevin headed out to celebrate over dinner, John and I stayed behind, missing out on the traditional arrival festivities.
Still, there was plenty to celebrate. We had successfully completed the first leg of our journey home, arriving safely in Cabo despite challenging seas, relentless wind, and a bout of illness. It was a hard-earned victory and an encouraging start to the long journey north.
Sunday, June 7, 2026 – Passage: Bahia de Los Muertos to Bahia Los Frailes
Morning in Bahía de Los Muertos is always lovely. Escorted by a school of rays gliding beneath the surface, we motored out, eager for the next leg of our journey. Once again, the seas were calm, the wind was light, and the conditions seemed perfect.
Suddenly, one of Dylan's reels began to scream. Like the day before, it was a large dorado that put up a tremendous fight. And like the day before, we managed to bring it alongside the boat, gaff it, and prepare to haul it aboard—only to watch it break free and disappear into the sea at the last possible moment. The disappointment was immediate and profound. Over the next several hours, we replayed the video repeatedly, analyzing every step and debating what we could do differently next time. The conclusion? Fishing from a sailboat can be surprisingly challenging.
About a quarter mile from the no-take zone off Bahía Los Frailes, we heard that familiar reel scream once again. Another opportunity had presented itself, and this time we were determined to get it right. We quickly assembled our battle gear: two gaffs, a bat, lines, and a camera. Adding to the pressure was the knowledge that we needed to land the fish before entering the protected area.
As Dylan reeled steadily, John put Nirvana in neutral and dropped the sails to slow our drift. Soon we spotted the unmistakable golden-green flash near the surface—another dorado. Carefully following our now well-rehearsed protocol, we brought the fish alongside and, at last, onto the deck.
But the battle wasn't over.
The dorado exploded into a frenzy, thrashing so violently that it nearly flopped its way back into the ocean. In the midst of the chaos, Kevin stepped in with the bat, ensuring that dinner remained aboard this time. Cheers erupted all around as Dylan stretched out the tape measure: 43 inches. While not the largest dorado he has ever caught, after two heartbreaking escapes, it was undoubtedly his most prized.
Arriving in Bahía Los Frailes, we joined only one other boat at anchor—a stark contrast to our first visit when we shared the bay with nearly twenty Baja Ha-Ha boats. A refreshing breeze tempered the 85-degree heat, and our first order of business was a swim. Unlike Muertos, the current here was surprisingly strong, turning a casual dip into something more closely resembling a workout.
That evening, fisher-chef Dylan transformed the day's catch into fresh ceviche. Bright, flavorful, and enhanced with a touch of fresh ginger, it was absolutely delicious. Steaks, rice, and garlic broccoli followed, creating a feast worthy of the day's adventures. A spirited game of doubles dominoes capped off the evening, and before long we all drifted off to sleep.
It was a day we won't soon forget.
Saturday, June 6, 2026 Passage: La Paz to Bahia del Los Muertos
John has been studying weather forecasts for weeks in preparation for our departure from La Paz to Bahía de Los Muertos, Cabo, and especially points farther north. Collaborating with our marina neighbors aboard G8T Escape and Dulcinea, as well as consulting numerous online weather resources, his diligent planning paid off. The forecast was nearly perfect for our passage.
There was a sense of excitement aboard Nirvana as departure day finally arrived. After a fortifying breakfast at The Dock Café, Amy and Erik helped us cast off our lines, and we eased away from Marina de La Paz. We remain deeply grateful to the Shroyer family for providing such a professionally managed and secure marina during our stay.
The sea was glassy calm and the sky an endless shade of blue. At one point, I thought a pod of dolphins was leading us out of the bay, but as they drew closer, I realized they were mobula rays skimming just ahead of the bow. Soon their friends began launching themselves from the water in every direction like synchronized swimmers performing a choreographed farewell.
Meanwhile, Dylan set up the fishing gear, optimistic that the day would produce dinner. At 1:30 p.m., as we passed Jacques Cousteau Island, one of the reels screamed to life- the unmistakable “Fish On!” alarm. Catching a flash of green and yellow, Dylan immediately identified it as a dorado, and judging by the fight, a very large one.
The battle seemed endless. Each time Dylan gained line, the fish would surge away again, diving deep. Finally, exhausted but exhilarated, he brought the magnificent dorado alongside. John leaned over with the gaff and secured it. For a brief moment, visions of fresh fish tacos and celebratory dinners danced through our heads.
Then disaster struck.
As they attempted to subdue the fish, it slipped free from the gaff, splashed back into the sea, and disappeared. Since the hook had come loose as well, there was no second chance. In an instant, jubilation gave way to stunned disappointment. It was a heartbreaking loss, but we reassured ourselves that another opportunity would come along. Unfortunately, no other fish volunteered for dinner duty that day.
Unfortunately, no other fish volunteered for dinner duty that day.
Later, we received a visit from a brown booby who, like its predecessors, seemed to have selected Nirvana as its personal sea-going Uber. The bird settled comfortably on the bow and rode along with us for quite some time, apparently content to let us do the work while it enjoyed the scenery. Eventually, Dylan decided to test the bird's courage. As it turned out, bravery was not among its defining characteristics. At the slightest challenge, the booby quickly launched itself into the air and hurried away. We all had a good laugh and appreciated the unexpected entertainment during an otherwise quiet stretch of the passage.
Hot, thirsty, and hungry, we arrived in Bahía de Los Muertos around 6:00 p.m. After setting the anchor and getting settled, we rewarded ourselves with cold drinks and a swim in the balmy 84-degree water.
Feeling refreshed, we began loading the dinghy for dinner at Restaurante 1535. That's when the next adventure unfolded. As I stepped onto the boarding ladder, the carabiner securing it suddenly unlatched, leaving me dangling awkwardly alongside Nirvana. Having just showered, I was determined not to fall into the water. John grabbed my arms while Dylan maneuvered the dinghy closer. Somehow, I managed to swing my legs aboard and climb in. Remarkably, aside from my feet, I stayed completely dry—though I collected a few bruises as souvenirs.
Earlier, while trying to confirm that Restaurante 1535 was open, I had placed a somewhat confusing phone call. The employee responded to nearly every question with "Bueno, bueno," leading me to believe that, yes, it would be "bueno" to come for dinner. Apparently, my Spanish interpretation skills still need work.
When we arrived, the patio was deserted. The only ones there to greet us were the resident feline managers. Rufus the cat seemed particularly annoyed by our arrival and quickly made it clear that the restaurant was closed, and nobody was getting dinner - including him.
Undeterred, we enjoyed the beautiful sunset, returned to Nirvana, and prepared dinner onboard instead. Chicken tacos with cowboy caviar turned out to be exactly what the crew needed after a long day.
Despite the escaped dorado, the dangling ladder incident, and the closed restaurant, we ended the evening tired but laughing together. Somehow, even when things don't go according to plan, we always seem to have fun.
Friday, June 5, 2026 Dylan’s Arrival
This morning, we learned that the cruising magazine “Latitude 38” ran a story about our journey. Here is the link if you’d like to check it out. The story begins on Page 73.
After tidying up the v-berth, we eagerly awaited Dylan’s 1:00 p.m. arrival. As he approached the boat, I immediately sensed something was wrong. Dropping his suitcase on the dock, Dylan signaled to John that he was missing his backpack—reliving the very mistake I had made here back in November.
Concerned, we called the dispatch number listed on his receipt, which thankfully he still had. Just as before, the dispatcher was kind and reassuring, promising to call us back once he located the driver. While we waited, Dylan shared another stressful chapter of his journey. Going through customs, he pushed the infamous button—and it turned red. That meant a search. Since, like Kevin, he was carrying engine oil for us, the inspection was especially nerve-racking. Fortunately, the customs official barely gave the oil a second glance and waved him through without issue, though not without a few anxious moments.
As we sat waiting for news, I noticed an unfamiliar man walking down the dock and joked, “Wouldn’t it be funny if that was your driver with your backpack?” Dylan glanced up casually, then suddenly exclaimed, “That’s him!”
Sure enough, it was the driver. Not only had he tracked Dylan down at the marina, but he had somehow found our dock. We were both shocked, delighted, and once again, reminded of the extraordinary kindness and helpfulness of the people of La Paz.
To celebrate Dylan’s rocky but ultimately successful arrival, we made another attempt at Bismarkcito-this time with much better luck. Better yet, we arrived in time for the tacos served from 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. After enjoying our favorite scallop shots, we devoured an assortment of delicious tacos, including lobster, diabla with bacon-wrapped chiles, and a molote, a thick corn pastry somewhat similar to an empanada and filled with savory meat. A quick stop at the Cayetana store was followed by naps for everyone.
When dinner rolled around, Dylan’s choice was easy: NIM, our family’s hands-down favorite restaurant in La Paz. Although Karen and Marco were busy serving a private event on the patio, Rocío took excellent care of us. As always, the food was exquisite, and we were even treated to a visit from Chef Cristina. As the evening came to a close, we said our goodbyes with mixed emotions, knowing this would be our final night in La Paz.
Back aboard Nirvana, we ended the evening with a spirited game of dominoes. In a surprising upset, Dylan broke Kevin’s winning streak and claimed the title of reigning champion—at least for now.
Thursday, June 4, 2026 – La Concha Beach Club
Knowing another hot day was in store, we emerged from Nirvana and set out in search of some fun in the sun. Kevin was interested in seeing Costa Baja Marina and the neighboring beach, but unfortunately, we were unable to secure spots at either of the beach clubs there. Undeterred, we hopped into a Didi and headed to La Concha Beach Club, where our family had enjoyed several memorable days during our November visit.
The club was pleasantly quiet, occupied mostly by hotel guests. We were quickly seated on the patio, and before long Jorge, our waiter, had us enjoying delicious seafood and refreshing beverages. It was a beautiful day on the water, and a gentle breeze kept us comfortable despite the heat. A swim among the colorful little fish provided the perfect accompaniment to a relaxing afternoon.
After returning to Nirvana for showers and naps, we headed downtown to enjoy sunset from the rooftop bar at Hotel Catedral, located beside the beautiful Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace. With only a handful of other guests present, we soaked in the panoramic views as the sun dipped below the horizon.
From there, we strolled toward the Malecón in search of dinner. Our first stop was Bismarkcito, but our old favorite was broadcasting a soccer match at full volume-not quite the ambiance we were seeking. We then wandered over to Tailhunter, having heard good things, but decided to keep looking.
Our next Didi ride brought an unexpected surprise. As Kevin opened the front passenger door, he quickly stepped back and exclaimed, “Oh, there's a baby!” Our driver was a very young mother whose sleeping four-year-old occupied the front seat. The three of us squeezed into the back, still processing the reality that this hardworking young woman was balancing motherhood and earning a living at the same time.
She delivered us to the original Bismark Restaurant, only for us to discover it was completely dark and closed for the evening. After a brief scramble to come up with Plan C, we settled on returning to Tiger Nopal - and it proved to be the perfect choice. Once again, the food was exquisite, and our waiter, Ivan, greeted us like old friends. He even gave us hugs as we departed.
Back aboard Nirvana, we wrapped up the evening with another fiercely competitive round of dominoes - which, much to our dismay, Kevin somehow always seems to win.
Reflecting on the day, I was reminded that traveling in unfamiliar places often requires flexibility and patience. Things rarely unfold exactly as planned, but when you remain persistent and open-minded, unexpected experiences often become the most memorable ones. Along the way, you gain a deeper appreciation for the people you meet, the places you visit, and the many comforts and blessings in your own life.
Wednesday, June 3, 2026
With ample groceries to feed a small army, this morning was cooking day. I awoke early, hoping to beat the heat and cook up a variety of meal options for the guys on their journey home. As on our trip down, crossings can be rough so minimizing time at the stove is imperative so the crew can easily grab-and-go, so to speak. John cooked up a huge amount of bacon while I went into chopping mode – lots of garlic and onions, so the tears were a-flowing! By noon, I had mastered a few meal options – stuffed bell peppers, beef chili with turkey sausage, grilled chicken with onions and garlic for pasta or taco bowls, and sauteed burger for sloppy Joes, pasta or taco bowls. I carefully packed up the rations and arranged them in the freezer, taking photos so John can locate the items easily.
At 1:30 pm, Kevin, the first of our crew members, arrived from LA. We aptly nicknamed him “The Sheik” since he was delivering the “black gold” – the motor oil we so desperately needed to run the engine! After he settled, we headed to Anzuelo for consistently tasty seafood and air conditioning. This was followed by a nap.
In the early evening, we went for a little walk on the Malecon, followed by Kevin’s School of Dominos, where he reminded us how much we used to enjoy the game. Having eaten plenty earlier, we nibbled on light snacks and slept well.
Tuesday, June 2, 2026
This was another hot day, but we still needed a few more items before we could begin meal prep for the crossing from Cabo to San Diego, so we caught a Didi to the downtown Chedraui. Since our shopping list was short, we decided to walk back to Nirvana. It really wasn't that far, but the heat was relentless. To make matters worse, John had accidentally left his good walking shoes at our hotel in Todos Santos. By the time we arrived back at the marina, my body seemed to be chanting the same two words over and over: hot and thirsty.
In the evening, we met up with Amy and Erik, along with Monica and Ken, for dinner at El Mezquite Grill, a steakhouse they highly recommended. We shared the restaurant's signature chateaubriand, served family-style, and it did not disappoint. The perfectly cooked steak was tender, flavorful, and the portions were so generous that we ended up taking leftovers home.
We continue to enjoy getting to know these couples and look forward to reconnecting with them when we all return to California. It is comforting to build friendships with fellow cruisers who will be sharing portions of the journey north and, hopefully, many stories long after our Baja adventure comes to an end.
Monday, June 1, 2026
Knowing this was our last day, we moved slowly, lingering over each moment before returning to Nirvana in La Paz. Rather than rushing, we savored the relaxed pace that had made Todos Santos such a delightful escape.
For breakfast, we walked to the downtown Jazamango Café where we enjoyed excellent coffee, fabulous food, and a dining experience immersed in lush gardens and artistic décor. Adding to the charm was one of the employees' adorable puppies, who wandered about the restaurant "helping" with various tasks. Cyndi and Cathy, our pool acquaintances, were dining there as well, so we stopped by their table to say goodbye.
As we prepared to leave, the puppy bounded over and enthusiastically jumped up to greet me. I tried to catch her paws to keep her from scratching my legs, which she apparently interpreted as an invitation to play. Before I knew it, my wrist was in her mouth! Fortunately, it was all puppy exuberance rather than aggression. I quickly found a ball to distract her, and she happily raced off. It wasn't until we had left the restaurant that I realized I was bleeding from a couple of puppy-tooth punctures. John was concerned, but after thoroughly cleaning and bandaging the wound, everything seemed fine.
Our drive back to La Paz was largely uneventful, aside from a stop to add air to one of the rear tires. We hoped the low pressure wasn't the result of our off-roading adventures from the day before. Since we still had the rental car, we decided to do some provisioning before our upcoming journey home.
I have been on a quest to find what may be the holy grail of grocery shopping in Mexico: half-and-half. It sounds ridiculous, but it is surprisingly difficult to find. By this point, I had checked three different stores without success. Today I added two more to the list before finally striking gold at the Chedraui near the marina. My theory is that they stock it because they cater to a larger tourist and expatriate population. Whatever the reason, victory was sweet!
As part of our provisioning mission, we picked up Eric and Amy and made a pilgrimage to Sam's Club - another first for us. We loaded up on meat and other supplies to prepare meals for the trip home and considered the outing a complete success.
While John and Eric headed to the gas station to refuel containers with diesel, I returned to Nirvana to unload groceries. The afternoon heat was oppressive, with temperatures in La Paz reaching 95 degrees - nearly fifteen degrees warmer than Todos Santos. Yet another reminder of why we are looking forward to heading north.
Later, naps seemed like the only sensible response to the heat. The remainder of the afternoon and evening passed quietly. We enjoyed a chicken tamarindo dinner aboard Nirvana, watched a show, and reflected on our wonderful mini-vacation. It was a simple ending, but the perfect way to close out a memorable getaway before turning our attention once again to preparations for the journey home.
