ADVENTURES IN MEXICO
MAY 2026
Friday, May 29, 2026
Once again, our day began slowly until there was a knock on the hull. Amy and Eric stopped by to notify us that two oarfish had washed up at the marina's dinghy launch ramp. Eager to see these rare deep-water creatures, seldom seen by humans, we ran over to catch a glimpse.
According to bystanders, the two silver, ribbon-like fish, each approximately seven feet long with striking red dorsal fins, thrashed briefly in the shallows before dying. Oarfish normally inhabit the deep ocean and are rarely observed alive near the surface, making the sighting both fascinating and mysterious. We wondered what circumstances had brought these elusive creatures from the depths of the Sea of Cortez to our doorstep. This is one of those unusual Baja moments that many sailors hear about but never actually witness.
This evening was designated as “game night” with Eric and Amy joining us for Aperol spritz and a chicken parmigiana dinner. Later Ken and Monica joined our group, and a lively game of Mexican Train ensued. It was a magical evening invigorated by stiff competition and a good dose of laughter.
Thursday, May 28, 2026 – La Paz Lazy Day
In the heat, sometimes you just need to hunker down and take it easy. That’s pretty much what we did today - mucho de nada! I spent time working on the Blog, which has been plagued by technical issues and continues to be a source of frustration. John attended his Spanish class, worked on chart plotting for our trek home, and celebrated a victory when he secured slips in Cabo and Ensenada. This will make it much easier to exchange crew and provision the boat on our journey north.
Of course, all this nothingness naturally led to the need for a nap.
By late afternoon, as pangs of guilt over our inactivity began to set in and the temperatures eased slightly, we pulled ourselves together and headed out for a walk along the Malecón. Immediately, we were struck by an eerie silence. There were no cars, very few people, and an unusual stillness hanging over the waterfront. Spotting an ambulance, roadblocks, and a complete absence of traffic, we wondered if there had been an incident and whether we should be sheltering somewhere instead of strolling.
Curious, we stopped to chat with a traffic police officer, who quickly solved the mystery. Today was part of the local celebration of Día del Estudiante (Student's Day), a holiday honoring middle school, high school, and university students. That evening, the Malecón would host the 2nd Student's Day 5K Race, and secondary school students were preparing to run along Paseo Álvaro Obregón, La Paz’s beautiful waterfront corridor.
As we continued our walk, we passed groups of excited students dressed in matching school uniforms, laughing and gathering with friends as they prepared for the event. Their enthusiasm brought a festive energy to the otherwise quiet afternoon and offered a glimpse into a community tradition we had not expected to encounter.
Returning to the marina, we joined Mac and Mary along with several other cruisers who had gathered on the dock for their customary evening visit. We learned that tomorrow Mac and Mary will fly to Oregon, where they plan to stay until October. Given that the intense summer heat of La Paz is only weeks away, their timing makes perfect sense. At 7 pm, the conch shell blew, signaling the sunset.
We wrapped up our Lazy Day with a simple dinner aboard Nirvana and an evening show - a fitting end to a day that required very little effort but still managed to surprise us.
Wednesday, May 27, 2026 – La Paz Marina Camaraderie
It was another quiet day here in the marina. We took care of some online organization, phone calls, and a bit of cleanup. By noon, we were finally ready to head out for some marketing at the small Chedraui.
Of course, by then it was blazing hot, though walking along the Malecón helped alleviate some of the discomfort. Unfortunately, our trek home was even hotter and, honestly, pretty miserable. Hot and hungry, we gratefully recouped aboard Nirvana - once again thankful for air conditioning! John attended a webinar on weather routing with PredictWind, and afterward naps quickly made their way onto the to-do list.
In the evening, we were invited to join Eric and Amy aboard s/v G8T Escape. It’s always enjoyable to visit other boats and admire the unique features and clever ideas each one offers. We were also joined by Ken and Monica from s/v Dulcinea, their longtime friends from Southwestern Yacht Club in San Diego. Eric served exquisitely crafted, freshly squeezed grapefruit cocktails while we enjoyed lively storytelling, laughter, and the easy camaraderie of cruising friends. Since our group will be traveling together for the journey home, it was encouraging to exchange ideas, plans, and strategies for the passage north.
For dinner, we were excited to try a new restaurant, Casa Nopal & Tiger Club, located in Zona Centro, La Paz’s historic downtown district. The Asian-inspired cuisine was unique and delicious, served as flavorful shareable plates that made the meal even more fun. Another highlight was the artwork - tiger décor and adorable tiger drawings created by diners of all ages and taped throughout the restaurant. Being from South Pasadena, the “Home of the Tigers,” I found this especially endearing.
After dinner, we managed to secure a cozy corner table at Mescalería La Miserable, just a few steps away from the restaurant. With its younger, bohemian vibe, Morgan and Dylan tried to take us there a few months ago, but it was packed since it is considered one of the best-known mezcal bars in La Paz. Personally, John and I are not exactly “mezcal aficionados,” but with guidance from our friends, we discovered and enjoyed a new treat - yet another reminder that some of the best travel experiences come from simply being willing to try something new.
Tuesday, May 26, 2026 - Marina de La Paz
More errands, more projects today. John spent a good part of the day troubleshooting an oil issue that developed when he set out to change the oil. When he tried to purchase replacement 30W transmission oil, he was told it was unavailable in Mexico. This seemed highly implausible since, in the U.S., it is the standard oil used in many older cars - and there are certainly plenty of old cars down here! He checked everywhere imaginable, including the marine store, AutoZone, Walmart, and even a specialty supplier called Lubricantes Peninsulares, but came up empty-handed. The main issue is that we cannot run the engine until the oil is replaced. Worst case, we may ask Kevin or Dylan to bring down a couple of liters when they join us.
The second project on the list involved exploring how to convert the air conditioning system to operate off the alternator rather than the generator while underway. Remembering our hot and sweaty trip south, this modification could make overnight passages much more comfortable by allowing off-watch crew members to sleep in cool air.
Another important project was stopping a leak in the aft cabin, our stateroom, which suddenly appeared during our travels. Using epoxy and a cutout from a tennis ball, John “MacGyvered” together a plug. Now we’ll simply cross our fingers and hope it works!
The skies remained overcast and the day seemed to drift by quickly. The afternoon air felt cooler (only 85 degrees) so we took a quick stroll down the Malecón. Meanwhile, back at the marina, Mac and Mary Shroyer had gathered on the dock with fellow cruisers for one of their regular afternoon socials. The Shroyers are the owners of Marina de La Paz, and Mac is known as the “Founder of the Mexican Panga.” They have wonderful senses of humor and no shortage of fascinating adventures to share, so we happily joined the group.
Here’s a link to their unique history in Mexico:
Club Cruceros – History of Marina de La Paz
Back aboard Nirvana, I tried my hand at making a mole dish. In all honesty, I cheated a bit, relying on a handy jar of Doña María mole mix combined with sautéed onions and chicken breasts. Frankly, it was surprisingly delicious!
Monday, May 25, 2026 – Marina de La Paz
Following our whirlwind “Tour de Morgan,” life grew substantially quieter as our focus returned to boat maintenance, laundry, groceries, and everyday harbor life. We already missed Morgan and the rapid pace of exploration but it was also nice to slow down, regroup, and relax.
I awoke early, eager to update our blog with stories and photos from our recent adventures, only to be reminded that even the best-laid plans can go astray. After working for nearly two hours, I felt accomplished - finally believing I was getting caught up - until one rogue keystroke caused the website to crash, erasing all my efforts. John experienced a similar frustration as he struggled to finish the oil change he had started on Saturday. Apparently, it was just one of those days!
We regrouped over lunch, then headed to Walmart to stock up on supplies as we begin shifting our focus toward preparations for our eventual return trip to California.
John has carefully crafted a plan in which our friend Kevin will arrive on June 3rd, followed by Dylan on June 5th. The next morning we’ll depart La Paz and begin our northbound journey with a passage to one of our favorite anchorages, Bahía de Los Muertos. After spending a night or two there and monitoring the weather, we hope to continue to Bahía de Los Frailes, another cherished stop. From there, the next leg will take us to Cabo where we’ll complete final provisioning before the offshore journey begins.
In Cabo, our friend Thomas (“Tee”) will join Nirvana for the passage from Cabo to San Diego. Initially, I had planned to make the entire trip north with the crew, but some issues at home are calling my name. Once Nirvana is fully provisioned and shipshape, I’ll fly back to Santa Barbara while the four guys tackle the journey often referred to as the “Baja Bash” — Cabo to Bahía Santa Maria, then Bahía Tortuga, Ensenada, and finally San Diego. I’ll swap places with Tee there and join the final leg home to Santa Barbara. It’s been quite the logistical dance for John to choreograph and, as always, Mother Nature will ultimately direct the production!
In the evening, Eric and Amy from s/v GR8 Escape joined us aboard for sundowners. Since they are from San Diego, we discovered we had much in common and, as cruisers often do, thoroughly enjoyed swapping boating stories and travel experiences. Like us, they are preparing to take their boat back to San Diego.
Later we walked over to a local taco place, Taquerías El Paisa, for a tasty dinner. I tried a new dish - papa rellena - which is essentially a baked potato stuffed with cheese and your choice of meat or seafood. Add toppings from the salsa bar and it becomes a deliciously satisfying and filling meal!
Returning from dinner, we discovered that the aft air conditioning was no longer blowing cold air. Fortunately, my resident engineer quickly diagnosed the issue - the filter screen was completely covered in dust - ick. Within minutes, he had it cleaned and once again we were enjoying cool air.
Sunday, May 24, 2026
Today, once again, the weather had changed - sunny with just enough cloud cover to create the perfect day for a visit to Cardón, the highly recommended hilltop restaurant majestically perched above Puerta Cortés. With sweeping views of the Sea of Cortez, the Puerta Cortés Marina, and the Gary Player Golf Course, it is a coveted destination for leisurely brunches and sunset dinners alike.
Driving up to the restaurant, we were awestruck by the scenery, then equally impressed by the prix fixe brunch menu. The experience features five courses - starters, seafood dishes, tacos, egg selections, and desserts - from which guests may choose one item or sample them all, with unlimited selections from each category. We had great fun sharing and tasting the various dishes, and every morsel was exceptional.
On the way home, we stopped at La Cayetana liquor store where Morgan picked out a nice bottle of tequila as a gift for a friend. From there, we endured a hot and humid walk back to Nirvana. After packing for his departure, Morgan called for a ride to the airport and, just like that, our visit together was over.
Saturday, May 23, 2026 – Espíritu Santo/Bahía Ensenada
Awakening to clear skies and comfortable temperatures, we decided to embark on a day cruise to Espíritu Santo, mimicking the local charter boats. Our destination of interest was Bahía Empachada (“overstuffed”), though it proved less exciting than we originally anticipated. Rather than dropping anchor there, we continued around the island to Bahía Ensenada - the spectacular bay we discovered on our previous outing.
Morgan dropped the fishing lines, hoping to reel in something delicious. As on our last trip, he hooked a small skipjack near the entrance to Bahía Caleta Partida. This one was released - as was a second later in the day. Once again, the fish won!
Nevertheless, as we entered the beautiful anchorage at Ensenada, we felt that we had won as well. The bay was calm and welcoming, with only three yachts anchored inside. One, named Pi, stretched nearly 300 feet long. Owned by Howard Schultz (founder of Starbucks), it occupied a good portion of the cove! We anchored, enjoyed lunch, then went for a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear water. Next, we paddled to shore to explore the white sand beach, transparent turquoise shallows, and striking terracotta-colored hillsides. Tiny shells and schools of juvenile fish dominated the underwater landscape, with one-inch Sergeant Major damselfish, juvenile baitfish, and delicate glass fish confidently darting about.
Unfortunately, just as we reached the small beach, three panga boats arrived chock-full of tourists - our cue to retreat back to Nirvana. John and Morgan paddled across the bay to investigate a small white statue nestled into the volcanic hillside, likely a Marian grotto shrine similar to those we have seen in other harbors, placed to protect mariners and memorialize those lost at sea.
By 3:30 p.m., we weighed anchor and began our scenic journey back toward the marina, passing the impressive island of La Ballena (“The Whale”), whose silhouette remarkably resembles a giant whale rising from the sea, along with numerous inviting turquoise anchorages along the way. As the afternoon progressed, the winds steadily increased, affirming our decision to return to the harbor for the night.
Arriving at the slip around 7:00 p.m., we celebrated a safe arrival and docking - likely our best of the trip! John immediately extracted the oil from the transmission and engine (another victory), then we headed to NIM for Morgan’s farewell dinner. As always, the food was exceptional, and Marco and Karen took wonderful care of us. To top it off, Morgan, the working man, surprised us by secretly paying the check. As we departed, the staff asked Morgan when he would return. That’s the thing about this kind of travel - there is always a bittersweet feeling lingering beneath the beauty. It brings to mind the song We May Never Pass This Way Again by Seals and Crofts - a reminder to savor every place, every meal, and every moment together, because life keeps moving, tides keep changing, and nothing stays exactly the same forever.
Friday, May 22, 2026 – Playa Tecolote
Continuing to monitor the “squirrelly forecast” surrounding our elusive trip to Espíritu Santo Island, we decided another day trip would be the wiser choice. This time our destination was Playa Tecolote in search of warm turquoise water, white sand beaches, and a quiet palapa vibe. The locals rave about Tecolote, often declaring that compared to nearby Playa Balandra, “Balandra es para los niños!” With that in mind, we set off on the scenic thirty-minute drive, passing our old friends Bahía Falsa and Playa El Tesoro along the way.
Upon arrival, we were greeted with far more fanfare than expected. Young men enthusiastically directed traffic while others eagerly thrust menus into our hands, each insisting their palapa and lounge chairs were the best on the beach. This was definitely not the tranquil scene we had envisioned - but this is Mexico, where one quickly learns to expect the unexpected! Politely deflecting the sales pitches, we wandered down the beach searching for a location that offered both a peaceful setting and prime people-watching opportunities.
Eventually we selected a lively but comfortable palapa restaurant, rented three loungers, and ordered some cold libations and food. Perfect! …until it wasn’t. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a lone drummer setting up directly behind Morgan’s chair and instantly knew what was coming — BANDAS! As you may recall from our experiences in Mazatlán, these roaming brass-and-tuba beach bands specialize in loudly serenading unsuspecting, and sometimes reluctant, beachgoers. This was the first time we had encountered them in La Paz.
Much to my relief, the bands mostly gravitated toward the more crowded palapas farther down the beach. One by one they assembled, blasting music only a dozen feet apart and creating their own chaotic version of a “Battle of the Bands.” At times it felt more like a high school football game than a peaceful beach afternoon. Still, the “Oompah Loompahs” as we fondly refer to them are entertaining in their own uniquely Mexican way.
After lunch and a refreshing swim, the three of us wandered toward the quieter end of the beach where we discovered a much more relaxed atmosphere. Many visitors there had brought their own tents, coolers, and beach gear, and only one laid-back palapa bar serviced the area. We immediately agreed that next time we would head farther down the shoreline away from the crowds. Once again, reinforcing our ongoing mantra: “We are learning!”
Despite the bandas, we truly enjoyed the day - swimming in the warm, crystal-clear water, lounging beneath the palapas, and indulging in excellent people watching. By late afternoon, one small group made up of two guitarists and a tuba player seemed to surrender to the competition from the larger, louder bandas. They settled in behind us and began softly playing melodic tunes, almost as if they were rehearsing for themselves rather than performing for the crowd. As we prepared to leave, John handed them a tip and thanked them for the music. Their expressions immediately shifted to surprise and gratitude, and their smiles made the moment feel especially genuine.
At 4:30 p.m. our driver arrived just in time because, without warning, the gorgeous sunny afternoon abruptly vanished and rain began pouring from the sky. Welcome to La Paz - if you don’t like the weather, just wait ten minutes!
When it rains in La Paz, water rushes downhill through the streets toward the Malecón, turning the roads into rivers and making for a very soggy evening for Friday-night revelers. Morgan selected tonight’s dinner destination: Janta Asian Pub, a trendy Asian fusion and sushi restaurant along the Malecón. The food and service were excellent, though apparently the restaurant is also a popular birthday destination. Throughout the evening, sparker candles resembling miniature Roman candles erupted from desserts while the opening verses of “Celebration” by Kool & the Gang played repeatedly over the speakers. By the end of the night, I imagined the staff was probably more than ready for a different soundtrack!
Thursday, May 21, 2026 – Todos Santos and Playa Cerritos Day Trip
Following a semi-sleepless night and another windy forecast, we contacted Eric and Julie aboard Ocean Love - a couple we met in Tenacatita who were anchored at Salinita on Espíritu Santo. They confirmed that conditions were indeed blowing hard, at times reaching 26 knots, so collectively we made the decision to alter our plans and return to the slip. “We are learning!” has become a common phrase on this trip. The weather patterns around La Paz are far less predictable than what we are accustomed to in Santa Barbara. Additionally, these anchorages are still new to us, so unlike the local charter captains, we are not yet experts on the prime locations for comfortable overnight anchoring in windy conditions. For now, caution continues to guide our decisions.
Once settled safely back in the marina, we were determined not to waste the day. After a bit of research, we arranged a spontaneous road trip to Todos Santos and Playa Cerritos with our driver, Ulysses. It turned out to be the perfect day to explore Todos Santos - the town was pleasantly uncrowded, the sun was shining, and the temperatures were ideal for wandering. Since Morgan stayed there recently, he naturally became our personal tour guide.
We strolled through the plaza and along the colorful main street, passing charming restaurants, boutiques, galleries, and of course the infamous Hotel California. From there we stopped at Tequila Town where the incredibly knowledgeable owner guided us through several tequila tastings and shared fascinating stories about the production process.
By then hunger was setting in, so Morgan led us to Jazamango, a beautiful farm-to-table restaurant and organic farm created by renowned Mexican chef Javier Plascencia. Surrounded by lush gardens and a vine-covered outdoor patio, the setting was stunning. We arrived a bit before the lunch rush and became the restaurant’s first guests of the day, receiving warm, attentive service. Every bite was exceptional.
Ready for some beach time, we continued on to Playa Cerritos, the laid-back surf town where Morgan had spent considerable time during previous visits. He was greeted warmly by many of the locals he had befriended there. Charley and Pancho, who operate a small beach bar cart, mixed up excellent margaritas - the mango version was especially refreshing in the afternoon heat. We also stopped to visit Edgar at his surf shop, who generously offered us complimentary lounge chairs. Sitting comfortably with cold drinks in hand while watching surfers glide across the waves, we couldn’t have been happier.
Perched dramatically above the surf break, the abandoned Hacienda Cerritos still commands attention with its grand Spanish-style architecture. Sadly, the property now sits closed and visibly deteriorating. Rumor has it that disputes between the property owners and landowners resulted in a forced closure. Someday, if it ever reopens, we would absolutely love to stay there.
Meanwhile, Morgan rented a surfboard and paddled out to test the waves himself, successfully catching a few rides here and there. One of the great things about Cerritos is the consistency of the surf - the waves just keep rolling in, offering endless opportunities to try again.
Cerritos has grown tremendously since John and I visited thirteen years ago, yet thankfully it has still managed to retain much of its bohemian surf-town charm. A few larger hotel developments have appeared, some already abandoned, but overall, the area remains delightfully low-key, filled with beach shacks, casual restaurants, surf shops, and a scattering of beautiful homes.
Our drive back to La Paz was quiet and peaceful. Tired from a full day of exploring, we simply absorbed the beauty of the Baja landscape rolling past the windows - towering cardón cactus, rugged desert terrain, and tiny roadside towns scattered across the vastness. Dinner onboard was simple: leftover spiced chicken with roasted Anaheim chiles. Another wonderful day of unexpected adventure, even if it looked nothing like what we had originally forecasted.
Wednesday, May 20, 2026 - Trip to Bahía Falsa
In preparation for our departure to Bahía Falsa and Isla San Francisco, this morning was provisioning day. Once again, leaving the working force to field conference calls, we walked to the downtown Chedraui grocery store to stock up. Though smaller than the store farther down the road, it offers an excellent selection of food and produce. We finished quickly and wheeled our trusty Hulken bag into an Uber for the ride back to the marina.
Again, we made lunch on board while Morgan wrapped up his workday. By 3:30 p.m. we dropped the lines and motored out of the harbor, knowing this first hop would shorten tomorrow morning’s four-hour journey by nearly an hour.
There were only about five boats scattered throughout the anchorage, the air was incredibly warm, and the water was calm. After dropping anchor, we took a refreshing plunge into the warm water. Next we paddled over to the palapa bar at Playa El Tesoro, which proved slightly comedic since I sat crisscrossed on the front of Morgan’s paddleboard while he did all the hard work. We wobbled quite a bit but somehow made it across without incident. Greeted by the same woman who had served us on our previous visit, we ordered appetizers and drinks and relaxed into the quiet beauty of a Thursday afternoon.
Our return trip to Nirvana was a bit more challenging as the current strengthened and the wind began to build - a foreboding sign of what was to come. Morgan navigated skillfully while I simply hung on, and together we completed our short but very wobbly crossing back to the boat.
We had intended to BBQ chicken for dinner but quickly altered our plans after discovering the propane tank was empty and the wind conditions were steadily deteriorating. As we ate, Nirvana began lurching in odd directions, leaving us wondering what the night might bring.
Overnight, the wind intensified. The boat hobby-horsed relentlessly, creaked and groaned, while waves slapped loudly against the hull, making sleep difficult - especially with the hatches and portholes open in hopes of catching a breeze. At one point, I dreamt I was aboard the sinking pirate ship from the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland! Morgan admitted to having strange dreams as well. With our massive 110-pound Bruce anchor firmly set, we never doubted our safety — but comfort was another matter entirely.
Tuesday, May 19, 2026 - Exploring La Paz
Following our new morning routine, we enjoyed a cup of coffee before heading out for a walk, leaving Morgan to work in peace aboard Nirvana. This morning we redirected our route down Calle Insurgentes to the boutique hotel, La Posada, to inquire about obtaining a beach and pool day pass. We quickly realized that since the beach lies along the bay beyond the anchorage, the ocean water there is not especially inviting for swimming. The pool, however, looked sparkling clean and beautifully maintained, though the complete absence of guests lounging around it gave us a slight pause. After asking about the amenities and pricing, we began our hot trek back toward the marina, ultimately completing a three-mile morning walk. Some people do “hot yoga,” but apparently, we do “hot walking.” This sport doesn’t seem to be catching on since the streets were desolate!
Morgan took a break from work for lunch, so we enjoyed seafood leftovers from the night before - delicious for our stomachs, though perhaps not as delightful for the lingering aroma inside Nirvana for the remainder of the afternoon.
Later, John and I treated ourselves to another wonderful massage at Azul Spa, where, once again, Elli worked her magic and delivered excellent massages at a very reasonable price.
Once Morgan wrapped up work for the day, we walked next door to Marina Cortés and enjoyed dinner on the patio at Restaurante Anzuelo. John and Morgan selected beef dishes while I opted for a refreshing chicken and fruit salad. Dining entertainment was provided by a mobula ray that darted by on top of the water. To cap off the evening, we indulged in dessert at La Fuente, the nearby paletería/nevería. The decadent frozen treats were the perfect ending to another relaxing day in La Paz.
Monday, May 18, 2026 - Exploring La Paz
With Morgan working onboard, our leisurely retiree morning coffee routine needed a bit of adjustment. After enjoying a cup together, John and I cleared the dinette table and headed out for a walk, leaving Morgan to tend to conference calls and other work-related responsibilities.
Wanting a change of scenery from our usual Malecón route, I suggested we walk over to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, a prominent cathedral that feels more neighborhood-oriented than the formal downtown cathedral. Named in honor of the Virgin of Guadalupe, one of the most beloved and important spiritual figures in Mexican Catholic life, the church immediately captured my interest when we first entered the harbor back in December. Its striking dome stood out against the skyline, and ever since, I had hoped to see it up close.
The cathedral itself is relatively new, with construction having begun in October 1945. Funded largely through local parishioners and volunteer labor, it remains a great source of community pride. Today, construction workers were once again busy around the property, which apparently is so common that locals joke the cathedral is perpetually under construction! Even so, it was beautiful, and I was delighted to finally experience it in person.
As we continued walking, John realized that the Museo de la Ballena y Ciencias del Mar was only a few blocks away - another La Paz “bucket list” destination I had been eager to visit. Along the way, we stopped at Coronel Café Restaurante for iced coffee and fresh green juice before exploring the museum’s fascinating exhibits dedicated to whales, marine life, and the Sea of Cortez ecosystem. Later we learned that today happened to be International Museum Day, which made the outing feel especially fitting and meant to be.
In the afternoon, John and I took another walk down the very hot Malecón, increasing our step count and sweat count substantially. Once Morgan finished work, we gathered aboard Nirvana for a relaxing “sundowner” before heading to Bismarkcito for a seafood dinner. As always, the scallop shots (non-alcoholic) were the undeniable favorite of the evening!
After dinner, we joined the lively flow of people strolling along the bustling Malecón and stopped in at Cayetana, our favorite tequila shop. We enjoyed browsing the impressive inventory while catching up with Paula and Damian - the store’s charming resident cat, who always seems happy to welcome visitors.
Sunday, May 17, 2026 – Morgan Arrives in La Paz
Today we eagerly welcomed our next onboard guest - Morgan! We were thrilled that he was able to carve out a bit of Nirvana time while still maintaining his aggressive work schedule, one of the great advantages of remote work. Just before his arrival, we squeezed in a quick walk along the Malecón to enjoy a little exercise and fresh air.
Following a late breakfast at the Marina Restaurant, the afternoon included a bit of napping - especially for Morgan, whose shuttle pickup had come painfully early at 5:45 a.m. Later, we hopped in a cab and enjoyed a slow drive down the Malecón to meet Chris and Phil at the beach club. At first, it appeared we might be relocated to the less fancy club, but fortunately, after a little string-pulling, once again, we secured spots at the coveted Blue Cortés Beach Club. With the strong winds finally beginning to subside, relaxing poolside in the warm sunshine felt absolutely wonderful.
As we had the previous day, we showered at the condo and spent time on the balcony watching the parade of yachts returning to the harbor from their weekend adventures. In the evening, we headed downtown for dinner at NIM.
Walking into the restaurant felt like a homecoming, with Karen and Marco greeting us with big smiles and warm hugs. We had so enjoyed their hospitality and energy during our visit to La Paz last December, and thankfully, nothing had changed. As always, the food was spectacular, and every detail of the meal was thoughtfully executed.
At the end of the evening, we said our goodbyes to Chris and Phil on their final night here in La Paz. Morgan, John, and I made the twenty-minute walk back home in unusually breezy and chilly conditions, with temperatures dipping into the 60s. By the time we finally arrived back at Nirvana, we were grateful to snuggle into our cozy maritime cocoon for the night.
Saturday, May 16, 2026 – Marina La Paz/Costa Baja Marina
Following a peaceful night and cooler temperatures in the anchorage, we began our one-hour journey back to our slip at Marina La Paz, jubilantly escorted by a playful pod of dolphins dancing alongside Nirvana. Once securely tied up, Chris and Phil gathered their belongings in preparation for a couple of nights at a condo in the Puerta Cortés Resort at Costa Baja Marina. We enjoyed a hearty lunch at Marina Café, dropped off laundry, and indulged in a well-earned afternoon nap.
Later in the day, transportation proved surprisingly difficult, as many drivers avoid heading to that side of town, knowing the return trip will likely be empty. Eventually we arrived at the condo and strolled along the beach to the exclusive Blue Cortés Beach Club, accessible only to members and guests. Phil managed to secure four coveted loungers, and before long, Chris had refreshing maracuyá margaritas delivered to our seats. We settled into complete comfort and awe, soaking in every glorious second of the afternoon.
After luxuriating in the simple pleasure of long “land showers,” we relaxed on the balcony for over an hour, mesmerized by the steady parade of yachts entering the harbor. Just as forecasted, the wind steadily intensified, sending strong gusts sweeping across the marina. This confirmed that Chris and Phil would not charter a fishing boat on Sunday. Soon we piled into the golf cart and held on tight for “Mr. Chris’ Wild Ride” down the winding roads to Majagua in the marina.
Majagua - the Spanish word for hibiscus trees commonly found throughout coastal Mexico and the Caribbean - combines modern décor, inventive cuisine, and exceptional craft cocktails into a spectacular dining experience. Ordering family style allowed us to sample an assortment of imaginative seafood creations and tacos, each dish somehow surpassing the last. Our waiter, Axel, was spirited, attentive, and impressively knowledgeable, adding even more enjoyment to the evening. To top it all off, Chris and Phil generously treated us to this memorable dinner. Needless to say, by the time we returned to Nirvana at 11 p.m., we drifted off to sleep almost instantly.
Friday, May 15, 2026 – Espíritu Santo/Caleta Partida Anchorage
We awoke to a perfectly glassy anchorage and wasted no time throwing the paddleboards in the water for another morning of exploration. John and Phil headed out first and returned full of excitement, reporting an incredible variety of sea life, including sea turtles, stingrays, and skates. Phil even spotted a whale skeleton in one of the neighboring coves. Later, Chris saw a massive ray trailing what looked like a five-foot tail, along with several stingrays gliding gracefully below the surface.
During my own paddle, I was thrilled to spot a sea turtle, a skate, beautiful orange-and-black king angelfish, and a rambunctious school of roosterfish splashing wildly across the surface of the water. All in all, it was a highly successful paddle adventure and a reminder of how alive these waters truly are.
Eventually, we weighed anchor and slowly cruised along the island to explore some of the many nearby anchorages - and there are plenty of them. Large mega yachts catered to their guests with luxurious beach setups scattered across pristine white sand beaches. We were especially enchanted by Bahía Ensenada, which boasts two spectacular coves tucked beneath dramatic desert cliffs. It immediately earned a spot on our “return visit” list, especially with Morgan arriving next week.
As we began our journey back toward Bahía Falsa, we soaked in the immense beauty surrounding us with artistic, wind-sculpted islands rising from impossibly blue water, calm inviting beaches, and dramatic volcanic landscapes unfolding around every corner. Once again, the fish proved elusive, but somehow it didn’t matter. Gliding across the serene bay while listening to Christopher Cross’s “Sailing” created the perfect soundtrack for the peaceful crossing home.
Following a short nap, we got suited up and headed over to Playa El Tesoro for some palapa-style food and drinks. The tide was much higher than the last time we visited, making it easy to pull the dinghy ashore before enjoying a refreshing swim in the warm bay. We relaxed and chatted with fellow boaters for a while, savoring the laid-back afternoon atmosphere, then returned to Nirvana to begin dinner preparations.
This evening’s feast featured the choice cuts left over from our previous steak dinner, fresh pargo ceviche, grilled chicken seasoned with Aleppo pepper and sumac, and a crisp garden salad. Another exquisite meal - the perfect ending to a truly memorable day.
Thursday, May 14, 2026 – Espíritu Santo/Caleta Partida Anchorage
As expected, it was a warm night in Bahía Falsa, though fortunately a light breeze kept us reasonably comfortable. We eased into the morning slowly, savoring coffee and the peaceful anchorage view while watching the arrival of a massive Carnival cruise ship in the distance. Eventually, the anchor came up, and the fishing lines went down. Chris and Phil — our resident fishing experts — were eager to hook some tasty sea morsels for the next meal.
Passing Balandra and Tecolote, there was little action, so we continued toward Espíritu Santo, our destination for the day. Along the way we spotted a sea turtle, a seal, dolphins, and a gorgeous schooner, but no fish — except for one crafty dorado that managed to escape Phil’s lure at the last second.
Rounding the island, the seas grew rougher and we admired the dramatic, rugged hillsides splashed in vivid shades of red and gray. In the distance, we could see various anchorages dotted with charter boats enjoying the spectacular scenery. Soon we arrived at Caleta Partida, a beautiful anchorage John had scouted ahead of time. As we began our approach, suddenly - fish on! Chris eagerly reeled in a spunky skipjack tuna. Not exactly our preferred catch, but certainly better than no fish, so in the cooler it went.
Entering the anchorage was somewhat confusing because this area is formed by a narrow channel where Isla Partida and Isla Espíritu Santo nearly meet, separated by only a small strip of land and a shallow waterway that can only be crossed by dinghy at high tide. From offshore, the waterway is completely hidden, though you can see boats anchored on the opposite side. We joined two other boats already tucked into the anchorage.
No sooner had we dropped the anchor than the wind arrived in full force, quickly building to 24 knots. Suddenly John questioned whether he had chosen the wrong anchorage after all. For several hours, the wind howled and Nirvana swung sharply from side to side, but after reviewing the evening and overnight forecast, we all agreed to stay put and ride it out.
At one point, a couple on a paddleboard from a nearby charter boat struggled desperately to paddle back to their mothership. The man had jumped into the water while the woman waved frantically, trying to get the captain’s attention for a dinghy pickup. Unfortunately, they were hidden behind Nirvana, making them invisible to the crew aboard the charter boat. I honked our horn and waved my arms wildly — still no response. We invited them to tie up alongside Nirvana and come aboard for a rest.
Then we noticed they had dropped something into the water. Assuming it was a GoPro, I jumped in to retrieve it, only to discover it was actually the handle to their paddle. Swimming back to the boat proved more challenging than expected due to the strong current — and unfortunately our jellyfish “friends” had returned, stinging me squarely on the knee.
The couple, Gabriela and Sebastian from Mexico City, were incredibly grateful for the rescue. They shared that they had visited Santa Barbara before and absolutely loved it.
Thankfully, our patience was rewarded. By 4:00 p.m. the wind finally eased, allowing us to lower the dinghy and explore the harbor. Heading toward the sandy spit, we passed a small fish camp and watched startled stingrays flutter beneath us through the crystal-clear turquoise water. Soon we located the narrow waterway separating the two islands and entered. It was far deeper than we had imagined, and crossing so effortlessly between the two islands by dinghy felt both surreal and delightfully decadent. Geologists believe that Espiritu Santo and Partida were once connected but later separated by erosion and tectonic activity.
Towering, jagged cliffs and cavernous rock formations surrounded us on both sides. Our first observation upon reaching the opposite anchorage was that it appeared significantly rougher and more exposed than our own.
On the way back to Nirvana, we stopped at the fish camp and inquired if they had any fish for sale. Unfortunately, like us, they had come up empty-handed. We continued exploring the large cove and white sand beaches by dinghy before motoring past another, much fancier fish camp. The elaborate construction and polished appearance were unlike anything we had encountered elsewhere in Mexico.
A nicely dressed man named Felix emerged and offered us two beautiful pargos (Mexican snapper). We immediately asked how he would like to be paid - beer, knives, cash? Smiling, he declined every offer and simply handed us the fish. Cheers erupted aboard Nirvana. Dinner was magically shaping up very nicely.
Chris tossed me one of the fish and I managed to catch it, proudly posing afterward with “the fish I caught.” Ha ha!
The next several hours became an all-out culinary production with Chef Chris firmly at the helm. Endless chopping, slicing, and prepping transformed into a decadent feast: skipjack ceviche and fresh pico de gallo for appetizers, followed by Asian-style pargo served alongside marinated sesame cucumbers. Every bite was delicious, and we ended the evening feeling immensely grateful for our unforgettable first day at Espíritu Santo.
Wednesday, May 13, 2026 – La Paz to Bahía Falsa Anchorage
We awoke to another warm morning in the harbor and spent the early hours tidying up and preparing for the arrival of our guests, Chris and Phil, who were flying in from LAX. Right on schedule, they arrived, made a quick provisioning stop at the market, and before long, we were dropping our very stiff and salty lines and motoring out toward Bahía Falsa. We’ll definitely need to clean those sun-soaked lines when we return to the harbor.
Just as we remembered, the anchorage was wide open and peaceful, with only four boats taking advantage of the calm weather. After settling in, we gathered for a classic “Sundowner,” complete with a generous charcuterie board and plenty of laughter as the sun slowly dipped lower in the sky.
Then Chris and Phil took over the galley, preparing a truly memorable dinner of perfectly cooked ribeye steaks, garlic broccoli, and Anaheim peppers, all paired with two gifts - bottles of Diatom and Rombauer Chardonnay. Needless to say, the crew had absolutely no complaints.
As the evening heat lingered, we ran the generator and air conditioning as long as possible, savoring every cool breath of air before finally turning out the lights and drifting off into dreamland aboard Nirvana.
Tuesday, May 12, 2026 - Welcome Back to La Paz!
Acclimating to boat life always takes a day or two. Even when securely tied in a slip rather than sailing offshore, it’s still a transition - especially at night. Every unfamiliar sound seems amplified: creaks and groans from the dock lines, fish nibbling at the hull, gentle boat motion, shifting temperatures, a different bed, or even fumbling to locate the bathroom in the dark. Sleep aboard has its own rhythm, and it takes time to settle back into it.
Morning brought the usual round of maintenance and chores that inevitably follow time away from the boat. We hired both a boat cleaner and a bottom cleaner to tackle the larger projects while John focused on reinstalling the modified rudder arm - a job that proved far more difficult than expected. In an effort to stay out of the way, I escaped for a walk along the Malecón. The waterfront was quiet in the growing morning heat, with only a scattering of diners lingering at outdoor cafés. I always enjoy admiring the animated bronze sculptures that celebrate the sea life, history, and spirit of La Paz.
Provisioning was also on the day’s agenda, so we hopped into a DiDi and headed to Chedraui - the store no one seems quite sure how to pronounce. The aisles were crowded, our shopping list felt endless, and perhaps the unfamiliar layout made the process seem even longer. Eventually, we returned to Nirvana, unloading our trusty Hulkin wheeled bag before gratefully retreating into the blessed relief of the boat’s air conditioning and escaping the oppressive 97-degree heat.
By 5:30 p.m., we sensed a slight break in the temperature and headed back out for another stroll along the Malecón, which had transformed completely from the quiet morning scene. Beyond the natural beauty of La Paz itself, the way people gather and interact here is equally beautiful. Young girls practiced volleyball on the beach while proud parents relaxed nearby. Other locals sat motionless with phones in hand, hoping to capture the sun’s glorious descent below the horizon. A group of elders assembled eagerly for a tai chi class while a middle-aged running club gathered nearby, preparing for an evening run. Clearly, the people of La Paz deeply cherish their town and genuinely enjoy sharing it with one another.
After quick showers back at the marina, we returned once again to the Malecón for dinner at Claro Fish Jr., which proudly claims to serve the “Best Seafood in Town.” Judging by the steady stream of local patrons, the claim may not be far off. With Maroon 5 playing in the background, the people-watching proved nearly as delicious as the meal itself.
April 16 - May 11, 2026 - Visit Home and Return to La Paz!
Our visit home to Santa Barbara was filled with joyful reunions and celebrations with friends and family. After my mom’s fall and hip injury in early March, I was especially grateful for the opportunity to spend meaningful time with my parents and family in South Pasadena. We even managed to sneak in an early Mother’s Day celebration together.
It was also wonderful to reconnect with harbor friends at SBYC and during Wet Wednesdays. As always, I cherished teaching my aqua classes and seeing familiar faces again. We also attended the annual Catalina Island Conservancy Ball with the Hathaways, where we met a delightful group of new friends and enjoyed a truly memorable evening.
Then, after a couple of postponed departures, we were finally ready to return to La Paz once again. Following an early-morning drive to Los Angeles, we were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to First Class on Alaska Airlines, which we took as a promising sign for the journey ahead.
La Paz greeted us with a very warm embrace, with temperatures soaring into the high 90s. Seeing Nirvana floating peacefully in the marina instantly filled us with happiness and brought us right back into la vie nautique. After unpacking nearly 200 pounds of boat parts, provisions, and a few t-shirts, we settled quickly back into our familiar routines. True to form, John immediately dove into boat projects, while I happily surrendered to a much-needed nap.
That evening, we wandered over to nearby Restaurante Anzuelo for an oceanfront seafood dinner — made even more enjoyable by the rare luxury of air conditioning.
The familiar sights, sounds, and rhythms of marina life felt like a true homecoming. Once again, we are filled with gratitude and excitement as we begin yet another chapter in this marvelous adventure.
